Which one to choose (between 2 Jonsereds)

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jpandriesse

jpandriesse

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Which one to choose (Jred 2149 or Jred 2054)

Good day all,

I got on offer for an Jonsered 2149 Turbo and an Jonsered 2054 Turbo, for roughly the same price.

The 2054 has a little bit more hp, with lower rpm (2600).
The 2149 has a slightly bigger engine (49,4 cubic cm, versus 49 cubic cm), runs a little bit more rpm (2700) and has slightly less hp (3.1 versus 3.5)

What would be the wiser choice. Anyone experiences with both saws?


Thanx,
Joris
 
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Scooterbum

Scooterbum

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Both pro saws. The 2054 is 53.5cc.
The 2149 is lighter .Difference in power you probably wouldn't notice.
I'd go with the 2149 since it's newer and parts would be easier to source.
What's condition of both of them?
 
SawTroll

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There were two different top ends used in the 2054 - the original one was a 53.2cc with a power rating of 3.5 hp, the late ones had a 48.7cc top end, with a power rating of 3.1 hp.

If you consider buying a 2054, it is important to find out which top end it has.
 
timmcat

timmcat

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2149 all the way, I've seen alot of problems here with oil tank failures on the 2051,54,55 series saws, the epoxy seal between the top half and bottom half of the case actually cracks and you end up with a perpetual leak. Until the 2153 became availabe here in the US, the 2149 was the best small saw Jred had.
 
moody
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moody

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You are right about the idle speeds.

Max power rpm would be around 9,000 on both saws, and max permitted rpm around 13,000.

I was just going off of my best results. I personally liked the 2149 but the 2054 really isn't much different. The only way to choose is to test them in the wood.
 
spike60

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I'm inclined to go with the 2149. Very underrated here due to the usual snobbery towards open port saws. :msp_rolleyes: I'd say it's equal in power to the "good" 2054. The later EPA 2054 was really a dog.

Then there's the parts issue. With the changeover in Jonsered distribution going on, I suspect that parts for non-current models will be hard to come by. Especially with this family of saws due to the fact that there were no Husky counterparts to these models.

The 2149, and other saws that used this top end, (early 2150, and Husky 351 and early 350), respond very well to ditching the base gasket and doing a muff mod.

EDIT: Didn't notice the OP lives in The Netherlands, so some of what I pointed out obviously doesn't apply. I'd still pick the 2149 though!
 
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jpandriesse

jpandriesse

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Thanks all for your suggestions.

I went for the 2149. Needs a few pull to get it running (5-8 times, is that normal?), but runs very well, nice aggressive response on the throttle etc. I'm happy with it :)


Cheers,
 
Homelite410

Homelite410

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Most of my Jonnys take 5... 3 to pop with choke on and the 5th to run.. ALOT depends on last use (yesterday, a week ago, a month, ect.)........ They better start in 3 compression strokes within 10 min of shut off... In the winter and when mine set a week at a time, it is usually 5. It doesnt bother me at all as long as YOU are in tune to YOUR saw.. Just my.02
 
SawTroll

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Thanks all for your suggestions.

I went for the 2149. Needs a few pull to get it running (5-8 times, is that normal?), but runs very well, nice aggressive response on the throttle etc. I'm happy with it :)


Cheers,

You chose the right saw.

How easy it starts may depend on the exact tune of the carb, but also on how long it has been sitting. You may try to move the L screw a tad out (like 1/16 to 1/8 turn), and see if that improves the starting.
 

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