034 Breakdown with PICS-- UPDATE!!!!

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ReggieT said:
I'm going to change out the plug, air filter, fuel line, fuel filter, check the piston & cylinder for issues...other than the crankshaft seals what else would you guys suggest that I check?
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Look over your clutch drum and bearing. There is an upgrade kit for those.

At least check/clean the carb, sawdust gets under the covers, strainers get clogged, and diaphragms get stiff/brittle.

True up the rails on the bar.

Rinse out oil tank/filter.
 
Mad Professor said:
Look over your clutch drum and bearing. There is an upgrade kit for those.

At least check/clean the carb, sawdust gets under the covers, strainers get clogged, and diaphragms get stiff/brittle.

True up the rails on the bar.

Rinse out oil tank/filter.
Click to expand...

Professor,
Here is my neanderthal progress which is most arduous to say the least, BUT...it is quite intriguing! :reading::dizzy:
This is my first time digging this deep into a saw.
From my limited experience...the piston looks ok.
The sparkplug was not burnt up up either...
Here are the pics:
Any thoughts???
034 piston2.jpg 034 Piston.jpg 034 Carb #1.jpg 034 Flywheel.jpg Plug & Jug.jpg Sprocket.jpg 20160109_223740.jpg
 
The 034 supers run pretty pissed off.. Looks like a good buy man, getting those seals out may test your patience a little bit but it's doable.
 
Scott Kelly said:
The 034 supers run pretty pissed off.. Looks like a good buy man, getting those seals out may test your patience a little bit but it's doable.
Click to expand...
Scott...I think I'm gonna let my Stihl Tech do it...I'm ok now on tune-ups & so forth...but that's outta my league...for now! LOL
 
If you do decide to get into that one day do yourself a favor and buy stihls seal puller. There was one Ole boy on Facebook splitting cases to replace seals, poor guy didn't know that there was a better way..

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 
Scott Kelly said:
If you do decide to get into that one day do yourself a favor and buy stihls seal puller. There was one Ole boy on Facebook splitting cases to replace seals, poor guy didn't know that there was a better way..

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Hmm...I appreciate that...I just read somebody's earlier post here AS and the guy was convinced the only method was to split the case...I was hoping there was a better & less invasive method!:eek:
 
scallywag said:
Do the crank seals actually need replacing?....Has the saw had a pressure test?
Click to expand...
Yep...He is top notch with Stihl & Husky'...I'm gonna take his word on it.
BTW...how would I know if they didn't need replacing...I do want to keep an open mind.
 
Clean things up more before you pull the cyl.

To do seals you'll need a flywheel puller ( ~$15-20) and piston stop (piece of rope), to remove clutch and flywheel. Many ways to pull the seals but don't damage the crank or case surfaces. My dealer will pull/install seals for a $15-20 if you bring in a clean saw with flywheel and clutch off. Seals come with the gasket set so just do them. You will want to clean up underneath the flywheel and clutch anyway. Might need a hose kit for the oil pump.

If piston/cyl look O.K. just get a quality set of rings. Check piston/cyl clearance first even if it looks good. If cyl is bad upgrade to 034S/036.

Exhaust side looks a little rich (black) clean all that carbon out when it is apart .
 

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