Hello All, looking to get my older model Stihl 026 running again after years in the shed. It was my Dad's saw and is at least 30 years old. In good shape and I have time to work on it as I just retired! Is a shop manual available? Did not see one in this section. Thanks!
Stihl 026 - older model
- Thread starter drewd
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Where in the mASShole are you located? I might not be too far away unless you're near bASStun.
These should get you started
Where in the mASShole are you located? I might not be too far away unless you're near bASStun.
These should get you started
The 026 is one of the better Stihl designs, easy to work on, and parts are available everywhere. Beyond nostalgia, the saw is worth making operational.
Rubber parts, crankshaft seals, and a gummed up carburetor are areas that will likely need attention after 30 years. The good news is that if its been in storage that long the blight of alcohol contain fuel may have been avoided.
Rubber parts, crankshaft seals, and a gummed up carburetor are areas that will likely need attention after 30 years. The good news is that if its been in storage that long the blight of alcohol contain fuel may have been avoided.
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
I bought a used 026 a couple years ago and had it completely gone thru by my Stihl guy. It was expensive to have repaired, but i don't regret it at all. Cuts great and is easy on this old man weight wise. Everyone should have one in their arsenal.
Thanks! I'm in Central MA just west of 495 in Groton. Thanks again!
Well, I have used it a bit so it did see some of the new fuels. Would not start so I replaced the spark plug, carb boot and fuel line and adjusted with a tach. Also, removed the muffler and cleaned the screen (which was in good shape and not to dirty). Piston looked great when I hade the muffler off. It ran great but after sitting for several months it doesn't want to fire up. I'm going to check for spark and if spark try and clean the carb. Can the carbs be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled? Or should I get a carb kit before trying? Or new carb? I now run non ethanol gas in my small engines but just for the last year so thinking the ethanol fuel plugged up the carb??
That's too close to bASStun for me.
If E10 sat in it might have the E10 snot inside. I'd try fresh fuel first, sometimes the crap will run through, but don't push a saw running like crap until you know the cause.
It's a roll of the dice if the carb comes apart without tearing gaskets. A complete kit is only $10-15 and good to have on hand.
Coat gaskets with some vasoline when you put things back together, then they won't stick next time coming apart.
Does the saw have both Hi and Lo settings? If not look into getting a WT-194 carb
i'm in harvard if ya need some help...thats a good saw.
I would venture over to eBay where you can purchase a new WT-194 carburetor located in NJ for less than $10.
There is plenty of discussion of the crap parts from China, but my experience is that the carburetors are so close to OEM, you won''t notice the difference.
Additionally, if you bought a carburetor from your local Stihl dealer it would be manufactured in China.
Some work all right but others are duds. There is no quality control over the back door under the counter manufacturers. The OEM carbs are built under licensing where they have to meet standards.
James Davis
ArboristSite Lurker
I bought a used 026 several years ago. It ran very well with plenty of power, but got hard to start. Stihl dealer replaced the carb with no real improvement. I used it that way for a year or two and took it to the dealer again. "Mechanic" said carb needed replacing again. I let them do it. When I picked it up, I asked the mechanic to start it. I'd say it took 30 pulls to get it going! I was disgusted, but paid the bill and won't go back.
Recently, I shot some fuel through the spark plug hole, replaced the plug, and the saw started on the first pull ( but quit after a few seconds). Seems like a fuel supply problem to me, but I don't know enough to know where to look.
Recently, I shot some fuel through the spark plug hole, replaced the plug, and the saw started on the first pull ( but quit after a few seconds). Seems like a fuel supply problem to me, but I don't know enough to know where to look.
Problem with the choke.
I've used a $10 carb once and had good luck.
Cheap Homelite string trimmer I got for free but ran well. Primer bulb went on the carb, new bulb was close to price of Chi-Com carb. It's still running.
James Davis
ArboristSite Lurker
I'll check into that.
I buy those cheap ebay carbs for weed wackers and Wild Things, not for a quality chainsaw.
I've purchased dozens of them and the results have been favorable.
Most of the time the diaphragms are still good. Doing a 7psi pressure test on the fuel inlet before disassembly will help you assess things. If it holds pressure, you can probably reuse existing components. If it leaks down, hold the carb by the tubing to your pressure source and dunk it in a bowl of water. This wont hurt anything since the carb is under pressure. Bubbles along the mating edges show you gasket leaks. Bubbles coming from the venturi are usually from the metering valve. Regardless of the test results, examine the metering diaphragm for distortion and suppleness. Hold it up to a light and look for pinholes. Check the fuel pump diaphragm for deep bowing into unsupported areas - it may have stiffened and stretched. Check the tip of the inlet needle under strong magnification - you don't want to see a prominent indented ring. The valve seat should be smooth and shiny.
Cleaning: I clean the diaphragms and gaskets with WD-40. (The metering diaphragm is almost always stuck to its gasket and I let it be.) If the valve seat needs cleaning, cut a Q-tip in half, moisten the stick end, and dip it in baking soda. This fits nicely in the valve seat. Twirl it with slight pressure to remove crud. The carb block and small parts go into the ultrasound cleaner with water + Dawn. This may be overkill, but it's quick and easy and just might dislodge any gunk under the welch plug. Rinse well and blow out gently. Never put the air hose right up to any orifice (may damage a check valve). Remember to check that the metering lever is at the correct level for your carb. If you replace the diaphragm, measure the plunger length to make sure it matches the old one. On any part, if in doubt, replace. OEM kits are the way to go. Metering side: gasket next to block; fuel pump side: diaphragm next to block. Reassemble and do pressure test. This time it must pass before using. Once you get the hang of it, carb rebuilding is one of the easiest jobs in saw restoration.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Operative
Had a little saw do similar, (would prime, start, die 15-second run; replaced carb, no help, had new line and filter, finally noticed slight kink in 1-inch long line between carb/ primer; trimmed 1/8" to straighten and reinstalled and CURED... FUEL MUST BE ABLE TO FREEFLOW; crimp would allow prime, but not freeflow
