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Go to ag scrap yard and IH planter frame. That's what our big 5x30 one is , works good on 3pt of tractor.


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Good idea. I know a retired farmer with a nice 40 year old Ford 4 or 6 bottom plow that is like new. Will have to see what dad wants for it. Already sold the tractors. Always stored inside.
 
Some of those plow beams where high tensile. So I've been told. Don't know how much difference that would make?


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This plow has a 11ft 4" x 6" × 3/16 main beam. Ford 142 4 bottom plow.
 
I prefer tie rod cylinders, much stronger.


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When I did some asking around which to use for my splitter, I found a guy that was going to do some cylinder work for me, and he suggested a welded cylinder, because less flex and it would take the abuse of being on a splitter. Just what he told me, I'm passing it on. I guess it depends on wedge design too, how much pressure you will actually use. The thinner and sharper, the less pressure and more cutting you will do, as to splitting open to a more blunt wedge design.
 
When I did some asking around which to use for my splitter, I found a guy that was going to do some cylinder work for me, and he suggested a welded cylinder, because less flex and it would take the abuse of being on a splitter. Just what he told me, I'm passing it on. I guess it depends on wedge design too, how much pressure you will actually use. The thinner and sharper, the less pressure and more cutting you will do, as to splitting open to a more blunt wedge design.

I agree with the wedge design.
After using my splitter with a blunt wide wedge versus the thin knive like wedge on SS,takes less power and stress on things to cut it than spread it.
 
Letting the pile dry. Took a week off from wood then went camping memorial weekend. Got the splitting area picked up. Put the cover back on the big conveyor. Last week split and stacked two cord of Chinese Elm. Should burn good in boiler. Started working on the big round near cement pad.

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Picked up cylinder on CL

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4.5 bore 30 stroke and 3.5 shaft.

Installed bigger motor on super split HD and change the pushers back to OEM. The racks have not came out since the change back to oem pusher blocks.

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Plus I think it rained every day last week.
 
I still can't fathom the greatest of that pile!! Just awesome!

What ya making with the big cylinder? That looks like a beast!!

Curious as to why the different pusher blocks caused the racks to come out? I did see you had modified them. I thought they were just to get closer to the wedge, but maybe there was other differences.
 
Doug the cut/split site sure looks a LOT better than when we last saw it!
Seems like a silly thought, but could the extra blocks have added enough extra weight to throw the balance off and cause the racks to extend further than designed?
 
Doug the cut/split site sure looks a LOT better than when we last saw it!
Seems like a silly thought, but could the extra blocks have added enough extra weight to throw the balance off and cause the racks to extend further than designed?
I think the distance from the pivot bolt behind the pusher pad makes the difference.

The idea was to get the pusher closer to the wedge. It is 1.75 inches from the wedge when extended. Which is more than the factory spec.


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I think the distance from the pivot bolt behind the pusher pad makes the difference.

The idea was to get the pusher closer to the wedge. It is 1.75 inches from the wedge when extended. Which is more than the factory spec.


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Looks like you can gain 1.5" of length from drilling and taping new holes in the pusher plate pivot bar and making a slug to fill the gap so the bolts don't have to carry the load in shear.
 
It did help the SS splitters split stringy woods like Ash and Elm. But the rack could be forced down to long and the rack would go to far and jamb. The ideal lenght of the extension would be 1/2 to 1 inch. It is worse on the special edition splitter. It would become frustrating when it would almost split the entire piece.

Looks like you can gain 1.5" of length from drilling and taping new holes in the pusher plate pivot bar and making a slug to fill the gap so the bolts don't have to carry the load in shear.

Sounds like a good idea. See if I can pull it off. Drilling and tapping. I am for trying and breaking things. In collage we would call it the smoke test. If you turn the switch and nothing smokes or burn up its a good thing.
 
In collage we would call it the smoke test. If you turn the switch and nothing smokes or burn up its a good thing.
I've done that a lot. Always sucks when you let the special smoke out! Usually stinks too!

I've found that 24VDC smoke doesn't like 480VAC smoke either! Put a buger on my insulated screw driver too...dammit! LoL
 
I've found that 24VDC smoke doesn't like 480VAC smoke either! Put a buger on my insulated screw driver too...dammit! LoL

Oh I know. I needed new leads for my Fluke VOM.

Picked up a 34 hp Kubota motor yesterday. Today I picked up a 6 x 8 x 1/4 A500 tube beam for a scrap build.
 
Holy crap! 34hp for a splitter motor?? How many GPM you planning on running, 50+? :surprised3:

Sounds like a score of a beam. I think my old splitter's tube was close to that size. I do see that splitter is on someone's Facebook page now. I should get royalities! Wayne should too, cause the back of his Tahoe is in the pic. :laugh:

Be sure to post progress pics Doug!!
 

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