346XP Bar and Chain Downsizing Help

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zeek

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Howdy, have not posted in a while, but when things don't break I can just browse the threads! Anyway, I have a 346XP with a 20" bar, .325/.058 right now and I want to put on an 18" bar. I assume since I have an .058 chain now I have to buy an .058 chain when I go to the 18" bar, is that correct? I want to be able to use both setups, but most of the time I do not need 20" and I hate to use the 20" if I don't need it.

Also, should I stick with a Husky bar or go with Oregon, Arborpro, Arborax . . . I know pretty much nothing about bars . . . I drink at home . . . lol

Thanks in advance!
Zeek
 
lmbrman

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chain gauge wont matter as far as the saw sprocket, but some bars tips are more specific to gauge, pends on the brand you choose

IMO the husky bars are about the same quality as forester, which costs half here. I run Tsumura.
 

MPE

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If you're going down a size, might as well go down two - 15" or 16". Dropping to 18" is hardly worth the bother.
 
excess650

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You can run whatever brand/gauge .325 bar you like. Your drive sprocket won't care, but the chain needs to match the bar, so .325 .050, .325 .058, or .325 063.
 
SawTroll

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The gauge is specific only to the bar, so it mostly doesn't matter if your new setup is a different gauge.

Consider stepping down to 16" instead of 18" though, specially if the 20" setup still is in order, to use when you need it.

Husky branded bars are OK, regardless if they are made by Husky or Oregon. The better bars that exist also are heavier, so it is a trade-off.
If buying a cheaper bar than Husky or Oregon, you risk getting a bar that really is made in China = avoid!
 
SawTroll

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I could not imagine this beast with a 16" bar! It would probably be crazy fast because it really pully that 20" with some power! You guys are the experts so I will be looking for a 16" setup!

I will never put anything longer that 16" on mine, except maybe for fun - but it is mainly about the balance and handling, not the power.
 
c5rulz

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I could not imagine this beast with a 16" bar! It would probably be crazy fast because it really pully that 20" with some power! You guys are the experts so I will be looking for a 16" setup!

You will be very happy with a 16" bar, perfect for that saw.:clap:
 
sunfish

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I could not imagine this beast with a 16" bar! It would probably be crazy fast because it really pully that 20" with some power! You guys are the experts so I will be looking for a 16" setup!

I've been running a 16" bar on a 346 since 2001.

Have 18" on the newer one. Would not want a 20" on either. :cheers:
 
2rod511

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I've been running a 16" bar on a 346 since 2001.

Have 18" on the newer one. Would not want a 20" on either. :cheers:

I don't have a 346 (will be the next saw I buy) but I run an 18" bar on my 340 mainly because it doesn't hurt my back so bad while limbing up a tree I just fell. It isn't as fast with an 18 but after limbing trees for several hours my back feels twice as good as it did with the 16" on it. Also if this is your only saw you will be loosing a good bit of bar for cutting the bigger wood by going to a 16 and you don't want to have to change bars all the time.
 
stormpetrel

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I will never put anything longer that 16" on mine, except maybe for fun - but it is mainly about the balance and handling, not the power.[/QUOTE

I use an 18" bar on my 550XP. It's only 1/2" shorter than the 20" Husky bar that came with the saw. I can hold the saw with one finger and it balances perfectly (not while running:dizzy:). Maybe I'm just used to it, but the handling seems excellent.......
 
Philbert

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As noted, if you are getting a new bar, you don't have to stick with the same gauge chain. However, if you do, you always have the option of buying chain in bulk, or having one or more of your longer loops cut down to fit the smaller bar, incase it gets damaged, etc. Also, one less thing to think about when buying chain.

I have a 20 inch and 16 inch bar for my Husqvarna 353. I really wanted an 18 inch bar, but it came with the 20, and I bought the 16. Both use the same chain. I think of it like a socket set, and interchange as needed. The saw balances differently, and obviously has less power to pull the longer chain if it is buried. Different personalities!

Philbert
 

zeek

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As noted, if you are getting a new bar, you don't have to stick with the same gauge chain. However, if you do, you always have the option of buying chain in bulk, or having one or more of your longer loops cut down to fit the smaller bar, incase it gets damaged, etc. Also, one less thing to think about when buying chain.

I have a 20 inch and 16 inch bar for my Husqvarna 353. I really wanted an 18 inch bar, but it came with the 20, and I bought the 16. Both use the same chain. I think of it like a socket set, and interchange as needed. The saw balances differently, and obviously has less power to pull the longer chain if it is buried. Different personalities!

Philbert

What did I miss? How can the 16 and 20 use the same chain?
 
SawTroll

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As noted, if you are getting a new bar, you don't have to stick with the same gauge chain. However, if you do, you always have the option of buying chain in bulk, or having one or more of your longer loops cut down to fit the smaller bar, incase it gets damaged, etc. Also, one less thing to think about when buying chain. .....

:givebeer: I actually considered mentioning that in my first post - but thought it might complicate the post too much. Mentioning it seperately in another post was the intention, but you beat me to that....:msp_biggrin:
 
Philbert

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What did I miss? How can the 16 and 20 use the same chain?

Sorry. 'Same' as in same pitch, gauge, type (95 narrow kerf), cutters, etc. Different number of drivers/loop lengths for the different length bars.

This was in regards to the OP asking if he needed to stay with the same .058 gauge chain with a different bar. It might be, with some saws, that you use a different chain with a longer bar (say skip-tooth) as well.

Philbert
 

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