028 Cl score

[kugss]

I pick up a 028 off of CL for 40$. Owner said piston was scored and the price seemed ok so it followed me back to my truck. It runs but not right wont idle down then it will stall and doesnt rev right. I did a compression check and got 150psi after 5-6 pulls so i did a tear down and clean and a vacuum check. It holds vacuum but leaks off but i think its my setup not the saw. So now its all clean and it went through the carb and all seems ok. I will run it tomorrw and see waht happens. What is a good starting point for the high and low screws on this saw? The marks on the piston are very light nothing to worry about (i think)
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz189/KUGSS/IMAG0291.jpg
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz189/KUGSS/IMAG0289.jpg
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz189/KUGSS/IMAG0288.jpg

 

[Erock]

looking at that first pic that piston looks like it needs replacing, maybe the jug will too. After doing that re-do your vac test and see if you find any air leaks, if you do find any get em fixed or you'll just end up with another scored piston. Rest of the saw looks in good shape.

 

[MEATSAW]

That piston is scored. Replace the piston and rings. Remove all the aluminum transfer from the cylinder with muriatic acid and 400-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and finish with steel wool. Once thats all done, you'll need to fix the problem. If you have a leak, fix it. Seals are cheap. Gaskets are cheap.

If it was me I would throw a 46mm 028 Super top end on it and do a proper rebuild with new gaskets, seals, fuel/impulse lines. The 028 is a great saw worthy of fixing up right.

 

[Stevie-D]

factory settings for the high/low screws are 1 1/4 turns out from fully seated.

 

[StihlyinEly]

That piston is scored. Replace the piston and rings. Remove all the aluminum transfer from the cylinder with muriatic acid and 400-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and finish with steel wool. Once thats all done, you'll need to fix the problem. If you have a leak, fix it. Seals are cheap. Gaskets are cheap.

If it was me I would throw a 46mm 028 Super top end on it and do a proper rebuild with new gaskets, seals, fuel/impulse lines. The 028 is a great saw worthy of fixing up right.

Absolutely! The 028S is an excellent firewood saw. I run 18-inch B&Cs in 3/8 .050 on them and it's a great combo.

 

[sefh3]

That piston looks funny. The picture isn't great but it looks like you might have bearing issues also. The score is only on 1/4 of the piston. The whole exhaust side usually scores if there is a lean seizure going on. I would figure out what going on first.

 

[kugss]

Well i got it to run pretty good 150psi on compression is good for me. The carb settings were about as wromg as on could get. 4turns out on the low side and about 2 and a half on the high side and the idle screw was in to the point were the threads were on the linkage and the trottle plate was open so much i could see in it. So after cleaning it up going through the carb and setting the screws and flushing out the used motor oil from the bar oil tank i think i got a good saw. Now i just need to find a bar and chain for it.

 

[roostersgt]

Those saws perform best with a 16" / .325 / .063 bar and chain combo. I have a new roller-tip Timber Champ Tiger 16" bar laying around I'll let go for what I paid + shipping. They were on close-out at Bailey's. Great bars. I have them on 4 of my 028's and they aren't showing any wear. I can let you have it for $7 plus shipping to your location. Let me know.

 

[kugss]

Those saws perform best with a 16" / .325 / .063 bar and chain combo. I have a new roller-tip Timber Champ Tiger 16" bar laying around I'll let go for what I paid + shipping. They were on close-out at Bailey's. Great bars. I have them on 4 of my 028's and they aren't showing any wear. I can let you have it for $7 plus shipping to your location. Let me know.

Thats the size i was thinking about going for cause baileys stihl have them on close out

 

[roostersgt]

Good to hear. Just make sure you're getting the bar for a "Stihl", the others won't fit. 16" / 063 / .325 / 67dl is what you're looking for.

 

[Arrowhead]

Good score. Parts are plentiful for those. I'd put a new Meteor piston kit in it though.

 

[fearofpavement]

Couple comments. Good score. Saw is worth what you paid even if it never runs again. ie, value of parts.

Saw is worth fixing. There is scoring on the piston that needs to be attended to. If you run it like that, it will likely get worse. Just because the compression is good doesn't mean you can ignore it.

You may be able to clean up the jug and maybe even the piston but I would certainly pull the jug for an up close inspection.

Other comment is to verify what sprocket you have before you buy a bar/chain as it may not have the original being 30 years old. Probably .325 but might be 3/8". 16" bar is pretty common on that size saw. If you upgraded it to the Super, then I would run an 18" in .325 but lik bilong yu.

 

[Arrowhead]

Couple comments. Good score. Saw is worth what you paid even if it never runs again. ie, value of parts.

Saw is worth fixing. There is scoring on the piston that needs to be attended to. If you run it like that, it will likely get worse. Just because the compression is good doesn't mean you can ignore it.

You may be able to clean up the jug and maybe even the piston but I would certainly pull the jug for an up close inspection.

Other comment is to verify what sprocket you have before you buy a bar/chain as it may not have the original being 30 years old. Probably .325 but might be 3/8". 16" bar is pretty common on that size saw. If you upgraded it to the Super, then I would run an 18" in .325 but lik bilong yu.

:agree2:

 

[kugss]

Saw is worth fixing. There is scoring on the piston that needs to be attended to. If you run it like that, it will likely get worse. Just because the compression is good doesn't mean you can ignore it.

I hear what your saying, but i thinking about just running it without a air filter and let the dirt bore out

 

[sefh3]

Well i got it to run pretty good 150psi on compression is good for me. The carb settings were about as wromg as on could get. 4turns out on the low side and about 2 and a half on the high side and the idle screw was in to the point were the threads were on the linkage and the trottle plate was open so much i could see in it. So after cleaning it up going through the carb and setting the screws and flushing out the used motor oil from the bar oil tank i think i got a good saw. Now i just need to find a bar and chain for it.

That is a bit too much fuel going through that saw. It might run great but your carb is set high. Usually this is compensating for an air leak.

 

[kugss]

I should be picking up a bar this weekend and i will see how good it runs, It really sounds like a good runner.

 

[Bob95065]

Couple comments. Good score. Saw is worth what you paid even if it never runs again. ie, value of parts.

Saw is worth fixing. There is scoring on the piston that needs to be attended to. If you run it like that, it will likely get worse. Just because the compression is good doesn't mean you can ignore it.

You may be able to clean up the jug and maybe even the piston but I would certainly pull the jug for an up close inspection.

Other comment is to verify what sprocket you have before you buy a bar/chain as it may not have the original being 30 years old. Probably .325 but might be 3/8". 16" bar is pretty common on that size saw. If you upgraded it to the Super, then I would run an 18" in .325 but lik bilong yu.

I agree. I picked up a 028 Super last summer from a contractor that tried to run a gas/ATF mix. It didn't work. The piston looked like yours. I tore the saw down and fixed the cylinder with acid and sandpaper like others in this thread have suggested.

I ordered a piston and all new rubber parts (impulse line, fuel line, both crank seals, carb kit, base gasket, carb gasket, exhaust gasket) from Northwood Saw who is a sponsor here. After a couple of tanks the rings seated and it runs like new. It is a great little firewood saw that will serve me for years to come at a fraction of the cost of a comparable new saw.

If you continue to run the saw the way it is you will increase the cost of the repair that you will inevitably do. There is a reason why the piston looks the way it does - scored. If you don't remedy this situation you will go from needing to replace the piston to needing to replace the piston and cylinder. The stock cylinders that Stihl used are of very good quality and worth saving. if you wait until the cylinder is trashed to rebuild you will most likely buy an aftermarket cylinder that isn't as good as the one you have now. Problems like this don't go away by themselves - they get worse.

If you want to keep the saw and minimize your investment I would suggest finding the source of the air leak and repairing it and replacing the piston. If you want to keep the saw and you want it to be reliable I would suggest a full rebuild with the parts I changed. If you want to run it into the ground I would keep running it the way it is until it stops. In my opinion this would be a waste of a very good saw.