028 Super Rebuild...Bottom End a Bit Sticky

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bb1100yankees

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So the family left a few days ahead of me for the holidays...so what's a guy to do with a little time to himself? If you answered Build a Saw you are correct!

Rebuilding an 028 Super I bought from a fella that ran it with the brake on...got if off Craigslist for $50 and it came with a hard case and 4 useable chains, and a pretty complete saw less the clutch side parts that were fried. This worked out pretty good, as I basically got a case for my other 028 and I got another saw that with a little effort/money can be a runner.

So today I cleaned up up and started to tear it down. Yesterday I bought the 2 Qt Harbor Freight USC and it is worth it's weight in gold. Also bought a HF slide hammer and tried the drill, insert screw, and use the slide hammer to remove the crank seals...very easy and had both seals out in minutes (was careful with the screw/puller, and got em out cleanly). I bought the Lisle puller and just could not figure out how to use it to get the seals out of such a small area.

So I'm ready to get the crankseals installed and I notice the crank is a bit sticky and does not move quite freely. The clutch side bearing actually looks a bit "dirty"...not quite the shiny metal I remember from my last 028 rebuild. I did flush the case out with some mix a few times and left the last mix in the case for a few hours...this may have been a no no.

Anyway pics are attached...the P&C look pretty good. I replaced all the rubber like I said was ready to assemble, but the bottom end just feels tight and and sticky. I believe I have answered my own question and I assume I am going to have to split the cases and rebuild the bottom end...but can anyway chime in and let me know if I can clean up the bearings and free them up? They sure don't feel loose, and I don't have a case splitter and have about as much time to build a time machine as I do a case splitter.

Thanks guys and happy holidays!

028 Super Rebuild 1.jpg 028 Piston.jpg 028 Clutch Side Bearing.jpg
 
Well, if the bearings feel like they're dragging... You know the answer.
Before you build the time machine, make sure that nothing else could be creating the drag besides the bearings. If everything else is free and clear, then you're stuck with further teardown.

Have you had another saw disassembled to this point and this one feels different? Or does it just not seem right but nothing to compare it to?

Another option would be to try some additional cleaning and see if things improve. Could be some debris in the bearings that could be flushed out.
 
Thanks fop...I have had one other saw torn down to this point and that crank felt much more free...this one I can actually see some crud on the clutch side bearing...I guess I can try to clean it up further and see how it goes otherwise I guess I'm going to have split em (which I kinda want to do anyway I just need some time!)
 
When flushing the crankcase the grit gets displaced and settles/lodges between the balls and the raceway, blowing compressed air through between the balls will help remove most of that , flush with mix and blow out several times, only move the crank a little during this procedure. You don`t want to crush that grit onto the raceway too tightly. This procedure has saved a lot of sticky bearings for me, oil them after the cleaning process to prevent rust until startup.
 
Thanks guys...previous owner told me he cut between 4 and 6 cords a year for probably close to 20 years and I believe the bottom end is original am I think I am just going to split me as an experiment, it will be useful knowledge for future saws.
 
Take a brass hammer and hit the crank from both sides. It could be that it is binding from a side load.

I flush bearings all the time, but I only do it with the seals removed and I make sure to rotate them as I hose them out. Then I use copious amounts of WD40 on the bearings after I've blown the crankcase out with the air hose.
 
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