Cheap Chain grinder

I'm an amature compared to you folks but anyway, I just bought a 49.99 Chicago tools grinder and just sharpened my first two chains with it.

I've been having the local guy sharpen them for $4.00 per. He has heart problems and cannot continue.

I am SO... impressed that I cannot explain. I am not a racer or a professional, just a Guy that neighbors come to if they need a tree out of their yard that fell down.

What do you all think? Is it really that easy? These chains are pretty sharp by my homeowner standards.

How long do those little pink stones last? 1 blade? 1000? Do they need dressed?

thanks
Larry

If it works, great, I hand file, have no idea if others can do better with machines or not. I figure the stones would lose size after a while.

daemon2525 said:

I'm an amature compared to you folks but anyway, I just bought a 49.99 Chicago tools grinder and just sharpened my first two chains with it.

I've been having the local guy sharpen them for $4.00 per. He has heart problems and cannot continue.

I am SO... impressed that I cannot explain. I am not a racer or a professional, just a Guy that neighbors come to if they need a tree out of their yard that fell down.

What do you all think? Is it really that easy? These chains are pretty sharp by my homeowner standards.

How long do those little pink stones last? 1 blade? 1000? Do they need dressed?

thanks
Larry

Click to expand...

Post a pit of the grinder. Been paying $5 myself, when they are beyond hand filing.

If the stones are of the same material as the ones for my Efco grinder they should last quite awhile. The stones do need to be dressed from what I have found.

They will not let me steal the Picture

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213

Rats!

I upgraded...

The cheap grinder you have, is pretty much the same as the cheapo grinder I upgraded from. I am with you in that it is amazing how well it works.

Make sure your degree is the same on both sides. Mine was off by atleast 5 deg from left to right. The little marks (or something) isn't quite right. Other than that it will work fairly well. The wheels are cheap, I think like 9 clams. 4 1/8 diam, and 7/8 arbor.

For what it is worth, since I have no idea how talented you are, but there is a chance that your little grinder can be reversed. I reversed mine just before I decided that a Oregon 511 would serve me better.

Reversing enables the wheel to leave the burr on the inside of the tooth. You will notice the right hand cutters are this way, but the left side the wheel is cutting outward. They are not quite (but darn close) as sharp as the others.

With a reversable motor the wheel can turn the correct direction on both sides. IF (and I say, IF!!) your grinder is like the one I used, it uses a PM motor with brushes, and the switch actually provides DC (at a amazing voltage) to the motor. Reversing is simplicity, simply wire up a DPDT switch in series with the motor. Email me, I could put together some instructions, and maybe a photo or two...

-Pat

There you go.

Thanks Patrick.

Yeah , I saw a picture and thought that maybe the chain holder and or that the power head would flip around so that it would grind both sides properly.

This is not the case, however for 50 bucks, I could not leave the store without it. LOL! I quess that I am too use to my compound miter saw!

I'am qualified to make the changes that you suggest. I'll E'mail you . thanks


Larry
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Do you know if it will sharpen both .325 and 3/8?

Does it come with disc to do sharpen 5/32" 3/8LP and 3/16" .325 and 7/32" 3/8 or do they have the disc there to buy extra.

Would anyone who has any experience, good or bad, please chime in here. I would like to know more about these chico grinders before buying one or another dozen other types of sharpening aides.

Anything similar in price (under$100) thats similar?


I really like the pro models from oregon but just cant justify the cost for my needs. I'm a homeowner, but I have 9 saws ranging from a tiny 015 to a honking SXL-925 and while I don't need a pro sharpener,I just get tired of hand filing.

7/32 Stihl file, piece of branch for handle, cordless.

cheap saw sharpener

I, too, bought one from Harbor Freight 3 or 4 years ago. Worked great, but annoyed the pants off me having to open the hood of my truck each time I wanted to use it.

So...ooo, I hardwired 4' of the female end of a 25' HD extension cord to my battery and the reminder to the gadget. Voila - long enough to sharpen off the tailgate (nice and stable), and the female end just stays in place with no need to open the hood anymore. Just wind up the longer piece with the grinder attached and put it in the tool box you use for other small engine bits and pieces. An empty film canister (clear is better) is the right size to store the stones, and if it's a clear one, you can tell which size is inside.

Something to consider - the HF unit (at least the one I had) uses non-threaded shafts for the stones and the Stihl sharpener uses threaded ones. They are mutually exclusive mounting systems.

I've used this sort of sharpener exclusively (except for a few times when I was working away from my truck) for 4 years and like it a lot!!

I find that the stones are likely to shear off at the end if you exert too much pressure on 'em. Still useful, just don't last as long. As expected, Stihl stones are expensive, but do last longer than the HF ones. I now own the Stihl sharpener.

I have one similar to the Chicago tools, mine is "Nick the Grinder" from Italy. Runs off the mains. It works great but it is somewhat flexible in the structure, so you need to treat it with feeling (like certain other creatures that I won't mention here).

I purchased one a couple of years ago and found that I wanted a grinding wheel that was more fitting for the 3/8 size chain. The wheel that comes with it is made for .325 or 3/8 low-pro size chain. I searched around and found that Oregon made a wheel for 3/8 chain with a 7/8 arbor that fit it and it worked just fine. You can purchase them from Northern Tool. You are welcome.

here is the one i got... http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1554.htm ....i'v done 1/4" to .404" with it and cutter's choice has the wheels for $11.95

Chain grinder:wheels and dressing

How long do those little pink stones last? 1 blade? 1000? Do they need dressed? thanks Larry[/QUOTE said:

Hey Larry,

I have an Efco (same as the midrange Oregon with manual anvil clamp). The wheels will last you quite a long while. I use a dressing bar and just brush it up to keep a sharp angle on the wheel corners and a flat face after doing rakers. I flip my wheel around too every so often. Also, I just use the 3/8 wheel (3/16th) for everything on my chains .325 and 3/8 and rakers(head at 90 degrees). Low profile .325 and micro might need the 1/4" wheel but I don't use any. Use a light touch and only take off the minimum of material. I love mine and always cutting with a pin sharp chain can't be beat.

Zee

Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm up to a whole two chains that I have sharpened. I brought the thing home excited and realized that I did not have any dull chains.

I'm still practicing. Its seems that I like to cut a little deep with the thing.
I'm getting in to the Tie staps some.

Someone asked about the stone. It only came with a 1/8" stone and If I remember the instructions said that you should do all chain types with the same stone. I can see how this could be questioned.

Ok first of all why would anyone want to take the chain off the saw to sharpen it? =wast of time! This type of grinder cuts very fast if you are not careful it overheats the cutter and it will lose it's temper and not hold an edge for long. Also the grinder wheel plunges into the cutter sharpening the leading edge of the top plate with the side of the wheel leaving it flat, without the curve that a round file produces. IMO using a dremel type device gives the curve of a hand file with the speed of a grinder. If you use dimound grind stones they last a long time.