Interesting that you responded "Lol". Not many people know about the simple compression test for chain saws and other 2-cycle engine equipment that I described for you in post #19. Good luck with your new compression gauge.
064 & ms660 compression test?
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MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yes sir thank you for for your comments and yea believe me it's always a good feeling when you can grab the pole hand on the saw and lift the saw off the ground and it doesn't rotate. Lol
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Well I stopped the Mac tool truck today and to find out I new the fella that's in my area. Lol. But a bummer the valve in the kits he sells are all light spring with a red stripe so I guess I'm going to have to order the wight one off ebay I guess uuug. Sooner or later I will get the right valve. Lol
smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
The mac may have the red stripe as long as they are a light spring pressure for testers and not tires you will be fine.
Here is some info about compression gauges for small engines, how to make your own, how to make the special valves, etc. at this link. I followed the instructions and easily built myself a spare gauge using the instructions so as if I see a engine with low compression I can go to a second gauge set-up.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
Had couple of good auto mechanics that brought me saws to repair that they had completely overhauled due to not running due to their automotive compression gauge indicating low compression and their gauge read lower after their overhaul and the saws still not running. When I told them that their AUTOMOTIVE compression gauge was not reading correct for a chainsaw engine, they were unaware. Both saws had bad carbs.
Also the drop test don't always indicate a bad non useable chainsaw saw. I seen a little Stihl 170 once that would drop slowly by holding the pull rope, would not have give 25 cents for the saw but it would start run and cut good????
I never checked the compression, sure wish I had done a compression check so as to remove the mystery from my brain. That was 2 years ago and the guy is still using it as a trim saw today.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
Here is a special low pressure schrader valve for compression gauges Milton and Lisle part number's and I seen them on flea bay as still available.
Milton 1251-2 @ about $5 each
Lisle 20100 @ about $7
The NAPA 700-9556 valves mentioned are obsolete.
The Milton and Lisle valves are still available and on flea bay.
You will find that lots of good auto mechanics and good parts counter people do not know that these SPECIAL low pressure schrader valves ARE NOT REGULAR tire valves and think you are crazy paying big bucks for a tire schrader valve.
Also at the link you can read about where I built my own low pressure schrader valves by taking the LONG spring type schrader tire valves and removing turns from the spring. I modded the valves after I knew for sure what the correct valves compression should indicate. It's quite common for a low pressure schrader valve to not back check or leak back slowly (gauge does not hold at max pressure and slowly leaks back) because a small piece of carbon from the engine will get in the valve. If so just gently try cleaning the check valve seal part with a mild cleaner.
AND once you get a small engine (chainsaw) compression tester reading correctly, it's best to not use it for Automotive engines or loan it to Bubba.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
Had couple of good auto mechanics that brought me saws to repair that they had completely overhauled due to not running due to their automotive compression gauge indicating low compression and their gauge read lower after their overhaul and the saws still not running. When I told them that their AUTOMOTIVE compression gauge was not reading correct for a chainsaw engine, they were unaware. Both saws had bad carbs.
Also the drop test don't always indicate a bad non useable chainsaw saw. I seen a little Stihl 170 once that would drop slowly by holding the pull rope, would not have give 25 cents for the saw but it would start run and cut good????
I never checked the compression, sure wish I had done a compression check so as to remove the mystery from my brain. That was 2 years ago and the guy is still using it as a trim saw today.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
Here is a special low pressure schrader valve for compression gauges Milton and Lisle part number's and I seen them on flea bay as still available.
Milton 1251-2 @ about $5 each
Lisle 20100 @ about $7
The NAPA 700-9556 valves mentioned are obsolete.
The Milton and Lisle valves are still available and on flea bay.
You will find that lots of good auto mechanics and good parts counter people do not know that these SPECIAL low pressure schrader valves ARE NOT REGULAR tire valves and think you are crazy paying big bucks for a tire schrader valve.
Also at the link you can read about where I built my own low pressure schrader valves by taking the LONG spring type schrader tire valves and removing turns from the spring. I modded the valves after I knew for sure what the correct valves compression should indicate. It's quite common for a low pressure schrader valve to not back check or leak back slowly (gauge does not hold at max pressure and slowly leaks back) because a small piece of carbon from the engine will get in the valve. If so just gently try cleaning the check valve seal part with a mild cleaner.
AND once you get a small engine (chainsaw) compression tester reading correctly, it's best to not use it for Automotive engines or loan it to Bubba.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you very much for sharing your information with me I really appreciate it what you just did is awesome.
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