Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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So worth it. Don't know what I'd do without mine,well except a bigger one would be nice.

Yikes! I had something similar happen with one if their camp axes. But I was driving that through a log with a sledge hammer too. Never tried the warranty as it was 100% my fault. Welded a pipe handle on it and never looked back.


The isocore handle is much heavier then the X series axes. I've umm whiffed a few times pretty hard and haven't broken it yet.


Clamp on forks suck. For picking heavier stuff up, not that my tractor can lift much to begin with, but I borrowed a set of clamp on forks to try out, and year was so worth waiting till I found a set of actual forks.
Does your tractor have quick attach? Does make it a lot easier and cheaper to fond forks..
No quick tatch. I know several guys that converted and they say it's the best thing they ever did.
 
KK probably summarized this the best, but I just have to add my 2 cents!

As I have previously stated, I've done a fair amount of bullet testing myself and I will agree that the larger diameter the bullet, the less it will penetrate ... given two cartridges with the same power. That said, there are countless other factors. For example, I really like the Barnes X bullets because they give both large diameter expansion and deep penetration because the 4 pedals created upon expansion do not form a solid front mushroom, but the spinning rotation of the bullet allows it to cut like an arrowhead. So, you get both a large diameter expansion and deep penetration, it is a real game changer!

Take a factory 270, 30-06 and 348 Winchester. All start with approximately the same power. If the bullets are constructed properly, the 270 will penetrate the deepest ... and the 348 the least, but a much higher percentage of 270 bullets are fragile and will fail! Also, the 348 will create the largest wound channel, so as long as it has sufficient penetration, it performs the best!

If shot through the lungs (to preserve the shoulder meat, which I usually do), the 348 deer will bleed out first and leave a much better blood trail. When you shoot the shoulder, often bone fragments do most of the killing.

In most of Africa, they have minimum calibers for Cape Buffalo and other dangerous game. This is because a Cape Buffalo will often charge you, and they want it to die before you do. In fact, many guides (who carry a gun to stop dangerous animals, not to hunt them) carry a shotgun loaded with slugs or buckshot (depending on the game). Neither will penetrate deeply, but close up they will stop a dangerous animal as good as anything, and often allow for quick second and third shots.

So, if I were hunting brown bear alone, I would want the most powerful rifle that I feel comfortable shooting accurately because it may need to be both a hunting rifle and stopping rifle.

As my eyes get older, I have also concluded that for hunting I generally prefer a quality 3 X 9 power scope. I always leave them set on 3X as that gives a quick wide-angle view. 3 X 12 scopes will usually have a much thinner field of view on 3X than a 3 X 9 scope, and I never need more than 9X for big game.

Older scopes are cool when the conditions are right, but they cannot compare to the quality of more modern optics. I'm reminded of that every time I shoot my 220 Swift. It has a 10X (fixed) Leupold scope that cost more than the gun back in the mid 70s, but does not compare to my newer scopes.

For my 338-06 project I got a Vortex 3 X 9 X 50 Crossfire II scope. They are reasonably priced, bright and clear. The 50 mm objective lense will give me a little more brightness in low light conditions.
 
Don't laugh. My trusty model 94 30-30 :surprised3: has an old Armsport side mount fixed 4x on it. Prolly kilt more deer with the iron sights though.
I post this pic a lot. Look at the rifle. It's a 1912 Savage 1899H Take Down in 22 HiPower, with the original Malcolm 3X scope. I guess they didn't trust optics in 1912 because the scope is mounted to the left of the barrel. When I got the rifle a friend said it was like looking through a glass of milk, looking through the scope. I actually shot this deer using the Tang sight. I've since had the scope restored and it's crystal clear. I'm taking it to SC on a pig hunt in a couple weeks. We hun three days and are allowed one pig a day. I'm taking three rifles. The 22HP, a 250-3000 and a 303 Savage.
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Oh Im not laughing at the the gun or the scope brother! Im laughing at the fact that its a Husky and I actually want it! 🤣🤣😉

My Sako Finnbear 06 has a fixed 4x redfield widefield on top top of it! 👍
Fixed 4X scopes are still very useful. I have Zeiss 4X scopes on my circa 1964 Ruger .44 Carbine and my 1973 Remington 700 BDL .30-06. They were perfectly suited to the woods where I deer hunt when I bought them in 1985. Both are German made and with a very strong dollar at the time cost about $195 each with shipping. The 25 (30?) year warranties have run out but I don’t anticipate needing them.
 
I don’t have a lathe, so you’re both beating me in that category.
Either one are pretty handy tool to have...I use mine quite a bit more than I ever thought I would.

My mill is just the el cheapo $250 Jet mill/drill I got not to long ago. I know you have a pretty nice Bridgeport.

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No quick tatch. I know several guys that converted and they say it's the best thing they ever did.
Totally worth the upfront cost to convert. Opens a world of front mounted implements. I wish my dad would let me convert his L series kubota. Since I had to build my loader it was the natural choice imo. Wel that and my uncle has a real little skid loader he cleans stables out with and loads of attachments that won't outweigh my pathetic lift capacity.
Anyone like orange, cool old Dodge go good with the orange Husqvarna’s Lol View attachment 1055291View attachment 1055292
That brings back some memories. First diesel I bought was a 90 w250. The truck road like a brick, radio fell out of the dash and the interior all around sucked, but man it was a tough truck. Always worked.
 
I've owned a sawmill since 1998 and that hasn't been MY experience.

Most 5/4 lumber (most used thickness) will be down to ambient moisture content in less than a year, mostly depending on the time of year it's cut, and some will get down in just months. Then you can move it indoors, and in another month or so, it will go down to what ever the RH is in that space.

IF you kiln dried the lumber, it will still go up or down to the RH of whatever space it ends up in.

SR
Waiting on you to quit whining about the weather and guys cutting up cherry for firewood and to get over here and grab some sticks :lol: .
These three were in the back yard. Also laid the one in the yard on the left perpendicular across them mostly with its natural lean, I did tickle the face a bit to turn it a little more to the right in the picture once the top started to move. I know I'm not a professional faller, so I hope that was legal. Oh wait, I did get paid to drop these, never mind :laughing:.
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This one was the one on the side of the house, I removed one large limb before this picture to minimize damage to the yard. Had to pull it to the right/south against its lean and against the 15-20mph wind. Under no wind I could have wedged it against the lean, but the wind could have easily broke the hinge wedging it. Besides why use a plastic wedge when I have a Japanese felling tool ;).
The picture looks a bit fish eyed, because I had it on .5 for the size/ zoom, didn't realize that until later. Pics are looking pretty bad as my lense is cracked again :(.
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The guys story changed from his buddies wanted the wood, to you can have anything you want because i probably wont do anything with it for a few weeks lol. So I took the biggest butts and anything that a 20" bar wouldn't reach thru(the bigger ones were from the on in the side yard). Also took one smaller stick(bottom left) as that was the branch I removed and it was in the way for dropping the larger tree in the side yard.
Iay go back for more later to get more for firewood Rob 😆. There are a couple more straight pieces, but I wanted to get out of there because I never planned on removing anything and as it was I had to double back for the tractor. If I go again I'll bring the 20' trailer first and then the 14 to pick up the tractor, that way I don't run out of space. I'll also try to negotiate a few shekels for doing it, well see.
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Last time I talked to Phil, he was still standing by his works, and as for belted magnums, they were out before the Nosler Partitions that both Phil and MANY others are sold on, were even invented, so belted magnums didn't change his mind and it hasn't changed mine either.

That 7 Rem. Mag comment is ridiculous! I've hunted with one for a time and tested bullets out of it extensively. Loaded with 175 NP's it's an amazing big bear rifle, that I've also seen easily kill a number of bears. It HAS to be another case of what Phil said!

You don't stop a charging bear (wounded or otherwise) by doing anything other than breaking it down, and a "properly loaded" 30-06 or 7 Rem. mag. will do that just as easily as a bigger cartridge/bullet does and even better than some. A 7 mag will out penetrate many of the .375 bullets out of a 375 H&H, and I've seen .458 bullets that didn't exit a bear on a side shot. I've read that same thing from guys who shot big lions with a 458/500 that didn't have full penetration too.

I've hunted with and killed big game with so many of these cartridges, along with testing bullets out of them, that sometimes the things I read on the net that guys post, just makes me shake my head!

SR
Well, Im definitely going to have to disagree on that for sure. My neighbor put 4 7mm mag 170's clear through both shoulders on a 9'6 Kodiak. It STIHL made it to the alders and lived several minutes before the two hunter's went in after it. The only reason they killed it is because the bear stood up and he was able to break the bears neck. I figured you would know you don't want a projectile to punch clear through the animal. It is best if ALL of the bullets energy is used inside the animal. Morris Talifson is responsible for more successful Kodiak Bear hunts than the next top three Alaska bear guides combined! Throw your buddy Phil in there and that makes four! The 7mm Mag is not at all! In any shape or form a good "Bear gun!" Break them down? WITH A DANGEROUS GAME STOPING GUN. YOU DONT HAVE TO BREAK THEM DOWN! Your going to break a 1000 lb charging Animal down that is coming at you from 10 yrds at 20-25-30mph? Are you super sonic super man or something? My good friend, excellent hunter and fairly good shot got charged last fall. Also by a 9.5 footer. The bear started its charge at aprox 50 yards the brush was so thick he didn't get his first shot off until 12yrds!!! He didn't even get the rifle thrown down on the bear until 25ysrds!! The first shot rolled the bear stopping it just long enough for a second shot. Five shots total untill the bear stopped moving. All from an experienced hunter fireing a 300WM!!
Now Your going to sit there and try and convince me that A 7mm Mag or 30-06 is just as capable if not more than a 375-H&H or a .416 or a .458 Lott? On Dangerous Game animals??? Have you gone Bananas SR? How many stopped charges have you really seen? Why is it illegal to hunt any ANY! of the big five with anything smaller than a .375 H&H?? A 222 Remington can kill a bear with one shot behind the ear! Dose that make it s good bear gun too???
Then on top of it. You basically call me a lier by saying I'm full of S*"t! 🤣🤣

Well Hundreds of thousands of thousands of African and Alaskan Guides and experienced hunters must all be wrong, but SR is right because that's what Dr Phil says!!! 🤣🤣

Come on man!!! Wake up and smell what you're shoveling! 👎

Good Day Sir! A good day to you indeed!!!
 
Either one are pretty handy tool to have...I use mine quite a bit more than I ever thought I would.

My mill is just the el cheapo $250 Jet mill/drill I got not to long ago. I know you have a pretty nice Bridgeport.

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ha! you won't replace that Jet with no $250 replacement, these days. not even with an Enco!

them's be slick drill mills! i :heart: mine! Enco on Enco stand...
 

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