029 crankshaft seal replacement

[John Lyngdal]

My neighbor dropped off his 029 Super for me to take a look at.
It clearly has a vacuum leak, and should it be the crankshaft seals can they be pulled and replaced like a 026 or 036, or is it necessary to separate the bottom end from the cylinder for replacement. Are there metal body seals that can replace the crappy plastic seals from the factory?

Personally I don't want to work on this pig and would rather let him have a running pro grade Stihl or Husqvarna that I have on the shelf at bargain pricing and save myself the frustration, time, and effort.

 

[SteveSr]

My neighbor dropped off his 029 Super for me to take a look at.
It clearly has a vacuum leak, and should it be the crankshaft seals can they be pulled and replaced like a 026 or 036, or is it necessary to separate the bottom end from the cylinder for replacement. Are there metal body seals that can replace the crappy plastic seals from the factory?

Personally I don't want to work on this pig and would rather let him have a running pro grade Stihl or Husqvarna that I have on the shelf at bargain pricing and save myself the frustration, time, and effort.

Stihl clamshells tend to leak from the pan joint so you may have more leak than just the seals.

 

[cscltd]

stihl has different style of seals that you can install without taking block apart-but your better off splitting block and put in the standard ones. As noted it could be a leak from the sealer compound. But check for cut in airboot or impulse line first.

 

[ZeroJunk]

You will need an 8mm stud puller. Or, you can just buy a new rear stud and get it out with a pair of vice grips ruining the threads likely. The front one is not involved.
The pan comes off. It is only sealed with Dirko, no gasket.
So yeah, you have to break it apart. Replace the crank seals. And screw it back together.
Not much to it.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I used a cheaper brand of this style tool. Sometimes you can reuse the stud and install with them too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2337941473...2vdoD90|tkp:Bk9SR-iR46uWYw&LH_ItemCondition=3

https://www.amazon.com/Prokomon-Ext...8&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776

 

[heimannm]

I've run into a few different Stihl models that were leaking at the pan, better do it once and be done with it John. They're not that bad to take apart and put back together.

Mark

 

[SteveSr]

I used a cheaper brand of this style tool. Sometimes you can reuse the stud and install with them too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2337941473...2vdoD90|tkp:Bk9SR-iR46uWYw&LH_ItemCondition=3

https://www.amazon.com/Prokomon-Ext...8&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776

Can you not just use 2 cover nuts locked together and an open end wrench on the appropriate nut?

 

[slowcar281]

Can you not just use 2 cover nuts locked together and an open end wrench on the appropriate nut?

I’ve done it like that but I always end up buggering up the threads. That end of the stud is so short, 2 bar nuts barely fit

 

[furb]

I always pull them apart to replace seals and reseal the pan. I’ve had good luck locking bar nuts together to remove the stud most times.

 

[stihltech]

If you feel like taking chances, put in the seals only. Then when it doesn't work, tear it apart.
Age of the saw is against this working. Tear down and do a reseal.
BUT- did you check the pulse hose first? Pretty common part to crack at this age. Always have a few on hand. Did one last week.
This is why a vacuum and pressure test is a must. Where is the leak?

 

[TRTermite]

Can you not just use 2 cover nuts locked together and an open end wrench on the appropriate nut?

Yes that works. BUT the simple effort using this complicated gadget is so satisfying. As long as it doesn't become a 10mm /Lost in action. I have no regrets of buying mine andnever thought I would use mine as much as I do. If your Stihl dealer doesn't charge you shipping on your order the Stihl dealer is noticeably cheaper. The wait time sometimes out weighs the savings.

 

[TRTermite]

If you feel like taking chances, put in the seals only. Then when it doesn't work, tear it apart.
Age of the saw is against this working. Tear down and do a reseal.
BUT- did you check the pulse hose first? Pretty common part to crack at this age. Always have a few on hand. Did one last week.
This is why a vacuum and pressure test is a must. Where is the leak?

Some of the saws are more challenging to get sealed off to test. I am my worst enemy if I attempt to shortcut (Skip the pressure/vacuum test) Piece of mind has a value.
The 029 is an easy saw to test and repair.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I suspect that stud puller will come in handy later, but if you don't think you will use it again new studs are cheaper.

 

[stihltech]

Block off the exhaust the exhaust with rubber gasket material behind the exhaust gasket. Block off the intake the same way. Either get a sparkplug adapter, or leave the pump cover and gaskets off the carburetor and use the pulse hose to apply vacuum and pressure.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Never had an 1127 with bad seals that had a good impulse line or the inverse. Wrecked two studs over the years. A Ubolt nut with a bolt in it works just fine most times to pull that pita stud. If not weld a nut to it and be done with it. Grind off the welded nut after you get that stuck thing out if you need the stud again. Fuel line has usually already been replaced when I buy them running like crap. Got one 290 in last fall that went on the 1127 pile. It had new caps, fuel line and carb. No idol and it won't tune. Compression is just fine and the piston. They get all the needed rubbers, intake port dropped, lifted transfers, rubber cased seals and new rings. They rest is a case by case basis. Muffler mod is a must and the ignition timing advance. Ad a hondo to fair market value or let them sit until they sell. Usually one sells and three friends of that guy want one and now he needs another as a backup. They cut very well. Oil pump mods are extra. Dumb looks are still free. Comes with a 20" bar most times as requested.