chinese carburetor

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bluedxj

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i just bought a used husqvarna and when i got it home and started giving it a good look over i noticed the carb was pretty clean and new looking then i noticed it had china stamped on it. this cant be an original husqvarna carb right? is the china carb a bad thing should it be replaced? the saw runs and cuts like it should. i just dont want any long term damage done to it. also any pointers on how to set it properly with the hi and low screws? thanks.
 
err u no there will allways be long term problems with anything . these carbs are just built a little cheaper then oem . (better on the wallet to) . i would just run it for aslong as you can then replace it .
 
My experience of the Chinese "EMAS" carbs is they work about as well as the Walbros they copy. Walbro kits fit them.
 
I noticed the same thing today on my 2152. It seems to load up and stop running when you just let it idle. Runs great other than that. I've tried adjusting the carb, but it does it no matter what, so I'm probably going to order a carb kit for it. It was a pawn shop buy, so I don't really know the history of it. I had figured the Zama's were aftermarket, but they are apparently OEM on some saws.
 
ok so its not so bad ill just leave it alone. anyone have a how to on adjusting the hi and low screws or should i just not mess with those?
 
Thanks Nmurph, I'll check that out when I get around to it.
Maybe someone that knows more about carbs than me can explain what is going on when this happens. Rebuilding and cleaning the carb doesn't seem to correct the problem. The carbs will tune fine, hold a stable idle, but if sitting at idle they will slowly die. I have tried every possible combo of the L needle and idle set screw. A unique thing I have noted is that if I hold the tank handle the saw won't choke down. But if you let go of the handle it will choke down. The carbs act like they are pumping more fuel than the saw can burn at idle, but not being able to adjust it out with the L needle makes me wonder. Lowering the metering arm a touch will usually fix it.
 
Maybe someone that knows more about carbs than me can explain what is going on when this happens. Rebuilding and cleaning the carb doesn't seem to correct the problem. The carbs will tune fine, hold a stable idle, but if sitting at idle they will slowly die. I have tried every possible combo of the L needle and idle set screw. A unique thing I have noted is that if I hold the tank handle the saw won't choke down. But if you let go of the handle it will choke down. The carbs act like they are pumping more fuel than the saw can burn at idle, but not being able to adjust it out with the L needle makes me wonder. Lowering the metering arm a touch will usually fix it.

Sounds like you're describing my exact situation.
 
I've been fighting a 272xp that will tune when it's out of wood and die in the cut, as it turns out, the high speed needle is loose in the threads and sucking air. I ordered the over seas carb and will give it a try. Finally figured it out by putting pipe teflon on the needle and the saw cut great.
 
Setting the lever a bit lower or increasing the POP will lean out the idle a tad. Increasing the POP is like lowering the float in old style float carburettors, it takes more suction to pull the fuel up.

You can also nip a bit off the side of the throttle plate OPPOSITE the side of the cutaway. That will lean out the idle and also allow the 'backflow' up the intake at idle to bypass the idle port. Just be careful about taking too much off the throttle plate that you can't adjust the idle with the idle screw (take a bit off at a time and check it). The advantage of trimming the throttle plate is that you can keep (and even make it richer) the transition off of idle.
 
Since this thread is about Chinese carburettors, I thought I should mention my seven C3M carbs. One is an original Japanese Zama, two are Chinese Zamas off of 365s and 4 are Chinese copies of Chinese Zamas.

The Japanese Zama is off a 044 and is essentially a Walbro, it has the same simple jetting configuration of the Walbro. The other six Chinese C3Ms use the 'twin jet' metering system. The twin jet carbs are easy to set up as each function; idle, transition, max low speed circuit flow and high speed circuit flow, can be adjusted separately. The carbs allow you to dial in the carburetion with a minimum of compromise.

The only Zama of the seven carbs that I am not going to use is the original Japanese Zama. I am stripping the hardware off the carb to put on one of the Chinese twin jet carbs. That carb will be going on a project 029 of mine.

The four Chinese copies of the Chinese Zamas work the same as the Zamas. The only significant difference was that they came with too long a discharge nozzle and the pump diaphragm was a bit thicker. I didn't notice any difference in the operation of the carb with the slightly thicker diaphragm. I have repositioned the discharge nozzles so that they are only just appearing in the venturi.

I was given the four Chinese copies, but they are available cheaply off the internet for around $20. With a micro drill set and a pin vise, you can convert one of these cheap Chinese copies into a better performing carb than the one that came from the factory.

I think the Zama carbs got a bad name because they could be dialled in by the factory to please the EPA. However, just as it is easy to modify the carbs in to run on fumes, it is also easy to modify the carbs to pump some serious hydrocarbons.

I find it ironic that of the seven carbs, the only one I'm not going to use is the original Japanese one.
 
Is there any videos of doing these carb mods somewhere? This is info I'd love to learn.
 
Yeah, I'll put one together. I'd like to wait until I understand the extra air bleed circuit that Zama has hidden behind the main discharge nozzle. You can find it if you grind away some of the 'hump' behind the nozzle (I also have to find the optimum size hole for the air bleed).

If my suspicions are correct, the extra air bleed may make the carb very usable at part throttle. It should also help compensate for a too rich transition when you bump up the low speed circuit flow. Probably the best thing it might do is allow you to use the stock low speed needle instead of having to find another needle with a slower taper.

The extra air bleed has some potential, but I'm just starting to get around to working with it.

I've worked over one carb on a 372BB (77cc) and used .35mm on both jets (about .25mm was stock for both). That worked great for the torque, but the low speed needle only has about 1/4 turn of adjustment (the bigger jet really throws the air/fuel emulsion circuit out of kilter). I think I have found a slower taper needle that will work with a .35mm idle jet, but the extra air bleed circuit may fix it.

This next carb I've opened up the extra 'Torque Port' jet, which is an auxiliary jet that sits alone. I'm trying to see how far I can go before I've gone too far. It's all a work in progress, try something, test, try again, test - but I'm getting there.
 

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