Never run a chain saw at anything other than idle or WOT, they aren't designed to run at part throttle.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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Never run a chain saw at anything other than idle or WOT, they aren't designed to run at part throttle.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
395's were never taught how to plunge cut. The 661's get mandatory plunge cut 101 classes before leaving the factory.
+1. I asked the same question several years ago, got the same answer and it solved the problem the next time I did it. Once the nose is buried that is no more problem.
You are trying to straighten up (bring the bar up level) before you have t he nose buried.
Probably true. I 'think" i start the same way I start every cut. Almost instant full throttle.
I just fell one of the worst leaners I have every done. About a 30* angle from the horizontal. Bore cut in, down leaving about 1/4 the diameter, then cut upwards leaving about 1/3 diameter, pull saw out and cut the 'trigger'. Top cut almost met the bore cut before the tree came down. I had cheated though - applied a chain tightened with a load binder to avoid a barber chair effect. One whale of a "Snap" as it tried to chair just before the top cut finished.
Except when finishing a bucking cut where you will have to cut a bit of dirt. There i just baby through the last little bit by blipping the throttle.
woodchip rookie
Addicted to ArboristSite
ALL of my saws musta missed the class.
James Miller
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Even my t handle got plunge cutting 101.Link to a thread on terminology: 'bore cut' / 'plunge cut', with a couple of videos:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bore-cut-versus-plunge-cut.321833/
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bore-cut-versus-plunge-cut.321833/
Philbert
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I stopped when randymac said there two different things. I hear he's killed a few trees in his day.
That was a failure: Only the first 10-15 seconds recorded. I'll try again the next time I'm splitting....or maybe even bucking the tree I have down now.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Well that rules out chain types and bar nose widths. So I'm guessing youtube university for you. Won't take you long to get the hang of it. I find the worst is when plunging into a rip cut as opposed to a cross cut.
Edit- Are you setting your rakers pretty deep on all your chains? If so, can you try a full comp loop with a tame raker setting?
woodchip rookie
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oh dear....that pic makes my face hurt. No way would I try that with a top handle. I must be retarded.
woodchip rookie
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have all full comp/full chisel with standard .025" depth filed into the depth guage.
woodchip rookie
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Its just me. I'll try again.
James Miller
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Your not retarded it takes practice. You'll get it. I did a lot of horizontal practice before I ever tried one with the saw vertical.
woodchip rookie
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I think I would feel safer trying it virticle because your wrist is right behind the chain brake. When you flip the saw horizontal your arm isnt behind the brake. But then again, horizontal makes the saw kick away from you instead of at your face.
One thing to think about when you actually get the bar in the wood; when you bore into a tree next to a face cut it's best to practice with the face cut on your left/the bottom of the bar towards the notch. If you have the top of the bar on the notch side it will creep closer and closer to hinge.
Posted the video below a few times here, but it can be helpful.
At 3 seconds you can see I'm cutting with the bottom of the tip, toward the end of the three second mark you can see me lift the back of the saw up slightly, at this point I start to plunge the bar into the log never letting up on a slight downward pressure(as the tip will want to rise as it's trying to kick back) and also pushing the saw into the log with consistent pressure listening to the rpms and keeping them up as you will need them high when the tip comes out the other side. If you let up on the slight downward pressure the bar will rise in the cut and the teeth will grab on the top of the bar(even when you are in way past the tip) causing the saw to kick back and since it has nowhere up to go it will push you back as it's trying to come out of the hole this can hurt if you have your junk positioned behind the saw
(so don't do that! 
).Making a bore/plunge cut is something you commit to and then you do it, you need to be 100% committed, not half way.
When learning I suggest you start on the top of a log like in the video and then cut down and in/back at a slight angle as this keeps the top of the tip and the top of the bar off the wood as much as possible which will keep the chance of kickback down. Do that a few times as that is kind of what you do when starting a bore cut and it helps build confidence.
Hope this helps, if not I'll come show you
.I agree.
Chain type and how they are sharpened can make a big difference
.
