Depth of face cut

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If I am wrong, I am sure WS will have no problem correcting me.
No need for correction.
A "snatch block" can be used in a dead-head set up... "snatch block" refers to a pulley that opens in some way to facilitate quick threading of the rope, cable, or whatever.
A "dead-head pulley" (snatch block or other) is attached to a non-movable anchor point (the dead-head) allowing a direction change. The biggest advantage is it allows a short rope/cable to pull a tall tree because it puts you out of the way of the fall.... and, if you're using a vehicle, it doesn't lift "up" on it and remove traction. I normally use a length of chain from the dead-head to the pulley... 99 times out of 100 the tree will fall directly on the pulley.
pull.jpg
 
The groove is 5/8", the diameter is 4", the side plates are 3/16" thick, overall length is 8", the diameter of the top hole is 2". I don't see why rope wouldn't work, although it may slip on the pulley more than wire rope would.

Thanks! 1/2" rope should work in there then.
 
Zogger, make sure the pulley doesn't have any sharp edges or too much side play - either one can mess up a rope. Cable as well but not as easily. Ron

Thanks. I haven't ordered anything yet, still looking at makes/models, etc. Most likely better off with one designed on purpose for rope, even if it costs more.
 
Thanks. sounds like I would have done it the exact same way. I guess you win some and lose some. Just trying to educamate myself hoping to prevent taking down the barb wire fence and letting all the cows out....


How hard would it be to take down a section of fence, say pull the post, and lay something heavy over the wire.

I'm all about pulling one if needed, but sometimes it is indeed quicker to pull the post, get the wire on the ground, drop the tree, and put the fence back up.


Unless you've got enough manpower and equipment, sometimes it's just more cost effective.
 
How hard would it be to take down a section of fence, say pull the post, and lay something heavy over the wire.

I'm all about pulling one if needed, but sometimes it is indeed quicker to pull the post, get the wire on the ground, drop the tree, and put the fence back up.


Unless you've got enough manpower and equipment, sometimes it's just more cost effective.
Or just wipe out the fence! Lol
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sunlover3/media/Special pictures/Trees/MOV02985.mp4.html?sort=3&o=2
 
May not be the right way but on small wood do the world famous sloping back cut to give yourself more room for the wedge. Never tried it on a back leaner but I use that method for normal trees. Back leaner I might be a little scared the wedge would split the tree out with the extra pressure caused by a back leaner
You are right it's not the right way.
 
You are right it's not the right way.
i normally refrain from commenting on falling trees since i am just slightly less dangerous than a 5 yr old when it comes to getting them on the ground but i run into plenty of 12-16" trees that once a face is in them and you start the back cut there isnt enough meat left in the tree for a wedge. sloping back cut was suggested by a timber cutter that came in the shop. longer cut gives more room for a wedge and bar to fit. im not cutting back leaners or trying to direct the fall with the wedge...just insuring the tree doesnt sit back and pinch a bar. i am open to suggestions or video if someone wants to post the correct way to do it.
 
fordf150, two good suggestions from page one:

On a back-leaner you ideally don't want a deep face in order to allow more hinge to support the necessary wedging. Your method will be fine until you break a hinge and it goes over backwards. You might try making the back cut first, get a wedge in, put in a 1/3rd depth open face, then keep driving the wedge/sawing the back cut until things go u'r way

Bore straight through the hinge from the back where the wedge will be. It can give you room if the wedge is bottoming out on the hinge. I hate smaller trees like that. No room to work for the most part. The back cut first works pretty good on them.

Ron
 
i normally refrain from commenting on falling trees since i am just slightly less dangerous than a 5 yr old when it comes to getting them on the ground but i run into plenty of 12-16" trees that once a face is in them and you start the back cut there isnt enough meat left in the tree for a wedge. sloping back cut was suggested by a timber cutter that came in the shop. longer cut gives more room for a wedge and bar to fit. im not cutting back leaners or trying to direct the fall with the wedge...just insuring the tree doesnt sit back and pinch a bar. i am open to suggestions or video if someone wants to post the correct way to do it.
Back cut first is the best suggestion I can give on wood that size. If they're near balanced then you could get away with the sloping back cut. If you need to push it don't use it as it puts more pressure on the hinge and can break it before you're ready.
 
I will try that. Never thought of cutting back cut first. I am just starting to learn and trying not to kill myself in the process. Trial and error plus reading here is my teacher. I don't slope the back cut and wedge it to push it over or control the fall direction. Just keep a balanced tree from setting back down on the bar. Never tried to wedge a tree over with it and as I said if you do I imagine the tree would split out or hinge would break
 
How hard would it be to take down a section of fence, say pull the post, and lay something heavy over the wire.

I'm all about pulling one if needed, but sometimes it is indeed quicker to pull the post, get the wire on the ground, drop the tree, and put the fence back up.


Unless you've got enough manpower and equipment, sometimes it's just more cost effective.

Well, the cows are on the other side of the fence and this is the time of year that the cows come running when they hear a vehicle of any kind. They think I'm bringing breakfast lunch and dinner. They usually crowd up directly across the fence from me the whole time I'm cutting.
 
Btw, thanks again to everyone for all the suggestions. Really helpful. Think I'll check into the snatch block idea and get me a throw weight. Sounds like I could get some of the bigger ones and leaners I had to leave earlier.
 
I will try that. Never thought of cutting back cut first. I am just starting to learn and trying not to kill myself in the process. Trial and error plus reading here is my teacher. I don't slope the back cut and wedge it to push it over or control the fall direction. Just keep a balanced tree from setting back down on the bar. Never tried to wedge a tree over with it and as I said if you do I imagine the tree would split out or hinge would break
Cut a wedge off so it is about the same thickness as your bar.
 
I posted about it before, not ashamed to post epic fails..had a nice tulip polar, but leaning towards a pond. whereas the other direction, once felled, I could back right up to it, easy score..so I am gonna face cut it, and then wedge it over. Almost got it, but not quite, it fell the way it wanted to go anyway.

It was rather..exciting...

Any number of wrong-o moves. First, shoulda just let it go the way it wanted and drug it out with some equipment and chains. Made the face cut wrong (that part not sure of, too shallow, not deep enough??). Underestimated the amount of force needed sledging the wedges in to move a big heavy tree. I needed more grunt than I had/have I guess. Stuff like that.

There was nothing the other direction to attach to close by to hook up a comealong, and don't have enough longer stronger whatevers, chain/rope, etc that I would have trusted. So, I wanted to try and wedge it. I had four wedges in it and it still went the direction of the lean.

I swear I saw that on youtube.....
 
Well, the cows are on the other side of the fence and this is the time of year that the cows come running when they hear a vehicle of any kind. They think I'm bringing breakfast lunch and dinner. They usually crowd up directly across the fence from me the whole time I'm cutting.
I hate cutting with an audience!
 

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