Want a 14" Limbing/Demolition saw

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I store it ready to go it never gives me any issues it's really well balanced top handle lightweight I usually only use one hand to operate it with the 3/8 safety chain on it it's never even offered to kick it is underpowered though when my warranties up I'm gonna take my Dremel to the intake and exhaust ports and open up the muffler some I'd like to get 3.5 hp or better out of it
 
Looked at:

The Earthquake 38xx saws at Menard's. $139

The 14" was the lightest saw I picked up all night. 11% in store and an existing rebate for $15 gets the price down around $110. Beyond the sketchy rough cast plastic it wasn't too badly designed of a saw. I want to run it but...

Husky 240. $219

Impression: dang heavy for what it is. Build quality that doesn't really suggest the husky name. I really like my Rancher 460 this is just nowhere near the same caliber of saw. It made me wonder if I could switch sprockets and fit a 14" bar and 3/8 chain on a 435 rancher which was lighter and better built but over $300. The mounting pattern is not too different.

Echo cs-400. $300 with case bar oil and hat. I really liked the deal and was tempted and almost left with the saw.

Nicely built but seems disappointingly heavy with the 18" I really want to slap a 14" on it and try it like i want to use it...

Still on the fence, wiring my house so won't be sawing for a few weeks yet.
 
I have an lightly used Efco 40 cc, thinking the model # is MT 4000 if I remember right. 52dl, 14" bar,.050 picco chain I think would fill your niche very well. Strong lightweight saw, good power to weight ratio. If you're interested I can take some pics.
The last generation of John Deere Chainsaws were Efco's in Green. They have a good reputation, made in Italy.
Google Efco to find dealers, some here I believe or I believe if you know what JD interchanges, a JD dealer can get your parts if needed.
I have a smaller Efco I use for 1 of my beater saws.
 
Stephen, Ouch, 330 bucks for that little Tanaka critter! Must be a great saw?

Baily's had them for half that. I bought mine very lightly used locally from a guy who got it from Baily's for $100 with a new extra chain. It very well may be worth $330. The guys who have some run time on them seem to like them a lot. It is my favorite small saw. Only time will tell if it is equal to my 015L but it feels like it weighs half as much and it balances much better. It is made in Japan and the build quality is very nice. It feels like a feather in my hands. This is the thread about them.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/tanaka-3351-from-baileys.260975/
 
I have a 46cc poulan pro that I have used for everything nasty for many years, and I too like the 14-inch bar but mine is .325.

The one I have is a 295 but the 4620s and variants show up on craigslist regularly for about $40, and most of them -- PP, green ones or sears, have the 3/8 sprocket so you could use your old bar and go.
 
Earthquake CS38xx. It is a RedMax G3800 clone with a partial metal chassis - bar studs mount into the casting. Very light. Takes the same bars though I'm not sure about drive link count. Not worth much financially which is a benefit given the abuse it will get.

I suspect you will find that not much will hold up to that duty better than that Poulan.
poulan been run hard and wont give up light 46cc pulls a 20 inch just fine.
20150225_170329.jpg Im
 
poulan been run hard and wont give up light 46cc pulls a 20 inch just fine.
View attachment 425183 Im
Yes, I know. My ported 2775 is a blast, and you can convert them to 3/8 lo pro with a common Wild Thing sprocket.

However, given the duty that was described in the OP I didn't think it was a good choice. mainly becasue the A/V springs are weak. If you don't beat on it they are fine, but it sounded like it was in for some rough service. Also, the engine mounting bolts tend to vibrate out.
 
Yes, I know. My ported 2775 is a blast, and you can convert them to 3/8 lo pro with a common Wild Thing sprocket.

However, given the duty that was described in the OP I didn't think it was a good choice. mainly becasue the A/V springs are weak. If you don't beat on it they are fine, but it sounded like it was in for some rough service. Also, the engine mounting bolts tend to vibrate out.
No problem with mine. Loc tite once and this saw gets used tank after tank been trying to blow it up but wont let loose in the 5 years i been using it. The carlton chain was the ticket on this saw. Its all husky under the covers. Consumer grade husky but still runs like a champ.
 
No problem with mine. Loc tite once and this saw gets used tank after tank been trying to blow it up but wont let loose in the 5 years i been using it. The carlton chain was the ticket on this saw. Its all husky under the covers. Consumer grade husky but still runs like a champ.
Actually it's all Poulan, including the covers! I've fixed the bolt problem with mine too, but if you look on eBay you'll see many of them with bent A/V springs from being pulled when bound. The one that bolts to the upper right of the cylinder is commonly stretched, and the one at the rear where the handle attaches is at a right angle with screws that thread into plastic. It's inherently weak - I've replaced the screws with through bolts.
 
Actually it's all Poulan, including the covers! I've fixed the bolt problem with mine too, but if you look on eBay you'll see many of them with bent A/V springs from being pulled when bound. The one that bolts to the upper right of the cylinder is commonly stretched, and the one at the rear where the handle attaches is at a right angle with screws that thread into plastic. It's inherently weak - I've replaced the screws with through bolts.
Me too and a nyloc nut on the rear handle. To make av springs stiffer i have been thinking of putting a straw through them and filling the voids between straw and spring with rtv then heat shrink over them for better control for bore cuts
 
Actually it's all Poulan, including the covers! I've fixed the bolt problem with mine too, but if you look on eBay you'll see many of them with bent A/V springs from being pulled when bound. The one that bolts to the upper right of the cylinder is commonly stretched, and the one at the rear where the handle attaches is at a right angle with screws that thread into plastic. It's inherently weak - I've replaced the screws with through bolts.
Part in mine like the oiler and a few other parts have the husky brand casted in but i know my covers are poulan molds
 
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