I remember seeing a video of a hollow tree being felled and a snake escaping from it in a hurry.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Id poop my pants , scream like a little girl and laugh like crazy about it later!!!
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
Come on Pogo its a solid 22" log the bar was barely sticking through it's a square filed chain also. I would never run a square filed chain in dirty wood AKA hollow. I will probably start using youtube Thanks for telling me how easy it is..mov files don't open in a post like YouTube links. Hafta download the file to watch it..., at least on my laptop using Chrome. You should get a YouTube account. Easy peasy.
And dude, c'mon. A hollow log? I was waitin' for a 'possum to come runnin' out!
The saw sounds good, but I think the rakers might be a little high.
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was cleaning out the super 250 and this fell out from around the cylinder fins. I dont know if this belongs on the saw or just something the previous owner lost and somehow found its way on the saw. Maybe it fell out of from underneath the switch or coil area? Switch seems to work fine.
Anyone know?
Anyone know?
It does resemmble the switch off a 10 series
I was getting my 1-40 ready to put up for sale. The recoil wouldn't rewind. I pulled the three screw on top and wound the rope around the pully, and it turned over. It was stiff and I wasn't sure if the dogs were kicking in or the recoil was just hard to turn. Turned the 5/16 screws and they spin, but don't come out. Feels like they have nuts on the inside and I need to pull the whole side cover. Didn't want to put that much time in it. Cool thing when I pulled the airbox cover, it was pretty spotless inside, and had yellow over spray on the carb. The pic on Acres shows a 1-40 with the whole thing painted yellow, muffler, every thing. The bar on the Acres saw has a yellow tip on a diagonal. Mine doesn't, but I have a yellow tipped bar. Any one interested in this saw for $100 plus shipping before I put it in the trading post?, Thanks, Joe. Please send a PM if interested so I can tell who's first.
That’s the bottom part of your switch.
Theres a guy just below here under "similiar threads". Very first thing says want to buy older mcculloch chainsaw. He may be looking for your saw. Might be worth a repky to him.I was getting my 1-40 ready to put up for sale. The recoil wouldn't rewind. I pulled the three screw on top and wound the rope around the pully, and it turned over. It was stiff and I wasn't sure if the dogs were kicking in or the recoil was just hard to turn. Turned the 5/16 screws and they spin, but don't come out. Feels like they have nuts on the inside and I need to pull the whole side cover. Didn't want to put that much time in it. Cool thing when I pulled the airbox cover, it was pretty spotless inside, and had yellow over spray on the carb. The pic on Acres shows a 1-40 with the whole thing painted yellow, muffler, every thing. The bar on the Acres saw has a yellow tip on a diagonal. Mine doesn't, but I have a yellow tipped bar. Any one interested in this saw for $100 plus shipping before I put it in the trading post?, Thanks, Joe. Please send a PM if interested so I can tell who's first.
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
If there was a prize being offered, you would have won first place. For some reason this saw came with spare parts tucked in the cylinder fins.
It's the base for a switch. A 10 series switch is very similar. I believe the 250 base is a bit wider. Different part numbers for each base.
Certainly worth checking to see if the switch is somehow rednecked without a base, but I don't see how that would even be possible.
edit: Oops. Just a little slow today!
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
First time removing the flywheel cover and its really clean. I'm wondering if this saw wasn't used much, couldn't get any history out of the seller. BTW, its started first pull this morning on choke and ran till I turned it off after test cut. Chain needs alot more work. If the last guy/gal that ran it was cutting wood with it, they stood there a while. The dullest Oregon #52 .404 I've seen and with as much as the cutter that is left I doubt it ever had a file in it.
Thanks Vinny. I've been meaning to ask, did you rebuild a 7-10 for Ed. You interested in doing another one. I put new rod, piston, rings in it, have seals, gaskets, pretty much every thing to put it back together. Got it half way done and realized I was missing the oil pump in side the tank. Put it in a box and got into other projects. I'd still like to have this as a runner, Joe.
I got one that was a little dirtier than that for $35, and I sent it off to Heimann as soon as I learned of his museum project. I'm sure it's much happier living there instead of living on a back shelf like it did when I had it.
Pm sent
I have 2 PM610s that will not oil. I have tried new pumps, new hoses and filters without luck. I have blown air through both the pickup and chain side and they were clear. I did not check for a leak on the pickup. I thought this was incased and could not leak. I am going to look at mine for the problem you found. I hope this will yield an answer.
Brian
I went through a whole series of pumps for the 600 Series saws just to make sure they were all working before I packed them away. I found a few with the outlet check valve stuck, try removing the spring and sleeve and reinsert the piston to push the ball free. The valve is described as being unserviceable but it is possible to grip the sleeve with a pair of long nose vise grips and twist/pull it out. Once it is cleared just press it back fully into the pump body.
I have not found a way to repair the inlet check valve (rubber disk, brass body) if it is non functioning.
The older pumps have a serviceable check valve just like the 10 Series manual pumps. Just make sure you have the correct diaphragm as the later ones for use with the integral check valve require a different diaphragm.
Mark
I have not found a way to repair the inlet check valve (rubber disk, brass body) if it is non functioning.
The older pumps have a serviceable check valve just like the 10 Series manual pumps. Just make sure you have the correct diaphragm as the later ones for use with the integral check valve require a different diaphragm.
Mark
Another possibility and common problem with the 600 Series saws is the pick up tube itself, they will deteriorate and drop off in the oil tank, or just crack near the nipple and only draw air. Turn the saw so the bar side is up and try the manual oiler, this will submerge the pick up point in oil, if it works in that position the problem is with the pick up hose.
Mark
Mark
@rwoods Ron were you looking for oversize 101 pistons? This .070 nos one is on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-KA...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-KA...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
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