Porting

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Huskybill

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When porting we open up the ports and raise or lower them don’t forget to chamfer the sharp edge created when we go from the port into the cylinder. I wrap a piece of fine grit paper on my finger tip and sand the edge of the port to the cylinder bore chamfer it. Remove all sharp edges and corners so the piston ring will pass over them and not break the piston ring. The action is a must do when porting.

New to porting or want to port take note.
 
Why doesn't it suck? This is your thread to share. I just threw up some dumb characters hoping this goes somewhere.
 
If this topic sucks why do you post here?
If someone in your porting thread says it sucks why not show them why it doesn't? I'm not gonna lie Bill, you've posted a lot of useless **** but hinted that you might have some insight. I have none but I'm ready to learn.
 
Here’s the Dremel tools.


https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Sanding-Including-Sleeves-Mandrels/dp/B0785HYTGB

https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Grinding-Polishing-Accessories-Attachment/dp/B00XJINV42

These are the best ones I found so far for the smaller ports.

https://www.amazon.com/eBoTrade-Pieces-Tungsten-Carbide-tungsten/dp/B00JL4F1SM

You can use a car polishing red rough compound first, after drum sanding, the white polishing compound next, then the simi chrome polish last. The simi chrome polish is used for eliminating matching marks in plastic injection dies.

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E
 

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On the-45-62cc Chinese saws I ported adding a larger carb and intake did way more than porting as the stock intake was tiny.
No 2 saws have the same issues porting wise, you need to find out what your saw model needs ported/modded before porting it. A lot of times opening up the intake/exhaust and making them nice and smooth does next to nothing as it's the transfers holding the saw back. The quick easy gains are from ditching the base gasket and opening up the muffler on most all saws, there's a reason most guys stop there.
On the plus side between forums and youtube you can useally find someone who has ported a saw just like what your looking to port.

I totally copied someone else's work when I ported my Chinese saws. The last one I did works the best and I did the least work to it, my joncutter 5800, I posted about only adding the carb/intake to it which made a huge difference but have since ported it, which took me an hour total.
I didn't grind much at all, I opened up the lower transfers, knife edging the divider, widened the exhaust then I took the thickness of the base gasket off the top of the exhaust port and the piston by the transfers as I cant grind the top of the transfers worth a dam with my Dremel, I never touched the intake port as porting it doesn't help on that saw I also didn't shorten the pistons intake skirt. I ditched the base gasket so it has 20psi more compression, this helps just as much as the porting imo.
I could grind more making the intake and exhaust ports bigger/smoother but im at the limit of what the smallish transfers will flow so there's no point and no way to make the transfers better other than what I did. I've posted in threads about those Chinese saws that the 45 will rev the best if you want a screaming chinese saw as the small transfer ports, carb and intake hold the bigger ones back, I can swap the carb/intake but cant make a bigger cylinder so there's more room for the transfers lol.
 
Your polishing reason is a bit off; the reason for a textured surface is to create a flow disruption near the surface.

If correct, you create micro eddys that actually contribute to speeding up the airflow. This the basis of the sharkskin effect and why they can swim as fast as they do.

In a perfectly polished surface you have a drag or friction area that slows down your airflow.

Newer carb bores are almost always perfectly polished to counteract oxidation, corrosion and the collection of fuel resins. It is a tradeoff for reliability and ease of servicing.
 
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