Wright blade saw B316 video

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Nogoingback

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Finally took out my Wright blade saw I picked up a few months ago for a little test run. It actually cuts reasonably quick on branches 3 to 4 inches thick but on the bigger stuff it's painfully slow. The blade stroke is pretty short so I'm sure the teeth are loading up and causing the blade to float on the excess chips and making the blade mighty hot too. Other than the annoying kill switch that's built into the throttle trigger it was fun to use.
The tree I was cutting was a live ash I just dropped and was a very soft wood so I couldn't imagine what some oak would do to the cutting time.
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One thing about those blade saws they are always in good condition, I have yet to see one beat up badly, I think there is a reason for that:)

Cool vid, it's the first time I had seen one run, looks painful, how does it noodle:greenchainsaw:
 
Finally took out my Wright blade saw I picked up a few months ago for a little test run. It actually cuts reasonably quick on branches 3 to 4 inches thick but on the bigger stuff it's painfully slow. The blade stroke is pretty short so I'm sure the teeth are loading up and causing the blade to float on the excess chips and making the blade mighty hot too. Other than the annoying kill switch that's built into the throttle trigger it was fun to use.
The tree I was cutting was a live ash I just dropped and was a very soft wood so I couldn't imagine what some oak would do to the cutting time.
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Just tried starting my B316 up, but there's no spark. How is the kill switch hooked up? Should I only need the throttle pulled in to release it? I suppose the points and/or condenser has an issue as well.:cry:
 
Just pulled the flywheel, points and condenser are fine, there is a ground on the coil wire coming from the kill wire. Still cant see where it goes...
 
Actually its not the kill wire, I pulled the coil out of the saw, and the yellow (and only- besides the plug wire!) wire going into the coil has .6 ohms (near dead short) going from the yellow wire to the coil frame. Is this a normal or a bad thing?
 
Got an open between the plug wire and the coil frame, when I check my spare coils (for different saws) they have a consistant 8K ohm. Looks like a bad coil.:cry:
 
One thing about those blade saws they are always in good condition, I have yet to see one beat up badly, I think there is a reason for that:)

Cool vid, it's the first time I had seen one run, looks painful, how does it noodle:greenchainsaw:

Darn it!!! I didn't even think of trying that. :laugh:
 
Nogoingback,how is the vibration for the saw/
Lawrence

I didn't really notice it vibrate at all. The engine assembly has a pretty serious anti vibe set up and it can move front to back a good half inch or so.
 
Just tried starting my B316 up, but there's no spark. How is the kill switch hooked up? Should I only need the throttle pulled in to release it? I suppose the points and/or condenser has an issue as well.:cry:

There's three positions for the trigger. 1. High idle with the button pushed in. 2. Trigger held to the right side when released. This kills the ignition. 3. Trigger held to the left and released and this is the idle setting.
The ground wire snakes through the back of the saw and if you remove the side plate on the rear handle you'll see the wire and the kill switch contact it's attached to.
 
There's three positions for the trigger. 1. High idle with the button pushed in. 2. Trigger held to the right side when released. This kills the ignition. 3. Trigger held to the left and released and this is the idle setting.
The ground wire snakes through the back of the saw and if you remove the side plate on the rear handle you'll see the wire and the kill switch contact it's attached to.

Thanks for your help, I think i found it. If I twist the plug wire where it comes out of the coil counterclockwise I get 8k ohms, if I twist it the other way its wide open. So I'm thinking I might be able to fix it without having to get another coil.
 
Very nice. I sure wish mine would run like that!

Just be thank full yours has the Tilly HL on it. I also have a GS-2016 which is the same saw just made a little earlier and is dark red. This one has the Carter carb and I have to prime it with a little gas down the carb but runs fine after that.
I'm sure you wont have a problem getting your running considering all success you've had with with your other projects especially the Disston Mercury. Very cool by the way.
 
I'm sure you wont have a problem getting your running considering all success you've had with with your other projects especially the Disston Mercury. Very cool by the way.

Well, I got mine finally running. :) Its a slow cutter for sure, I wont be winning any competitions with it. At least there is no danger of kickback, and your "wright" that kill switch is a nuisance.
It sure is fun to get the old dog running again! <b>Nobody warned me, that sucker is LOUD!<b> But there's nothin' like the instant gratification of hearing it poppin' :cheers:
 
Cool beans man glad you got her going.:clap: I'm not sure you could call what is has for a muffler an actual muffler considering you can see the exhaust port and piston looking straight into it. I've got a GS-520 that I have to get going yet and it's 115 cc compared to 65cc for the B316 and the muffler is basically the same design. Going to be interesting to see how loud it's going to be but that's part of what make these fun to run.
 

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