what method do you use to tune your saw?

[kevin711]

I've found three different ways and I've tried them all with similar results.

1 - run saw at full throttle and adjust LOW side carb for fastest speed. Done.

2 - turn low side screw lean till it starts to die, mark spot, then rich till it starts to die, mark spot. Set the low side half way between these two points.

3 - adjust low side till you get max rpm, then richen until you just hear a drop in rpm. Done.

Personally I really like adjusting to get fastest speed using low screw on carb at full throttle. Obviously adjust high side to set correct rpm as well.

Which method do you use?

 

[Franny K]

I generally leave the screws alone. Perhaps I am fortunate that the saws I have work using this technique. For those that do not see below.
The low speed screw is adjusted for smooth acceleration off idle.
The high one is adjusted in (leaner) it goes faster to a point and then back it out a bit.

 

[ammoaddict]

Have only done 2 and 3, usually do 3.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[motorhead99999]

Never done 1. Usually do 2 but sometimes 3. I’ll have to give 1 a shot sometime

 

[TheAMMIXman]

I actually am not confident in my ability to tune a saw so I play it safe. I try to start out with whatever stock carb settings are for the saw if available. That of course typically does not provide optimal results. In my amatureness I think I basically do two things.

1.)After using “stock settings” to get the saw running or to try to get it running, once it’s running I usually do low side first to try to get it to stay idling. I do the lean out then richen the low then put it in the middle, then richen it a tad for safety. If it idles great, if not I may crack the idle set screw/throttle plate stop, then redo the lean rich middle back it out a hair method again because I changed the amount of air passing over that jet at idle. Aside from trying to keep it on at this time I’m also trying to get it to idle as high as possible without spinning the chain AND without leaning it out to much.

2.)Then I chase max rpm adjusting the high side needle while watching a tach(but the lean rich middle err on the side of caution method can still apply here as well). Even with a tac I err on the side of caution by a few hundred rpm.

Then if the saw idles good, accelerates quickly with no hesitation and cuts wood good I may be done.

If it hesitates when throttling up and I know the carb and the rest of the saw is good to go I have a redo of step one but the new end goal is to get rid of the hesitation and keep it idling well without leaning it out, not necessarily the highest safe idle anymore(although that typically works well for me initially). If I redo step one I recheck step number two as well.

Now let all the pros get on here and tell us all the easy ways.

 

[lone wolf]

Stock setting on the H and L , start then let the saw idle and see how it sounds and if it stays running and don't stall. If stalls you need to adjust slightly richer or leaner,usually richer . Then turn the H and with a digital tach set at the right rpm for that saw. s

simple and if that dont work you aint doing it right or the carb or saw is flawed.

 

[Huskybill]

I was taught by my dealer to adjust the carbs on any saw well older saw no new carbs.

First adjust the idle using the rpm screw
Second turn in the low speed jet till she almost stalls then back out 1/2 turn.
Third adjust your high rpm.

Cold weather doesn’t seem to affect the high rpm. The low speed jet needs to be re-adjusted for cold weather. Around mid October on the colder mornings the saw will tell us when to re-adjust.

 

[Pioneer]

Low speed: Needle set for highest idle speed, then turned out just a hair to prevent bog off idle and stalling when the saw is cold.
High speed: Needle set so it bounces back and fourth between two and four stroke sound under no load at max throttle.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I use lean drop off tuning, but I’m still learning to perfect it. I’m close each time, normally I just need to richen out the L some

 

[Brent Nowell]

I pretty much do what lone wolf does. I tach it at the FSM recommended high speed setting and start cutting. My 372 and 395 have mounted tachs to make this process real easy. I matter where I go.

I rarely ever have to set the L jet once it’s already been done. Just my experience is all

 

[catbuster]

If the saw accelerates well off idle and the chain isn’t spinning while at idle, meaning the throttle stop is set correctly, I’m happy.... So I guess 1?

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Dont really understand #1. #2 and #3 are pretty close since max rpm at idle should be about the middle of being to rich so it starts to die and being to lean so it start to die. I usually end up 1/8 to 1/4 turn more rich on the L carb adjustement than the fastest idle speed, then i may reduce the idle screw a bit prevent chain from moving, around 2600 to 2800 rpm, depending on age of clutch springs on my older saws and the size of the saw. I only run saw at full throttle out of wood for adjusting the H side to four stroke, not the L side.

 

[Old2stroke]

Very confusing post. The OP seems to be fooling around with the low speed mixture screw to achieve some result at full throttle, max RPM.

 

[lone wolf]

Very confusing post. The OP seems to be fooling around with the low speed mixture screw to achieve some result at full throttle, max RPM.

Right.

 

[full chizel]

Adjust the idle and L so it smoothly goes to WOT without hesitating and comes back to idle smoothly.
Adjust the H until it sounds good in the cut and i’m done. Some guys are way to picky and constantly turning screws to the get the last .001 on the stopwatch.

My only adjustable saw now is the Echo 2511T. The rest are AT/MT.

 

[jltrent]

I use a tach to set max at 500 rpms under max rating and on the low side set for best trigger response and once that is accomplished set the idel screw for around 2800-3000 idles speed. Been doing it for years and hads lots of feedback how impressed the saws ran and longevity of them. YOu want a mix of chain speed vs. torque... Fast chain speed is worthless if you don't have torque and also an over lean saw is no good in the junk pile ready for a rebuild.

 

[Stem450Husky]

I adjust the L for solid idle & acceleration, adjust the H for WOT burble (usually stay a little rich), make a long cut or 2 to see if it four strokes & adjust the H if needed. This method has worked for me for the last 10+ years or so & haven't burned one up yet.

 

[rarefish383]

"Give it to the mechanic, we don't pay hourly's 20 bucks an hour to do stuff they don't know how to do, and then pay mechanics to sit around all day because the dumb azz hourly's are trying to do the mechanics job!"

That's what my Dad used to say about trying to tune saws on the job. I kind of got into that mind set and always sent my saws to the shop. Now I'm 64 with so many saws, it seems I'll never get them all tuned, and I'm woefully inept at doing carb work. But, I'm trying to learn. Heading out to the garage now to tinker with the Echo 280E I picked up yesterday.

 

[dmb2613]

Well, you can not post and folks may think you are nuts or you can post then they no you are nuts lol

 

[Harvdog]

when tuning my own saws at home i always looked for the factory setting for example 1.25 turns out both screws then focus on idle then move to high end. sometimes adjusting one will f**k up the other but thats when it gets fun... or annoying lol, finding that "sweet" spot between both screws. but i have a few logs in my back yard that ill set the saw on while adjusting then burry the bar and do top end. i tried a tach and it was cool but i always forget it and do it by ear.