SawTroll
Information Collector
Change it out for a 67 dl one - chances are very good that is the right number, if the bar has about the same profile and length as the Stihl 16" bars.Jack Russell said:
16" bar
- Thread starter Jack Russell
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
MikeInParadise
ArboristSite Guru
The bar number is 3003-003-7114
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
MikeInParadise said:
I'm sure your number is correct, but it's no longer on Stihl lists... which isn't unusual with bars, but makes it hard for me to track down. All the 3003-xxx-7xxx bars I see listed are/were .325 x.063. On the side of your bar there should be a symbol of a bar groove, and beside it a number of either 1.3mm,1.6mm, .050, or .063. Check that yours isn't a .063 (1.6mm) bar with a .050 chain.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Originally Posted by Jack Russell
... For some reason I had the feeling I may not be using good judgment running the shorter bar. ...
reply by:
JACK RUSSEL:
Yes I do this (16 inch) also, and love it... just have to be careful that the WOT isn't exceeded - if you primarily use a short bar, set the max RPM with that bar. It will then be lower for longer bars, but it's better to err on the side of caution. if you have an MS260-pro without an adjustable H, then check it, but they are very conservative anyhow.
... For some reason I had the feeling I may not be using good judgment running the shorter bar. ...
reply by:
SawTroll said:
JACK RUSSEL:
Yes I do this (16 inch) also, and love it... just have to be careful that the WOT isn't exceeded - if you primarily use a short bar, set the max RPM with that bar. It will then be lower for longer bars, but it's better to err on the side of caution. if you have an MS260-pro without an adjustable H, then check it, but they are very conservative anyhow.
MikeInParadise
ArboristSite Guru
Only in Canada..Pity(from red rose tea commercial)
No it is definitely .050 numbers on bar below part number are:
050 1 3 325 67
Now this dealer only started selling Stihl within the last year(was and still is an echo dealer) so I would assume that his stock is fairly new.
Now this also might be a Canadian thing as well.
Lakeside53 said:
No it is definitely .050 numbers on bar below part number are:
050 1 3 325 67
Now this dealer only started selling Stihl within the last year(was and still is an echo dealer) so I would assume that his stock is fairly new.
Now this also might be a Canadian thing as well.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
MikeInParadise said:
Interesting.. Anyone else out there end up with a recent .050 stihl bar in the 24 - >66 mount type?
Are you in Canada? hmmm maybe I should have noticed from your location! County versions do change these things...
Jack Russell
ArboristSite Operative
Lakeside53 said:
You have told me something I did not know. Could you post more information on this. As saying goes Man have I got egg on my face
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakeside53
Originally Posted by Jack Russell
... For some reason I had the feeling I may not be using good judgment running the shorter bar. ...
reply by:Lakeside53
JACK RUSSEL:
Yes I do this (16 inch) also, and love it... just have to be careful that the WOT isn't exceeded - if you primarily use a short bar, set the max RPM with that bar. It will then be lower for longer bars, but it's better to err on the side of caution. if you have an MS260-pro without an adjustable H, then check it, but they are very conservative anyhow.
This came up in a thread last week, where if you tune a saw with a short bar (i.e. 16 inch) to say 14,000, and put on a long bar (28) and the WOT drops to (example) 12,500, do you then re-adjust the carb leaner to get back to the 14,000. You can see the problem - now you have a longer bar but a leaner saw. Which is correct? I bounced this off my Stihl technical contact yesterday. They use the example in the Silver certification class out here of a guy tuning his 064 with a 32 inch bar, then putting on a 16 and blowing up the motor due to over speed. While these are two different things, they are related. Firstly, the MAX RPM is just that - MAX. You don't have to set WOT to MAX, you can set it slightly richer and be below that. Secondly, you need the correct mixture to keep engine temperature low enough. It turns out that running it as lean as you can before exceeding maximum temperatures give the best power, but at the expense of life expectancy, AND more importantly, you'll have no buffer for changing conditions (fuel, weather, bar length etc). While it's popular on AS to wring the last drop out of a saw, it' may not be the wisest thing to do for a work saws that you aren't watching continuously.
What would I do? 1) always adjust the carb for a bar length you use most often, preferably the shorter one. 2) stay a tad bit richer than "perfect WOT". Timed cuts are the only real way to see if the richer setting materially alters your throughput.
o.k. everyone - jump in and disagree...
Originally Posted by Lakeside53
Originally Posted by Jack Russell
... For some reason I had the feeling I may not be using good judgment running the shorter bar. ...
reply by:Lakeside53
JACK RUSSEL:
Yes I do this (16 inch) also, and love it... just have to be careful that the WOT isn't exceeded - if you primarily use a short bar, set the max RPM with that bar. It will then be lower for longer bars, but it's better to err on the side of caution. if you have an MS260-pro without an adjustable H, then check it, but they are very conservative anyhow.
Jack Russell said:
This came up in a thread last week, where if you tune a saw with a short bar (i.e. 16 inch) to say 14,000, and put on a long bar (28) and the WOT drops to (example) 12,500, do you then re-adjust the carb leaner to get back to the 14,000. You can see the problem - now you have a longer bar but a leaner saw. Which is correct? I bounced this off my Stihl technical contact yesterday. They use the example in the Silver certification class out here of a guy tuning his 064 with a 32 inch bar, then putting on a 16 and blowing up the motor due to over speed. While these are two different things, they are related. Firstly, the MAX RPM is just that - MAX. You don't have to set WOT to MAX, you can set it slightly richer and be below that. Secondly, you need the correct mixture to keep engine temperature low enough. It turns out that running it as lean as you can before exceeding maximum temperatures give the best power, but at the expense of life expectancy, AND more importantly, you'll have no buffer for changing conditions (fuel, weather, bar length etc). While it's popular on AS to wring the last drop out of a saw, it' may not be the wisest thing to do for a work saws that you aren't watching continuously.
What would I do? 1) always adjust the carb for a bar length you use most often, preferably the shorter one. 2) stay a tad bit richer than "perfect WOT". Timed cuts are the only real way to see if the richer setting materially alters your throughput.
o.k. everyone - jump in and disagree...
SawTroll
Information Collector
The carb on my 361 is set with the 15" bar and 3/8x8 sprocket.
As I use a 7-pin with the 18", I dont think it will slow down unloaded WOT rpms much......
As I use a 7-pin with the 18", I dont think it will slow down unloaded WOT rpms much......
musher
ArboristSite Operative
Tuning
Not to perpetuate the hijacking of this thread, but since we're on the subject . . .
I'm not quite clear about this either. When I read the saw tuning page on Madsen's web site, it gives me the impression that I should tune the saw unloaded (no bar/chain). Other sources, including Stihl's service manuals give me a different impression. I would expect that the higher the load, the longer the bar/chain, I well end up tuning the high end more lean than without.
Which way is best? I lean toward no bar/chain, which will leave it a little richer.
Not to perpetuate the hijacking of this thread, but since we're on the subject . . .
I'm not quite clear about this either. When I read the saw tuning page on Madsen's web site, it gives me the impression that I should tune the saw unloaded (no bar/chain). Other sources, including Stihl's service manuals give me a different impression. I would expect that the higher the load, the longer the bar/chain, I well end up tuning the high end more lean than without.
Which way is best? I lean toward no bar/chain, which will leave it a little richer.
Jack Russell
ArboristSite Operative
musher said:
I am with Mike on this. The book is fine on this subject But the advice fron a Hands On member(that has been there and done it)is Best.
Regardless of bar length, the saw should sputter a bit at WOT with no load. It shouldn't be screaming. Some people call this sound "four stroking" because instead of the standard two-stroke screaming sound, you'll hear a sputtering sound from the exhaust.
It's easy to do also IF you have an adjustable carb: just warm up your saw. Set in on the ground and place a small screwdriver on the H screw. Run the saw wide open. Does it scream to max rpm or sputter. If it sputters, try turning the H screw in until it screams and then back out a quarter turn or so until it sputters. This might take all of 10 seconds to do.
If the engine is screaming without any adjustments, go to WOT and back out the H screw until it sputters. Go in a quarter turn at a time until it screams and then back it out a quarter turn and it should sputter.
I find my saws run fine at 1/4 turn rich. Also I usually do this twice a day when cutting firewood, in the morning when the air is cool and after lunch when the air is warmer.
It's easy to do also IF you have an adjustable carb: just warm up your saw. Set in on the ground and place a small screwdriver on the H screw. Run the saw wide open. Does it scream to max rpm or sputter. If it sputters, try turning the H screw in until it screams and then back out a quarter turn or so until it sputters. This might take all of 10 seconds to do.
If the engine is screaming without any adjustments, go to WOT and back out the H screw until it sputters. Go in a quarter turn at a time until it screams and then back it out a quarter turn and it should sputter.
I find my saws run fine at 1/4 turn rich. Also I usually do this twice a day when cutting firewood, in the morning when the air is cool and after lunch when the air is warmer.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
musher said:
Just put on the bar/chain you use and tune it.
If you don't put on a bar/chain, that is - some load, it's much harder to hear the 4-stroking. Many saws I tune have no distinct "burble" point - just a continuous change in muffler tone. I find the larger saws are easier to tune by ear than the smaller saws. None of this works on saws with ignition speed limiters.
Stay conservative, unless you are racing for competition.
SawTroll
Information Collector
The "Canadian connection" is probably stronger than you thought when you wrote the above.MikeInParadise said:No it is definitely .050 numbers on bar below part number are:
050 1 3 325 67
Now this also might be a Canadian thing as well.
The first thing that struck me when I saw the picture was that it is definitively not a German made Stihl bar.
The marking on the bar is stamped like on Oregon bars, while the marking is more tidy and etched on the German bars. The info is also organized in another way.
Then it is the 003 in the middle of the part number - I think it indicates "made in Canada", but I am not sure of that.
The paint is also flaking a little, more pr less at random, and that does not happen on a German made Stihl bar.
This morning I remembered this tread.
I think that there is little doubt that it is one of the re-badged Oregon bars that Stihl had made at a time where the German made bars were in short supply in North America.
Last edited:
