ClintC
C's Tree Needs
So I put a carb kit in a 338xpt (1st ever, seemed pretty straight forward), but it still leaks gas from the exhaust. What might I have done wrong? / What do I need to do to fix problem? Thanx in advance!!!
338xpt gas leak (exhaust)
- Thread starter ClintC
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
1. Did you use an OEM or aftermarket kit?
2. Did you pressure test the fuel inlet of the carb when you were done? It should hold 7-10 PSI indefinitely?
3. Did you reuse the original metering lever or the one that came with the kit? Did you check/set the metering lever height?
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
1. not sure, but purchased from husky dealer
2. did not
3. replaced meter lever/checked height
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
new jet or new carb, I'm a saw repair/diagnostic novice. zama carb is what dealer suggested
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
The ONLY way that this can happen is if you have an unchecked fuel leak THROUGH the carb. The ONLY place that this can happen is at the needle and seat. This is why a pressure test will confirm a leak. Did a replacement needle come in the new kit?
You can attempt to clean the needle seat by cutting the head off of a q-tip, spray some carb leaner on the shaft and stick it in the needle hole and spin it around with some downward pressure. Also be sure that the carb screen (opposite the needle seat) is clean and fully seated.
You did assemble the metering gasket and diaphragm in the correct order? Usually the gasket goes next to the carb body followed by the metering diaphragm.
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
It was last summer, so can't recall order for sure (but followed paper instructions), kit came with a needle, "a screen" sounds familiar but didn't clean needle hole as you explained and didn't know of pressure test. Will get another kit (or would installed one be reusable) and try again with added "cleaning" info (it was my understanding that the diaphragm was the problem before the build). Thanx again for the knowledge
super3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does it not have a Zama on it?
You can replace the nozzle easily. under 10 bucks.
Chainsawr has a used carb for 25.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Carb kit may be reusable unless it has been stored with gas in it. The main thing to look for is that the metering diaphragm should be soft and flexible. If it is stiff or "crinkles" it's done. A new/good one you should be able to blow on it and see it bend. BTW, what carb maker and model number is it? Should be molded/stamped into the carb body somewhere. Photos of all markings would help.
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
zama el19a 37a flip phone=crap pictures (especially close up/detailed). saw/carb stores dry, pulling apart now, i remember the old diaphragm being crinkly now that you mention
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is the parts breakdown (IPL) for that carb:
http://www.zamacorp.com/tclist.html?cnum=C1Q-EL19A
It also shows the correct assembly for the various pieces.
Correct order on the metering side? (Gasket on carb body -> diaphragm on gasket -> cover on diaphragm)
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
"Upon further review", some of my "recollection" was from my log splitter carb rebuild. It was only a "gasket set" I put in (that all was correct), but I found that the metering lever was set to the wrong height setting (too high). Now just have to replace the fuel lines (tank to bulb cracked/broke). Any advise on how or where to find "replacement tips" if anything is "tricky" about doing that? Haven't talked to dealer yet to see if they sell a "kit" or just cut to length. Thanx again, I truly appreciate the info.
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
I found that the metering lever had been set to wrong height
ClintC
C's Tree Needs
Lucked out and found the pdf service (tear down/assembly) manual download. Didn't see any torque recommendations (av bolts, clutch nut). Is there a alternative to the piston stop (dealer doesn't have 1 4sale), dad always used a impact on the "bigger models" (which I don't have...99% tools stolen recently). Also, is my memory correct in thinking...1 piece of notebook paper for gauging ignition module gap?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just use the correct diameter GENUINE Tygon 4040 Fuel line. The genuine stuff is marked on the line itself. The aftermarket stuff likely won't last.
Check your plumbing connections... Tank to the carb input... Carb output to the bulb suction... bulb pressure back into tank. Seems like a LOT of folks mess this up. BTW saw will still start and run without the purge bulb. Just plug the carb outlet.
