And who thinks their battery chainsaw is more stall resistant than any of their gasoline ones? That says corded electric and some battery. Kind of curious if that battery clause is for something that has not hit the market yet.
A gasoline motor has very little torque at low rpms, so when the fibres in a pair of chaps clog up and slow down a gas powered saw, the lack of torque will keep the saw from chewing through them. But electric motors (battery or corded) have a great deal of torque at low rpm and might have enough to work through the bunched up fibres and keep going.And who thinks their battery chainsaw is more stall resistant than any of their gasoline ones? That says corded electric and some battery. Kind of curious if that battery clause is for something that has not hit the market yet.
A gasoline motor has very little torque at low rpms, so when the fibres in a pair of chaps clog up and slow down a gas powered saw, the lack of torque will keep the saw from chewing through them. But electric motors (battery or corded) have a great deal of torque at low rpm and might have enough to work through the bunched up fibres and keep going.
As for HP ratings and comparisons between gas and electric, gas hp rating is achieved while revving the motor, while electric might be rated by measuring current. A lot of manufacturers of electric equipment will inflate their hp numbers by measuring curremt at startup, which will be very high, but have no relation to maximum running horsepower. Therefore a 3hp gas saw might easily outcut a 4hp electric saw due to how the ratings are achieved.
I think they would get up to full speed instantly, so there is no centrifugal clutch that would work. However, I would hope that all of these electric chainsaws are using a motor with a brake, so if you let go of the trigger it stops right away. I would say that might even be safer than a clutch on a gas saw.Wow! I never knew that. I guess chaps jam up a clutch, but electric saws don't have a clutch. Good to know.
I'm surprised there hasn't been chaps developed for electric saws. Or electric saws with safety features to use current chaps.
Touche, maybe combine the hp or torque rating with a speed to reduce that inflation. But the marketing teams would never let that one slide...A gasoline motor has very little torque at low rpms, so when the fibres in a pair of chaps clog up and slow down a gas powered saw, the lack of torque will keep the saw from chewing through them. But electric motors (battery or corded) have a great deal of torque at low rpm and might have enough to work through the bunched up fibres and keep going.
As for HP ratings and comparisons between gas and electric, gas hp rating is achieved while revving the motor, while electric might be rated by measuring current. A lot of manufacturers of electric equipment will inflate their hp numbers by measuring curremt at startup, which will be very high, but have no relation to maximum running horsepower. Therefore a 3hp gas saw might easily outcut a 4hp electric saw due to how the ratings are achieved.
There was a 090G 1” impact on here a while back......Ok, it takes the M18 Fuel battery. I have 4 or 5 Milwaukee M18 power tools; very nice stuff. If only need the saw and not the battery or charger, you can knock at least $50 off the purchase price.
Frankly, I'd like to go in the other direction -- instead of going towards battery power, maybe we should power more hand tools with 2 stroke engines? I already have an ancient Jonsered XD set up for drilling. I'd also love to have a 60cc 3/4" impact wrench. One of the Homelite circular saws. A 70cc Sawzall would be a lot of fun, too.
The assumption is of course that you would let up on the trigger when things go south....
Not safer, as oldfortyfive notes. If there is an issue chances are most users won't let go until its too late.I think they would get up to full speed instantly, so there is no centrifugal clutch that would work. However, I would hope that all of these electric chainsaws are using a motor with a brake, so if you let go of the trigger it stops right away. I would say that might even be safer than a clutch on a gas saw.
I've never witnessed a saw accident (knock on wood), so I wasn't sure how the chaps work. I thought thet were just extra thick fabric that allowed you a little extra time to let go of the trigger. which is why I was thinking that an electric brake would work.Not safer, as oldfortyfive notes. If there is an issue chances are most users won't let go until its too late.
The chainbrake mechanism could be adapted to be a kill switch in case of kickback but other than that there is little to stop the chain but the users reflexes.
Electric motors make full power across the rpm band, a gas motor doesn't. When the gas saw hits the chaps, the fibers instantly slow the saw and the motor stalls, usually ending the event before a major injury can occur. An electric motor will cut into the chaps and might slow down some but even at low rpms its making the same power so it will keep going. An electric motor won't ever stall like a gas motor either, it will keep trying to turn at full power until you actually shut it off. There is little chance that an average user will be able to react to an accident in time to prevent the saw from doing at least some damage, no more than if a gas saw was being used with no chaps .
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