36" Alaskan Mill question.

[AaronB]

The website says you can get a 32" cut, is that really possible?

I have mine set at 30" and the end clamp is sitting on part of the sprocket area, I think I could get another 1" but not sure I could get another 2". Is it okay to have the clamp that close to the end where it more on top of the sprocket?

 

[Marshy]

You take the dogs off the saw?

 

[AaronB]

You take the dogs off the saw?

Yep

 

[Marshy]

How long is your bar? Do they say what size bar is needed to achieve a 32" cut? I would think a 36" bar would be required.

 

[jnance]

I think you need 42" bar.

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[Hoodiegadoo]

You can put the mill flush with the ends on either side so it sounds like your bar is too short

 

[Cease232]

You need a 42" bar to get the full 32"


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[grizz55chev]

I’ve done a 32” slab with a 36” bar.

 

[BobL]

You can put the outboard mill clamp on the middle of the sprocket , but only by drilling through the middle of the sprocket (see 6 in picture below) and then

a) putting a short bolt with nut through the hole, drilling a ~1/8" deep x bolt head/nut width recess in the clamp pads ,and clamping onto the bolt.(see 4 in picture below)
b) Ditch the outboard clamp altogether and bolt the bar onto the mill.(see 8 in picture below)

The inner part of the nose sprocket is fixed to the bar and made of very hard steel. To drill the inner part of the bearing I found it needed a carbide drill bit. A new or resharpened masonry drill bit will do the job. High pressure and low speed is the easiest way to do this so using a drill press rather than a hand held drill.

 

[AaronB]

BobL, why can't you just clamp in the middle of the sprocket, why do you have to bolt through?

You need a 42" bar to get the full 32"
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That could be the case, I just figured since the mill is sold as a "36 inch mill" that they were inferring that you used a 36" bar and thus could get 32" as they say.

 

[Cease232]

I've tried clamping on the sprocket and it feels like it creates resistance. Milling is already hard enough on a saw without creating extra resistance. Also prefer not to have the mill rubbing on the crankcase.


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[BobL]

BobL, why can't you just clamp in the middle of the sprocket, why do you have to bolt through?

As Cease232 says you run the risk of crushing the outer edge of the bar onto sprocket.
Only the middle section of the sprocket up to the rivets is not moving so the clamping pad has to sit inside this area.
This area is smaller than the mill clamp pad so the pad has to be cut back to fit.
Even then the small area means a clamped pad could still move more easily than usual so a bolt through the nose is the safest way.

In this photo you can see a regular sprocket nose and a roller nose and the area in which the clamp should be inside.
If the rivets on the sprocket nose are proud enough off the bar a clamp could sit inside the rivets but usually they are too flush to teh bar.
This roller nose has a much more pronounced recess into which the clamp pad can safely sit but as it comes with a hole why not use that for extra safety.

 

[AaronB]

I contacted Granberg just to see what they would say. They said the measurements they give on the site are "for a solid steel bar with no roller", and even said those are not used/made much anymore. They did say with a sprocket bar that you will be down to about 29-30".

Don't know why they don't advertise it that way on their site.

I have a 42" bar that I think my 660 will run for milling, but would just have to get a 48" Alaskan. Would rather get the 56" Alaskan but I don't know if my 660 will run a 52 or 56 inch bar.

 

[Hoodiegadoo]

I contacted Granberg just to see what they would say. They said the measurements they give on the site are "for a solid steel bar with no roller", and even said those are not used/made much anymore. They did say with a sprocket bar that you will be down to about 29-30".

Don't know why they don't advertise it that way on their site.

I have a 42" bar that I think my 660 will run for milling, but would just have to get a 48" Alaskan. Would rather get the 56" Alaskan but I don't know if my 660 will run a 52 or 56 inch bar.

You can run the 42” bar on the mill you have. Just remove the guard on the far side. Also, you can purchase just the larger rails for your mill

 

[rarefish383]

Aaron, when I bought my 660 I told my sales man I was going to use it for milling. I planned on get 3 bars, a 25, 36 and 47. He said no problem. Then he came back and said to wait till the saw was out of warranty to get the 47. If I bought it with the saw he would have to void the warranty, the 660 was only covered to 36". He didn't have any problem with the saw pulling a 47 in a mill. I guess the factory has to set a limit. I haven't had a need for the longer bar yet, so I haven't gotten one. But, if I get something that needs a longer bar I'll get one, just keep your chain sharp and don't lean on it, Joe.

 

[flying pig]

BobL, why can't you just clamp in the middle of the sprocket, why do you have to bolt through?.

This is why.

My custom mill set up has a semi pointed dowel coming in from the top side. The centre of the sprocket is very hard but with a decent hss bit you can make a centre 'hole' that will make the end of the mill locate there. Then all you need is a small button on GE bottom side that goes between the rivets and you're in business. A bit easier if you have to change out a worn bar tip.