Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I have a question for the experienced sharpeners here. I've been hand filing my chains and using a progressive depth gauge to set the "rakers". I tried the theory of leaving the cutters different lengths. While they cut well and throw good chips they seem to vibrate more than I'd like. Should I file them all to the same length? Would it run smoother then?
 
The most accurate rifle I own is an old .243 Herters. 5 shot group at 100 yard. Set a dime over the holes. Made a circle around it. All 5 shots were inside the circle with none touching it. I need to get the old girl out and see if I can still do it. If I can I will post it here. All you folks with ur tiny groups are making me envious. Anybody know how many times a smallish coon will flip over after being hit by a .243?
I’ve heard the old herters rifles were extremely accurate. They had an amazing product line up all across the board, it’s too bad they went out of business.

My main fleet of duck decoys is mostly the old Herters molded plastic decoys.
 
I’ve heard the old herters rifles were extremely accurate. They had an amazing product line up all across the board, it’s too bad they went out of business.

My main fleet of duck decoys is mostly the old Herters molded plastic decoys.
When i found it the guy had two. One made in England the other in Austria. I expected the Austrian one to be more accurate, but the groups were twice the size of this one. Easy decision when i saw the difference.
 
Seasoned Ash, Oak, Locust or Hard Maple (Sugar or Black) will all give your saw a good workout.

Black Walnut, Red Maple, Silver Maple etc. are on the soft side for hardwoods.

But, IMO, the hardest wood to cut (around here) is Shag Bark Hickory. It may not be as hard as Black Locust, but the grain is much tougher to cut and it will really slow your saws down.
 
I’ve heard the old herters rifles were extremely accurate. They had an amazing product line up all across the board, it’s too bad they went out of business.

My main fleet of duck decoys is mostly the old Herters molded plastic decoys.
My 348 Dies are Herters. I found them "second hand" but unused.
 
I have a question for the experienced sharpeners here. I've been hand filing my chains and using a progressive depth gauge to set the "rakers". I tried the theory of leaving the cutters different lengths. While they cut well and throw good chips they seem to vibrate more than I'd like. Should I file them all to the same length? Would it run smoother then?
I don't pay much attention to cutter length and I've never noticed my hand sharpened chains vibrating more than they did out of the box. With that being said, I don't spend a lot of time sweatin' the small stuff, and maybe mine vibrate more than I notice.;););)
 
Probably more times than being hit with 3" 00 buck. :innocent: :laugh:
I will tell you I once shot a porcupine that was up in a tree with 2 3/4 Express #2 and was VERY impressed. He was still going up while drops of blood were falling down.

I also remember testing it on plywood at about 40 yds and it was blowing through the plywood ... it is some mean stuff and I would never want to be hit with it.
 
Seasoned Ash, Oak, Locust or Hard Maple (Sugar or Black) will all give your saw a good workout.

Black Walnut, Red Maple, Silver Maple etc. are on the soft side for hardwoods.

But, IMO, the hardest wood to cut (around here) is Shag Bark Hickory. It may not be as hard as Black Locust, but the grain is much tougher to cut and it will really slow your saws down.
Seasoned madrone will make a saw work pretty hard, but it's worth it!
 
With the help of my daughter, we got caught up on the tax work yesterday, and I don't have any appointments scheduled for today (very unusual for this time of year). So, I went through my supplies and found I had 80 pieces of Norma once fired 223 brass (that was not originally mine) that I had got at the range.

So, I full length sized 50 pieces and (even though they did not need it) I trimmed them to minimum length so future loading will be easier. These will be for my Ruger American Rifle (a bolt gun) so neck sizing will likely follow. Since I have lots of it, and it has worked well for me in the past, I will be loading them with 26 grains of H-335 and various 55 and 53 grain bullets (5 different bullets, 10 shots each) to see what the gun likes best.

Don't know how long I have had them, but one of the boxes of 100 55 grain bullets is marked $7.40.

Don't know when I will find time to go to the range, but when I do I'll be ready!
 
Sounded great. Looking at the video, can't see why it needed wedges, did the gopro make it look that way.

A lotta of GoPro fisheye effect on that one. Most of the lean/limb weight was a heavy to the side, but I didn't want to go that direction. I was a bit surprised it needed wedges too, but the limb weight wasn't enough to get it over ...I set my first one just to try and get it moving that direction, so it didn't break off towards the lean. I also left a lot of holding wood on my on-side(with an ultra-thin offside,) so that hinge may have been resisting it going over as well.
 
My 359 is the same way. Actually if my old man cut any more then he does I'd suck it up and find a 261 mtronic for cheap and take that over there. He's the run it till it quits type of guy lol. Mtronic and autotune were a godsend to saws.
Mine used to give me all kinds of grief. I bought the saw new but always hated it.

Followed Tree Monkey’s tutorial and put a steel boot clamp on it and now it runs perfectly.

 
That's exactly what it does when it stalls randomly. So yesterday it was a bit lean on the top. Barely four stroked and it was screaming. So I fattened the high and I should've left it. Then I started messing with the low and the LA and now it's all messed up. I was thinking since I don't have it in "winter" mode, could the carb have been icing? It was 20° yesterday.

I love this one too. Fun little saw. I have the squish at .020" and it has a muffler mod. It's really fun when I put the 16" 3/8 bar on it.

High humidity? I doubt it's icing, but I could be wrong.
Seasoned madrone will make a saw work pretty hard, but it's worth it!
Madrone is probably the hardest wood I've cut, once it dries out, it's really tough.

I've spent a lot of time cutting fire-killed oaks...normally oak isn't super tough, but once it's dead standing for 5 years and all sun-bleached...some of it's much harder than even my seasoned firewood oak.
 
I have a question for the experienced sharpeners here. I've been hand filing my chains and using a progressive depth gauge to set the "rakers". I tried the theory of leaving the cutters different lengths. While they cut well and throw good chips they seem to vibrate more than I'd like. Should I file them all to the same length? Would it run smoother then?

What height are your rakers set at? Low rakers can make it grabby and/or chattery. Especially on smaller powerheads.
 
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