finally used my new 346XP and don't like the 95vp

Well I finally had a chance to try my new 346XP today on some dead (fire-killed) pine that was waiting to be bucked. When it came time to put the chain on I appreciated the inboard clutch of my 372Xp....guess I'll get the hang of the 346XP's outboard (but that's already a different thread). She started up nice and easy....the priming bulb is a nice feature. The saw came with Oregon 95VP on an 18" bar. At first I thought wow this cuts nice....then after about 6 or 8 cuts of 8-10" pine I started thinking the chain wasn't performing as it was initially. I tightened the new chain and started again.....it didn't get any better. Cut a few more, checked chain tension, repeated, etc.....no difference so I finished the bucking with the 372XP. As Saw Troll has said I felt like I needed to stand on the saw to get it to cut with that 95VP. I was wearing my PPE but standing on the saw just didn't seem the safest thing to do. It being the saw's first tank of gas I didn't really want to work it to hard either. I have some Woodland Pro 20NK (made by Carlton I'm told) on order from Baileys so hopefully that will work better. If not I'm giving up on the narrow kerf and going with full 3/8 which will mean a change in bar, rim, and another order of chain...
The rpm was about 2900 at idle out of the box. My elevation is 5,000ft......just as an fyi. I wasn't going to mess with the carb during break in but just might (I didn't check max rpm).

Last Thursday I cut all afternoon with my PP346XP with 16" bar an 3/8 Oregon FC Square Grind and the performance was superb. I was cuttin ash and the chain seems the same as when I put it on new.

Sounds like you are off to a good start! I've got a loop of Woodsman Pro 20NK from Baileys and I'm just waiting for the opportunity to throw it on my 350 and give it a try. According to the AS search I did the opinions of this chain are varied, so I reserve judgment.

Enjoy your 346!

I finally got mine out last night right before dark. Mine is set up the same way as yours 18" 95vp and for the 15 minute job I had to do I thought it worked great. Differences: I was cutting down / limbing / cutting firewood out of a small pignut hickory in my yard ~8-9" dbh - two main leads from 14" bulbus base trunk (probably regrown from previous removal attempt). The tree was full of sap - it was running out of the cuts - instead of dead. I was pulling big old curleys on the cross cuts and probably only had one cut above 2-3 seconds. So the 95 vp did real good in that stuff but green wood generally cuts a lot better than the dead stuff I usually am working up.

Hopefully I can work it over in more general conditions this next weekend but so far so good.

Don

hmmm???

Am I the only one in here that runs the Oregon LGX??? opcorn:

I have tried oregon and carlton it only convinced me to by Stil chain by the roll.

interesting differences in experiences. I can't explain why, for me, it cut great the first 15 minutes or so and then went downhill from there. I know it wasn't the saw. As mentioned I didn't want to put too much pressure on the bar with the saw just out of the box.

Cedarkerf said:

I have tried oregon and carlton it only convinced me to by Stil chain by the roll.

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which Stihl chain would you recommend for the 346XP? I'm cutting dead pine, usually clean (dirt-wise) but the bark may be scorched.

ciscoguy01 said:

Am I the only one in here that runs the Oregon LGX??? opcorn:

Click to expand...

I think the LGX may not come in .325.....could be an option if I switch to 3/8
I have been happy with the LP on the 372XP

I wouldn't run Stihl chain on a 346, stick with the Narrow Kerf B/C that came with it.

brncreeper said:

I wouldn't run Stihl chain on a 346, stick with the Narrow Kerf B/C that came with it.

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reasons?
Maybe I haven't given the 95vp much of a chance but my first impressions are stated above.

I've had recommendations to use either Oregon LP or Stihl RSC on the 18" bar.

wildbio You will like the 20NK chain better, it holds it's edge better than the 95vp, and it's easer to sharpen.

You know what go with a 3/8 semi cheisel. The 346 will like that setup with a 16-18" bar and you won't have to worry about it keeping its edge but since you are setup for .325 try some different chains.

Andyshine77 said:

wildbio You will like the 20NK chain better, it holds it's edge better than the 95vp, and it's easer to sharpen.

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I concur - try the 20NK and I think you will like it just fine, and you won't have to change anything else out...

Interesting.

wildbio said:

interesting differences in experiences. I can't explain why, for me, it cut great the first 15 minutes or so and then went downhill from there. I know it wasn't the saw. As mentioned I didn't want to put too much pressure on the bar with the saw just out of the box.

Click to expand...

Perhaps it was the dead wood you were cutting or a defective chain? I've got a NE 346 with the same set up- not run it yet in wood, but my son has a 350 with the same BC combo, and that saw cuts great. I'll post some comments and such after I get a chance to run the saw - Damn holidays, can't get away to my land up north!! And this weeend I have to stay home to pull the Packers through!

Later - - Al

wildbio said:

Well I finally had a chance to try my new 346XP today on some dead (fire-killed) pine that was waiting to be bucked. When it came time to put the chain on I appreciated the inboard clutch of my 372Xp....guess I'll get the hang of the 346XP's outboard (but that's already a different thread). She started up nice and easy....the priming bulb is a nice feature. The saw came with Oregon 95VP on an 18" bar. At first I thought wow this cuts nice....then after about 6 or 8 cuts of 8-10" pine I started thinking the chain wasn't performing as it was initially. I tightened the new chain and started again.....it didn't get any better. Cut a few more, checked chain tension, repeated, etc.....no difference so I finished the bucking with the 372XP. As Saw Troll has said I felt like I needed to stand on the saw to get it to cut with that 95VP. I was wearing my PPE but standing on the saw just didn't seem the safest thing to do. It being the saw's first tank of gas I didn't really want to work it to hard either. I have some Woodland Pro 20NK (made by Carlton I'm told) on order from Baileys so hopefully that will work better. If not I'm giving up on the narrow kerf and going with full 3/8 which will mean a change in bar, rim, and another order of chain...
The rpm was about 2900 at idle out of the box. My elevation is 5,000ft......just as an fyi. I wasn't going to mess with the carb during break in but just might (I didn't check max rpm).

Click to expand...

The .325NK stuff probably will not be able to do the the NE346xp justice.

I would try 20LP and/or 23RSC on that bar, just to try it, before changing to 3/8".

I have a 16" bar with 21LP on mine by now, and it works just fine!

....and I sure will try another 16" bar with 73LP and LGX later.

I will also try a 8-pin rim with the .325 set-up.

I run 20NK on my 488 and I like it real well although I got a loop of Stihl 23RS that I like even better and with the added horsepower of the 346, it really should shine. I've never tried 23RSC, but like Troll said, it should be even better.

ciscoguy01 said:

Am I the only one in here that runs the Oregon LGX??? opcorn:

Click to expand...

My new 372XP came with 3 loops of LGX. I am not up on what is good,better,best when it comes to chain. But, this LGX cuts like no other chain I have used to date.

I appreciate everyones feedback. I recognize that different chains are better suited to different cutting tasks (i.e., green vs dead, hardwood vs. softwood) on a given bar/saw combination. This may explain the different suggestions seen in this thread. What works (or doesn't) work for my cutting situation may or may not work for yours. Both my saws are 99% used for firewood - felling and bucking. I collect my firewood under a personal use permit ($5/cord) from the nearby National Forest. The permit only allows the cutting of dead wood (standing or fallen). Around here it is all pine/fir....no hardwoods to speak of....and the occasional aspen or juniper. The trees I fall are either beetle-killed or fire-killed. The fire-killed may have some scorched bark remaining but the wood is not burnt. Fire-killed trees are often case-hardened (resins hardened/pulled to out layer) by the heat. Fire killed usually isn't very pitchy but beetle-killed can be. OK that's my cutting need explained.
I have been very happy with the Woodsman Po (Baileys but made by Carlton) LP on the 372XP. I may try the LGX at some point. My 346XP (NE 50cc) came with the 95VP (.325) on 18" Husky (Oregon Micro-Lite) bar which is meant for narrow kerf chain (narrower laminate).

I've heard recommendations for:
20NK - a narrow kerf chain made by Carlton that I have on order - so I will be trying it (and report back)
20LP - it is available in .325 and I will try this not only because I've had good results with it on the 372 but also because it is what SawTroll says I should try (and after reading many of his posts I trust his opinion).
LGX - only an option if I step up to 3/8 which I may try at some point
3/8 Oregon FC Square Grind - as above w/ the LGX
Stihl 23 RSC - this is available as .325 and will likely be what I try next ( see also my reasons for trying LP above)....I just can't tell the dealer what it's going on (!) Heck, I use Stihl ultra in my husky's....

One final question: Do I need to go to a different bar (other than the narrow kerf) if I try a different (non-narrow kerf) .325 chain?

Thanx all

Cisco

I am running the LGX, 28". I haven't had any problems with it. I believe I read on here that the LGX chain with the rounded drive links is no longer being manufactured, which is what I have. Their website shows it with the old style drive links now.