razor sharp chain

[wally 12]

I have been filing my chains by hand and they don't seem to get nearly as sharp as the new Stihl chains.
Is it possible to resharpen the chain and it be as sharp as the new ones?
If so can someone please give me some advise on how to accomplish this.
Thank's Todd

 

[Mr.]

Any monkey should be able to make a chain faster than stock IF he knows what a fast chain looks like.

When I first stumbled on this site I almost busted a gut when people were talking about not being able to make a chain faster than stock.

Yes, I am talking about a round filed work chain.

Fred

 

[wally 12]

Any monkey should be able to make a chain faster than stock IF he knows what a fast chain looks like.

When I first stumbled on this site I almost busted a gut when people were talking about not being able to make a chain faster than stock.

Yes, I am talking about a round filed work chain.

Fred

Thank's Fred,
I'm not sure I've been called a monkey before, but the reason I asked about the chain sharpening is because I don't really know much about it and just want to learn to do it the proper way.

 

[Adkpk]

"I'll be a monkeys uncle." I don't think anyone can sharpen a chain ever, better than factory. What you're talk'n bout Mr. is something of a whole different nature, right? Like if you alter a chain of which you speak of wouldn't it be prudent to redo the saw attached to it, so it could pull that type of altering of the chain through the wood? Not an expert just trying to help the guy out.

 

[wood4heat]

Any monkey should be able to make a chain faster than stock IF he knows what a fast chain looks like.

When I first stumbled on this site I almost busted a gut when people were talking about not being able to make a chain faster than stock.

Yes, I am talking about a round filed work chain.

Fred

Ya got me, whats a fast chain look like? :monkey:

 

[glenn31792]

http://www.vallorbe.com/Telechargement.php?p=10020&m=7&t=6&l=3

 

[wood4heat]

Thank's Fred,
I'm not sure I've been called a monkey before, but the reason I asked about the chain sharpening is because I don't really know much about it and just want to learn to do it the proper way.

You're no monkey, I can get my chains sharp but not like like brand new stihl. My bar cover has the sh!t sliced out of it from the original chain.

 

[Mr.]

I've got to test a few chains this weekend. I'll take a pic of a faster than stock work chain that is just filed in a few seconds per teeth with a "next size larger" round file. I've never tested a work chain in soft wood, all I've ever really cut is oak and hickory firewood.

The main thing is to acheive a nice "hook" that is not so small as to be brittle.

Wasn't trying to insult anyone at all. I am a pitiful filer by all accounts whencompared with everyone around me.

Fred

 

[Crofter]

Use the search function. There is a lot of info here on chain sharpening.

To answer one of your questions:

It is possible to sharpen a chain using a hand file that will out cut a new chain. It takes experience but it is achievable.

Treeco, have you studied the grind on a new Stihl chain? I think Stihls factory grind is in a league by itlelf! It is done with a contoured wheel that is not simply a radiused edge like the instructions show to put on your grinding wheel. If you follow the groove from the edge of the wheel it appears to run into the chassis of the chain so it is likely the cutter is sharpened before assembly. I dont see any way of duplicating it with a common round file so it is only there when the chain is cherry. The factory oregon and carlton chain factory grind can be improved upon with hand filing, especially treatment of the gullet area which can stand quite a bit of enlargement which will yield faster times by itself without even touching the top and side.

 

[zr900]

I know a lot of people don't like to use a Dremel type tool to sharpen a chain because it does remove a little more meat than other methods. However I only cut wood to heat a few homes and don't mind grinding the chain a little more aggressive.

I actually don't use a Dremel, but a big ID grinder that spins at about 25,000 RPM. I use a cordless Roto Zip for in the field touch-ups and I also use a high quality 1/4inch grinding stone that my Dad orders through his machine shop instead of a 7/32 or whatever a 3/8 pitch chain calls for.

By sharpening chains this way we have seen an improvement over stock chains, in how fast they cut, and they also seem to hold an edge a bit longer. We cut 95% clean wood.

It also only takes about 2 minuets to sharpen up a 24" chain.

We probably can sharpen our chains 20 - 25 times before we toss them, and we never sharpen them all the way to the witness mark.

 

[Mr.]

, especially treatment of the gullet area which can stand quite a bit of enlargement which will yield faster times by itself without even touching the top and side.

This is a nice by product of using a larger file for sure. I can't stand the Stihl chains once they are over half worn. They are nice until that point, but it becomes harder to use the larger file when they are well worn.

Fred

 

[Adkpk]

I've got to test a few chains this weekend. I'll take a pic of a faster than stock work chain that is just filed in a few seconds per teeth with a "next size larger" round file.

Fred

That sounds good. We'll take you up on that.

 

[redprospector]

I haven't seen the "new" Stihl chain, but I file a new Oregon, or Carlton chain before I'll even use it.

Andy

 

[BC WetCoast]

I know a lot of people don't like to use a Dremel type tool to sharpen a chain because it does remove a little more meat than other methods. However I only cut wood to heat a few homes and don't mind grinding the chain a little more aggressive.

I actually don't use a Dremel, but a big ID grinder that spins at about 25,000 RPM. I use a cordless Roto Zip for in the field touch-ups and I also use a high quality 1/4inch grinding stone that my Dad orders through his machine shop instead of a 7/32 or whatever a 3/8 pitch chain calls for.

By sharpening chains this way we have seen an improvement over stock chains, in how fast they cut, and they also seem to hold an edge a bit longer. We cut 95% clean wood.

It also only takes about 2 minuets to sharpen up a 24" chain.

We probably can sharpen our chains 20 - 25 times before we toss them, and we never sharpen them all the way to the witness mark.

Want to send them to me instead. We sharpen until the teeth start to break off, way past the witness marks. We could probably get another 2 weeks of work out of them.

We just hand file, sometimes in the vise (in the morning or at night) or loose (during the day). Not saying they are the sharpest, but they are sharp enough to be efficient and effective.

 

[redprospector]

Ya got me, whats a fast chain look like? :monkey:

This is a halfast chain.

 

[romeo]

This is a halfast chain.

Half what? Your chains are faster than **** man..........

BTW, I have a few of Reds chains, I cant even copy them when they are sitting in front of me, so good luck copying from the pic:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[BC WetCoast]

This is a halfast chain.

OK, I have a question. I assume the filing into the link is done for a reason (rather than poor workmanship and it is done on links without teeth). Why are the links filed?

 

[redprospector]

Like I said; That's a halfast chain.
When beveling the strap's it's hard to get between the tie strap's without getting into the next one. So I guess it could just be "poor workmanship".
This one's a little cleaner, but I don't know if it's any faster.

Andy

 

[Mr.]

Quit playing with them Red. Take a picture looking up at that working corner with a white background, so they know what makes it fast.:jawdrop:

They will still be like me and not be able to duplicate it. :monkey:

Fred

BTW there is noting poor concerning that chain.

 

[romeo]

OK, I have a question. I assume the filing into the link is done for a reason (rather than poor workmanship and it is done on links without teeth). Why are the links filed?

Chip removal, everything is about chip removal. Chain only gets so sharp, 80% of the battle is getting the wood out of the cut.