1983 Husqvarna 266SE Rebuild

[mwiltbank]

I'm looking for help and advice with a saw I purchased last fall. My wife's grandpa bought it new and hasn't used it much in the last 15 years so I offered to buy, used it for a few hours bucking wood and it ran great but then quite running. Messed with a new fuel line and filter still wouldn't start. Replaced fuel vent, no start. Did a compression test and only had about 70psi, tore into and the piston is scarred as well as the cylinder.

Is there a kit I can purchase that will have everything I need? If not where should I be getting parts from? Should I be looking for parts to upgrade and improve hp? I'd love to get this saw back into tip top shape and have it around for another 40 years! Anyways, thanks!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Cyl looks ok. Some 320 wet/dry sandpaper should clean that up.
Probably replace the piston/ring. But, try cleaning it up and see what happens…very few hrs on that saw, looking at the piston.
Go OE if you can find one, Meteor if not.
most likely air leak caused…new seals, or, at the carb but, you’ll need to do a full vacuum and pressure test to find exactly where the leak is. Id guess time wasn’t kind to a rubber or plastic part somewhere in the mix.
I wouldn’t do much hot rodding to it as they are fantastic bone stock.

im still looking for an 266xp project saw as that model was my first bought saw in ‘85.

enjoy your build.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

As mentioned previously that cylinder can be easily salvaged. New piston preferably OEM if you can find one. Rebuild the carb, new crank seals, o-rings, and x-ring. Also make sure the carb gasket and intake block gasket are in good shape. I haven’t seen any problems with the intake block gasket but have seen issues with carb gasket not fully sealing the pulse port. You’ve got a nice saw there it deserves to live again.

 

[Bob95065]

That family of saws is my favorite. Lots of power and easy to work on.

If I were you I would replace all the rubber parts: seals ans o rings. That family used a seal holder on the flywheel side and the seal pressed into the oil pump on the PTO side. Both had an orange behind them. I've seen scored pistons on several saws as a result.

Research on this board how to do a pressure vacuum test. That's the best way to find a leak. Don't run that saw until it's right.

 

[mwiltbank]

Cyl looks ok. Some 320 wet/dry sandpaper should clean that up.
Probably replace the piston/ring. But, try cleaning it up and see what happens…very few hrs on that saw, looking at the piston.
Go OE if you can find one, Meteor if not.
most likely air leak caused…new seals, or, at the carb but, you’ll need to do a full vacuum and pressure test to find exactly where the leak is. Id guess time wasn’t kind to a rubber or plastic part somewhere in the mix.
I wouldn’t do much hot rodding to it as they are fantastic bone stock.

im still looking for an 266xp project saw as that model was my first bought saw in ‘85.

enjoy your build.

Thanks for your input! I definitely thought it felt good while it was running, everything I've read about them people say they're really good. I talked with a few shops in the area and they all say it's not working rebuilding, probably because they want you to spend money on their new ones. Crazy!

 

[mwiltbank]

As mentioned previously that cylinder can be easily salvaged. New piston preferably OEM if you can find one. Rebuild the carb, new crank seals, o-rings, and x-ring. Also make sure the carb gasket and intake block gasket are in good shape. I haven’t seen any problems with the intake block gasket but have seen issues with carb gasket not fully sealing the pulse port. You’ve got a nice saw there it deserves to live again.

Would you have any recommendations for where to buy seals and o-rings? Also while I have it torn down should I replace bearings?

 

[mwiltbank]

That family of saws is my favorite. Lots of power and easy to work on.

If I were you I would replace all the rubber parts: seals ans o rings. That family used a seal holder on the flywheel side and the seal pressed into the oil pump on the PTO side. Both had an orange behind them. I've seen scored pistons on several saws as a result.

Research on this board how to do a pressure vacuum test. That's the best way to find a leak. Don't run that saw until it's right.

Thanks, I'll look into the pressure vacuum test. What is an orange that was behind the seal?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Would you have any recommendations for where to buy seals and o-rings? Also while I have it torn down should I replace bearings?

Judging by the lack of wear on that piston the bearings should be fine. If the crank spins freely with no hesitation all should be good. Inspect the bottom of the crankcase with a flashlight for any sign of bits of metal. If clean flush it all with straight gas for a while and turn upside down, drain, air dry to evaporate the gas. inspect what comes out.
parts shouldn’t be too hard to find.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Would you have any recommendations for where to buy seals and o-rings? Also while I have it torn down should I replace bearings?

Check the Husqvarna website. It takes a bit of navigation but you can purchase parts direct. I wouldn’t replace crank bearings unless absolutely necessary. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

 

[Bob95065]

Judging by the lack of wear on that piston the bearings should be fine. If the crank spins freely with no hesitation all should be good. Inspect the bottom of the crankcase with a flashlight for any sign of bits of metal. If clean flush it all with straight gas for a while and turn upside down, drain, air dry to evaporate the gas. inspect what comes out.
parts shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Orange behind the seal should be o ring behind the seal.

Big fingers + tablet keys + spellchecker = weird typos

 

[singinwoodwackr]

No pistons but I might have a ring. Just need the pt#

 

[Gord404]

The replacement piston might not have that full bottom skirt piece but husky did away with that in newer models, they work fine and as far as meteor pistons are concerned Imo they are just as good quality as oem , use oem carb block gaskes-usualy green.- I have rebuilt quite a number of them.

 

[NSEric]

I'd sand the cylinder to remove the transfer then put a new piston/rings, seals and gaskets in it.
It looks like there's a lot of carbon in the exhaust port and I bet the muffler is full of it too.
Clean all that out good or it will blow up again when you work it hard and get it hot.