056 Super Video & Advice

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi chaps,

I have been on a freehand filing mission recently and learning all I can. Today I took the hook a little further than previous times just to see.

I found that it would cut beautifully smoothly if left to self feed or if I lifted on the handle applying gentle pressure, but if I lifted the handle up a little firmer the saw would slow down and I wonder if this isn’t the limit if the amount of hook I can put in (2.15 in the video)

Chips are great for dry Australian gum tree.

My question is, am I right in thinking I’m at the limit of how much hook I can have in the tooth for this log / moisture content / species? Is it a bit too much? Should I be able to lean into the saw and it keep pulling or am I expecting too much from the saw at 87cc? The first few cuts I just let the saw self feed / lifted the handle a little it was fantastic and then at 2.15 I lifted the handle a little more with the dogs in and that’s when it slowed down. A short clip of the chips at the end. PS I know the chain is a touch loose, I did it purposely because this hard nose bar gets really hot if it’s tighter.

Thanks for your time in advance and watch the video in 4K

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would say you are close to the limit the saw can pull if forced, self feeding may require a bit lower depth gauge setting. What are the depth gauges set at in the vid.?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I would say you are close to the limit the saw can pull if forced, self feeding may require a bit lower depth gauge setting. What are the depth gauges set at in the vid.?

Hi Jerry! They are set to the hard setting on the stihl progressive raker depth gauge. It’s self feeding nicely in all the cuts (I’m not putting any pressure on the saw at all in any of the cuts apart from some at 2.15). It just feels like it’s on the limit, would you reduce the hook a little if it was you cutting? I expected more from an 87cc with a 20” bar... sure it’s Australian hard wood, but still..

I expected to be able to lean on it and it keep pulling. I guess I’m expecting too much. Maybe that’s my 076 super territory?

 

[CausticUC]

Our older class of saws I have come to the personal choice of letting the saw do the work. Sort of a break before tossing the results around.

Actually, when I sink the dawgs in and use a bit of pressure I find that the bar oil I am running makes a big difference. Usually I can pull heavier running winter than I can summer in hardwood. I've never actually checked but I am guessing there is a temperature difference on the bar and the summer can not keep up.

But that is just me, I am not sure how gum compares to plum, big leaf maple, and apple.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Our older class of saws I have come to the personal choice of letting the saw do the work. Sort of a break before tossing the results around.

Actually, when I sink the dawgs in and use a bit of pressure I find that the bar oil I am running makes a big difference. Usually I can pull heavier running winter than I can summer in hardwood. I've never actually checked but I am guessing there is a temperature difference on the bar and the summer can not keep up.

But that is just me, I am not sure how gum compares to plum, big leaf maple, and apple.

Hey mate thanks, so would you be happy using the saw that was cutting like this or would you take some hook out ? I have cut both plum and apple. plum and apple are like cutting butter in comparison to gum wood.

Basically it’s self feeding really well, chips are great, but I can’t put pressure on the saw with the dogs or it will bog down.

Here are the chips, remember it’s dry hard Australian gum, not soft pine so chip size is relative

 

[CausticUC]

I am curious if you are running a thick or thin bar oil?

If it's that hard, I'd be happy that the saw wants to do the work for you! I imagine it must be similar to arbutus and the chain and bar heats up a lot faster if you put pressure on it?

 

[albert]

Richen up the H some

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hi Jerry! They are set to the hard setting on the stihl progressive raker depth gauge. It’s self feeding nicely in all the cuts (I’m not putting any pressure on the saw at all in any of the cuts apart from some at 2.15). It just feels like it’s on the limit, would you reduce the hook a little if it was you cutting? I expected more from an 87cc with a 20” bar... sure it’s Australian hard wood, but still..

I expected to be able to lean on it and it keep pulling. I guess I’m expecting too much. Maybe that’s my 076 super territory?

If you want to lean on it then yes, less hook but for self feed then leave it as is. I think it could use a bit more fuel on the H , it really helps when the load comes on. Good bar oil, plenty of it also is a plus when the chain is under load even more so on a hard nose bar. Your chips look good coming from very hard wood, they will not be long and strung out, they are chips and not dust, that`s good. I would rather have a self feeding saw setup ,its far less tiring for full days of cutting. Pushing down on the saw to load it is not the way to go for any type of cutting I do, pulling up on the rear handle only forces the chain, no need to force the chain when sharp. I could guarantee you if we were running the same saws side by side in the same log that the self feeding saw will cut faster, overloading the chain drags the RPM down, slows chain speed and although the chain may make bigger chips it will not cut faster. That saw is not a high revving saw like the later vertical cylinder 044, 046 and 066 saws are, they cut with RPM the 056 was a slower more of a torque saw that still pulled a chain fine, just don`t slow it down by over pressuring the chain.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I am curious if you are running a thick or thin bar oil?

If it's that hard, I'd be happy that the saw wants to do the work for you! I imagine it must be similar to arbutus and the chain and bar heats up a lot faster if you put pressure on it?

Oh sorry mate I missed that part, I’m running the standard stihl bar oil, not the tacky stuff, just standard. i think it could be the sprocket and chain combo. It’s a new chain and old sprocket and so it goes tight then loose depending on what part of the rotation I’m on. So I just have it a bit looser.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If you want to lean on it then yes, less hook but for self feed then leave it as is. I think it could use a bit more fuel on the H , it really helps when the load comes on. Good bar oil, plenty of it also is a plus when the chain is under load even more so on a hard nose bar. Your chips look good coming from very hard wood, they will not be long and strung out, they are chips and not dust, that`s good. I would rather have a self feeding saw setup ,its far less tiring for full days of cutting. Pushing down on the saw to load it is not the way to go for any type of cutting I do, pulling up on the rear handle only forces the chain, no need to force the chain when sharp. I could guarantee you if we were running the same saws side by side in the same log that the self feeding saw will cut faster, overloading the chain drags the RPM down, slows chain speed and although the chain may make bigger chips it will not cut faster. That saw is not a high revving saw like the later vertical cylinder 044, 046 and 066 saws are, they cut with RPM the 056 was a slower more of a torque saw that still pulled a chain fine, just don`t slow it down by over pressuring the chain.

Ok great thanks mate, I’ll take it back out and try a little more on the H and see if it helps. The oiler is set all the way up and is oiling the bar well. I mentioned in my comment to caustic that the sprocket / chain combo, 1 being new one old seems to tighten and loosen the chain depending on what part of the rotation it’s on so I set it a touch loose and seems to be ok. I’ll see if I can get a new clutch drum / spur drive.

Thanks as always mate!