2x4 or alum channel for beam machine?

[Stealth]

I picked up one of those beam machine devices of ebay as I want to mill some logs into 4x4's or 6x6's...Wondering if thered be any advantages to using some aluminum stock (pre-drilled in a few places for nailing to the logs) over 2x4's? Seems like I should be able to get a straighter more accurate cut with the alum?
Thanks in advance!

 

[TSRuff]

My reasons for using a 2x6 over aluminum channel with my mini mill are twofold:
1. If I bang the 2x6 into a tree in the woods it doesn't get a permanant bend in it.
2. After doing #1 a sufficient number of times where it does start to get a bend, it costs me $2 to get a replacement.

I can buy a lot of 2x6s for the same cost as a 10' piece of aluminum channel. Plus, with any of these vertical mills, beam machine, mini mill or otherwise, it isn't possible (at least not for me) to get it accurate enough for aluminum channel to make a difference over a 2x6 that is maybe 1/8" off over its length.

Just my two cents...

 

[BobL]

I picked up one of those beam machine devices of ebay as I want to mill some logs into 4x4's or 6x6's...Wondering if thered be any advantages to using some aluminum stock (pre-drilled in a few places for nailing to the logs) over 2x4's? Seems like I should be able to get a straighter more accurate cut with the alum?
Thanks in advance!

I presume you mean ally angle on the corners of the 2 x 4? If so they will need to be recessed into the wood to fit the rider plate.

In terms of accuracy it won't make much difference since the beam machine is not designed for accurate cuts anyway. Whenever a chainsaw bar is held only at one end there is going to be a certain amount of slop in the cuts it makes.

It's probably OK but the one sided clamps on those things look like they can't hold much tension. Certainly the earlier ones were failing so the newer ones have been beefed up a bit more but I'm not convinced it's enough.

 

[Stealth]

I presume you mean ally angle on the corners of the 2 x 4? If so they will need to be recessed into the wood to fit the rider plate.
In terms of accuracy it won't make much difference since the beam machine is not designed for accurate cuts anyway. Whenever a chainsaw bar is held only at one end there is going to be a certain amount of slop in the cuts it makes.

It's probably OK but the one sided clamps on those things look like they can't hold much tension. Certainly the earlier ones were failing so the newer ones have been beefed up a bit more but I'm not convinced it's enough.

Thanks guys.

Bob, I was thinking of just using a piece of alum C-Channel instead of a wood 2x4,6.

 

[BobL]

Thanks guys.

Bob, I was thinking of just using a piece of alum C-Channel instead of a wood 2x4,6.

If you can get that size - sure should work fine but see TSRuffs post, it's gonna be expensive . . . . . .

 

[billstuewe]

I use one quite a bit, made a custom board for it since a standard 2x4 was a bit sloppy. I made it a tight fit that would not slide and then ran it thru my planer on edge until it slid without slop. Be sure to round the edges of the board so they do not bind in the corners of the c- channel of the beam machine.

 

[striperswaper]

to help make mine cut more true and take the slop out I pop riveted 1/8" (I think) flat stock on the inside edge opposite the saw. its about twice as long as the BM. the combination of length and slop reduction seemed to help a noticeable amount

 

[Brmorgan]

If you can get that size - sure should work fine but see TSRuffs post, it's gonna be expensive . . . . . .

Yeah the size might be an issue; 2X4 nominal width is actually 3.5", and beam machines are a bit sloppy on that, so it might be a challenge finding a good fit.

Bob, just a couple weeks back I looked into getting some 2" X 6" aluminum tube with 3/16" sidewalls to use as a guide for both my mills. It is very sturdy stuff and no heavier than packing a 2X10 board around. I have to order a 20' length at minimum, which the local steel shop quoted me about $180 for. I didn't think that was really all that bad. I want a 14' piece for my main guide rail, and another 10' or so for a shorter one would be nice, so I might see if I can get a 24' length, but either way it won't be until next year.

 

[BobL]

Yeah the size might be an issue; 2X4 nominal width is actually 3.5", and beam machines are a bit sloppy on that, so it might be a challenge finding a good fit.

Bob, just a couple weeks back I looked into getting some 2" X 6" aluminum tube with 3/16" sidewalls to use as a guide for both my mills. It is very sturdy stuff and no heavier than packing a 2X10 board around. I have to order a 20' length at minimum, which the local steel shop quoted me about $180 for. I didn't think that was really all that bad. I want a 14' piece for my main guide rail, and another 10' or so for a shorter one would be nice, so I might see if I can get a 24' length, but either way it won't be until next year.

I've also looked at that stuff, Brickies and concrete form workers here use it and the 4 x 2 size. I am always on the look out for used pieces of this stuff but it tends to be pretty abused by the time it is sold.

 

[820wards]

My reasons for using a 2x6 over aluminum channel with my mini mill are twofold:
1. If I bang the 2x6 into a tree in the woods it doesn't get a permanant bend in it.
2. After doing #1 a sufficient number of times where it does start to get a bend, it costs me $2 to get a replacement.

I can buy a lot of 2x6s for the same cost as a 10' piece of aluminum channel. Plus, with any of these vertical mills, beam machine, mini mill or otherwise, it isn't possible (at least not for me) to get it accurate enough for aluminum channel to make a difference over a 2x6 that is maybe 1/8" off over its length.

Just my two cents...

Ditto! I to have used a 2x6 rail system and they wrk just fine and are inexpensive to replace. Here is a picture of the rail system I madfe for my mini-mil system. The two pieces of 3/4 x3/4 angle at the locak steel supplier was $12 and the redwood 2x6x8' was $8. So for $20 bucks and a fewe drive screws your ready to go and using the angle iron it can be custom fitted to your mill as I did with mine.

jerry-

Mini-Mill fitted to 2x6x8' rail system.

Mini-Mill and Rail board in operation.

 

[guitarborist]

If you want a precise beam machine you can make one like I did. Check out this thread http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1068751#post1068751

I spent more money than a 2x6 but the extruded beam is not going to bend unless you really screw up, the stuff is very strong and a bit heavy and a little pricey but that is covered in the thread.

 

[Stealth]

slick work, guitarborist, 820wards.

Great responses all around in this thread so far! Really gets the wheels turning.

 

[820wards]

If you want a precise beam machine you can make one like I did. Check out this thread http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1068751#post1068751

I spent more money than a 2x6 but the extruded beam is not going to bend unless you really screw up, the stuff is very strong and a bit heavy and a little pricey but that is covered in the thread.

That stuff is over kill, but sure looks nice and I'll bet you get nice straight cuts. Nice work!

jerry-

 

[820wards]

slick work, guitarborist, 820wards.

Great responses all around in this thread so far! Really gets the wheels turning.

Guitarborist has the Cadillac I have the Chevy.... Both do the job.

jerry-