12 volt dremel type sharpeners worth it or waste ? Best Brand ?

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Moss Man said:
The chain sharpening jig I mentioned earlier
Click to expand...

Nice simple jig. Nice of you to make the descriptive video.

Thanks.

Rep sent.

I started out to make something like that, but got bogged down thinking about too many details. I ended up with scrap .050 and .063 bars. Pulled out the sprockets so that they work with any pitch chain. Don't clamp the drive links as securely as yours, but works OK.

Philbert
 
Moss Man Scores!

Moss Man said:
The chain sharpening jig I mentioned earlier;

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Click to expand...
Great idea for all file sharpeners. For longer chains, I would simply bump the length of the angle iron jaws to 16" apiece or more. Just take the bar length and subtact 4" to set the length of the jaws. That way you could file half the teeth on about two-thirds of the loop without having to move the chain.

Also, look for an old bullet desk lamp that would sit on the bench while you work.
 
Dremel & Carbide Burrs has worked for me

I've done all my sharpening over the past 6+ years with my Dremel and these diamond burrs from Lee Valley Tools. I've been very happy with the method, it works fairly quickly and I don't have to take the bar off the saw.

Over this period I have only been cutting firewood, although we go through maybe 4 full cords a year as it's our only heat source at the farm.

Yesterday I bought a grinder as I need to make some ripping chains to go with the CSM I recently bought. I'll see how that compares with the burrs. I will mention that, largely spurred by comments here, I bought some new files the other day too, so I'm going to try hand filing again as well.

cheers,
Andrew
 
What company makes the best round files for hand sharpening the chains ?

To tell you the truth, I forgot how to figure out what size file I need for
any particular size chain. I may just have to take an old dull chain into
Home Depot to see which size most closely fits the tooth curvature.

I am going to check out LeeValley to see if any of their round dremel
stones have diamond dust in them.
Scott
 
I've been useing a 110 Volt model for over 40 years. It is a dremal brand. I buy good stones and change them often. Just like hand fileing you have to learn how to use it properly to get good sharp chains and ones that last a long time.
I bought my dad a 12V model back in the 1980's for his sharpeing needs. He didn't care for it because you needed a place to set the saw in the field to sharpen it and back in the shop you needed a 12V power supply of some sort. He went out and bought his own dremal brand that is the 110V model. When he passed away I got both of them so have the 12Vmodel I take to the woods with me instead of an extra chain and tools to change the chain. My tractor isn't as tall as dads was so I can use the hood as a work bench. I gave the 110V Model to my father in law. He has since passed away but I have not asked Mom if I can have the shapener back.

I would never pay to have a chain sharpened. My brother in law did and they all ran in a curve, fine for small dia. wood but never made it thru wood 10inches in dia. wood.

:D Al
 
It is beginning to sound like to me that the satisfaction of using a dremel type
tool depends on the quality of the stones used. So who makes the bests
stones. It appears the dremel brand stones wear out quickly.

For that matter, I see there are many brands of round hand files
such as Huskavarna, Peferd, Oregon, and an American Firm called
Save-Edge... these sold at Baileys Online website... not to mention
the generic file brands sold at Home Depot etc.

Any favorites among you? I see some are single cut and some are
double cut round files. Has anyone noticed a difference and developed
a preference ? I assume the difference between a low quality
and hi quality file could make all the difference in sharpening the
chain saws.
 
Don,t know about the 12 volt dremel . Use the 120 volt dremel . Found that the stones last a lot longer than a file .A file only works 2 or 3 times for me ready to get rid of it after that . My hands always hurt after filing. The dremel sharpens every bit as good as file . Learn to use it . You will be happy with it . Be aware that when change stone size , it will need shimed different .
 
Granberg?

I'm surprised nobody mentioned Granberg's 12 v sharpener that has been available for nearly 20 years or so. I imagine I've sharpened about 100 chains with one of tnem. No, the Granberg is not a professional chain sharpener, but it worked quite awhile for me.

Look at it this way. Many pro loggers don't even bother to sharpen chains with any grinder. Occasionally, they take a cutting break and file sharpen a chain with the bar over their shoulder. When that gets old and when the chain is really "rocked", they throw it away and replace it with a new loop that they make from a long reel.

On the other hand, I like to save what I can. So, I grind sharpen all of my chain loops with my Oregon 511a several times and save a bunch of time and dough.
 
Like the wood md above, I bought the Oregon grinder and never looked back.

I can honestly say it has paid itself off and delivers a factory edge every time I use it.
I take my time and "peck" at the chain making sure I don't overheat the steel.
Learning curve was short and it delivers a consistent result each time.

I touch up 2 to 3 times in the field with a file.

As for the dremel tool, can't find good stones so I gave up using them as I was using one per two chains.
 
My preference is also a bench grinder (I also have an Oregon), but they are quite a bit more expensive, and less convenient for field use. I have used one with a generator, but not something I suggest for general use.

My comments on the Dremel were based on being able to use it for more things than just sharpening chains if value was an issue for the OP.

I forgot that the 12V sharpeners use threaded stones, instead of the smooth shank Dremel stones, but Bailey's sells some aftermarket stones.

Whatever way you go (12v, files, bench grinder, etc.) buy good quality stuff so that you can get the job done and not just get frustrated.

Philbert
 
aokpops said:
A file only works 2 or 3 times for me ready to get rid of it after that . My hands always hurt after filing.
Click to expand...

WOW! I buy good quality files (Stihl, Husqvarna, etc.), give the file a quarter turn between cutters, and use a file card every 3-4 teeth; I can sharpen 15-20 chains before I wear out a file. Over-sized, well finished, hardwood file handles will keep your hands from hurting.
 
Whitespider said:
WOW! I buy good quality files (Stihl, Husqvarna, etc.), give the file a quarter turn between cutters, and use a file card every 3-4 teeth; I can sharpen 15-20 chains before I wear out a file. Over-sized, well finished, hardwood file handles will keep your hands from hurting.
Click to expand...

I agree, even if you don't have a file card to clean files, you can use a wire brush to clean out the grooves in the file. I don't necessarily clean the file after every 3-4 teeth but as I switch between right hand and left hand cutters you had better bet I clean the file. I don't think a file ever really gets too "worn out" to use. It just doesn't work as nice as a brand new file.
 
I was at Baileys-online.com and saw they had several name name round files
available for sale with not a big difference between the most and least expensive.
One thing I did see was that one company had double cut files and the others
had single cut files. Has anyone ever done any testing as to which files
have the hardest and sharpest teeth and last the longest ?
Scott in Atlanta
 

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