Swingblade Mills

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Keder

ArboristSite Lurker
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Anyone have a swing blade in use?
Lurker here…. Don’t see much discussion on these saws.
I have a D&L 180 and been learning the hard but fun way. Every log is it’s own discovery!
 
I built a power feed. Electric motor, hydro drive, chain down each side, variable speed, instant reverse. No back required.
 
Total build cost less than $400
Sears lawnmower drive $100, chain, sprockets, scrap, used motor etc.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0603.MOV
    22 MB
I don't get your movie through, don't know why.
We would be interested in more about this, please post a video that works.
 
I don't get your movie through, don't know why.
We would be interested in more about this, please post a video that works.
Seems to upload ok for me. The swing blade basic mill by time all said and done is about $20k in place.
In my situation definitely a hobby mill.
At 68 it’s a fun thing and there are simpler ways to make money. The mill is very efficient and fast, could be a business.
I’ll try posting a video of it cutting, have cut about 5 cord with the power feed.
Boards have been going into farm snd saw shed and everywhere else….just farm consumption could pay for itself over a few years.
 
That mill was about 20K$ in the year 2020.

I don't have a current price but they are way less than most people realize.
I bought a Lucas swing blade mill in 1998. 8" cut, 20 hp Briggs. Highly transportable and versatile. Bought a 6 foot chainsaw slabber that will cut a 5 foot wide slab. Has a purpose built sharpener for the circular saw blade.
Still going strong on original engine and blades.
I have cut several floors with it in Ash and Copper Beech. Slabbed Elm, Ash, Oak, both English, Turkey and Evergreen. I think it cost below $10k in 1998. It also has an attachment to make weather boards, there is a planer and a sander for the slab tables. Truly versatile machine. Simple, easy to maintain and reliable.
I visited Australia in 1998 and called in to the Lucas factory at Beechworth, near Melbourne. Ned Kelly country. Shook hands with Geoff Lucas who was so pleased that I had made the effort that he sent through some spares to the uk as a thank you
 
Wow! I'm sometimes surprised what I wrote some other night, makes me wonder what dark corners my mind have been in to.

Well, happy new year nevertheless.
 
I bought a Lucas swing blade mill in 1998. 8" cut, 20 hp Briggs. Highly transportable and versatile. Bought a 6 foot chainsaw slabber that will cut a 5 foot wide slab. Has a purpose built sharpener for the circular saw blade.
Still going strong on original engine and blades.
I have cut several floors with it in Ash and Copper Beech. Slabbed Elm, Ash, Oak, both English, Turkey and Evergreen. I think it cost below $10k in 1998. It also has an attachment to make weather boards, there is a planer and a sander for the slab tables. Truly versatile machine. Simple, easy to maintain and reliable.
I visited Australia in 1998 and called in to the Lucas factory at Beechworth, near Melbourne. Ned Kelly country. Shook hands with Geoff Lucas who was so pleased that I had made the effort that he sent through some spares to the uk as a thank you
 
I almost bought the Lucas mill. US supplier was stumbling a bit on getting back to me etc. Was impressed with it and the D&L. Lyndsey at D&L made it easy. They are all good saws for the dollar.
Yes takes a Viking to make deep cuts…..
Or a wirey little guy and a good Physio guy.
 
I almost bought the Lucas mill. US supplier was stumbling a bit on getting back to me etc. Was impressed with it and the D&L. Lyndsey at D&L made it easy. They are all good saws for the dollar.
Yes takes a Viking to make deep cuts…..
Or a wirey little guy and a good Physio guy.
I should know, I am married to a Viking!
 
I looked up the company and some videos. They only show a few seconds of a three axle mobile unit. It seems reasonably priced not sure if they do smallish deposit and balance on delivery or play different. Could be used to de bark before going to a band mill. Superior to trimming a log somewhat too big for the band mill at hand to a chainsaw. Would need a machine in that scenario. I did find one video of it with the planeing attachment, and it certainly got wobbly.
The videos I found were various model number on them.

What generally happens is as one removes lumber or the pre cursors to lumber the cant or the precursor to a cant bows. Advertising the use without rotating the log is questionable.
 
I looked up the company and some videos. They only show a few seconds of a three axle mobile unit. It seems reasonably priced not sure if they do smallish deposit and balance on delivery or play different. Could be used to de bark before going to a band mill. Superior to trimming a log somewhat too big for the band mill at hand to a chainsaw. Would need a machine in that scenario. I did find one video of it with the planeing attachment, and it certainly got wobbly.
The videos I found were various model number on them.

What generally happens is as one removes lumber or the pre cursors to lumber the cant or the precursor to a cant bows. Advertising the use without rotating the log is questionable.
Are you talking about a Lucas Mill here?
 
I was wandering around the internet searching for stuff pertaining to the first post in this thread.

" The D&L 180SB Series is available in 3 models and 3 sizes with a variety of options to suit any need."

https://dltimbertech.com/portable-sawmills/
I would be rather confident that the cant curves as it is cut into with any mill. The ones that hold the log by the end and cut off both sides at the same time being the exception.
 
Nope, accuracy is within 1/16 end to end, over and over. I cut lots of 6x6x12-16 ft. Even if the blade lead is off a bit very accurate.
Some logs with big internal stress will always be beasts. Not having to rotate the log is a godsend. I used a chainsaw mill (with crank feed) for a year, log handling can be “hurtful” and slow.
The swing blade does rock and roll, wiggle a bit, kinda freaky but easy to dial in and somehow a square even board when 4th side sawn. Frozen, half frozen, dry wet snow, all cut the same. Little if any drift over knots.
First couple cuts reduce waste. Can skim a thin slab off top and take a ****** slab board for paddocks , same on a side, then cut right to left 71/4 deep, 11/2 over in steps, fence board as second to last, then slabs gone too. Stop, flip 2-3 inch bottom slab (redog) flatten top. Now have a live edge 2 inch thick. On a straight log that’s 4 skinny slabs and a few triangles off the edges. Bunch of 2x8 and 3 fence boards all edged and a live edge. I use to build crates . I’ll get a video together.
 
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