550xp or 555

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Believe those hot start issues are more operator related. Never had a problem, if did not restart on first pull, set on high idle and re-fire. Might just be how my two 562's and friends two 562's start though. But, I did open a slot on my older 562's cover, to let off heat. Have owned a few 346's and 357's, would stick with 562's, to each his own. Sharp chains are a bigger deal on those saws, to me.
I think you are correct.

I never had an issue on my 562. Had to throw the 550 on high idle when it was real hot and it fired right up.
 
To answer the OP's question, the 555.

I am not a real fan of the 500 series. I got rid of a 550XPG as I have two 346XP's that are ported. Not a good comparison granted but there is a significant difference in performance. I am on my 2nd 562XP, traded for 1st for a heated handle model. They way fines get past the filter I don't know how long it will run before blowing up. It is very smooth and makes great power, more than both 357XP's I have. But the latter aren't plagued by occasional hot start issues either. All of the 3xx series listed start first pull every time once warm. The same can't be said for the 5xx series.
I'm guessing your saying that the difference in performance was because the 346's are ported, because a stock 550 will run with a stock 346 no problem in my experience.
As was stated many of the hot start issues are more related to knowing the particular saws starting characteristics rather than from the saw. The newer ones have less issues with guys flooding them than the old ones since they run cooler. Many of the problems happen when folks run them bone dry (a lean condition) and then try to restart the saw, many times choking it rather than setting the saw on high idle which allows a bit more air in and alleviates the flooding/rich condition since the saw now has fuel and it gives the saw/computer time to adjust to having adequate fuel again. Personally if my saw surges I shut it off, it either needs fuel or there is a problem. I don't try to run the last bit of fuel out of them, unless I'm getting ready to ship them, and when doing that I don't do it at wide open throttle or for an extended amount of time as I've already drained the tank.
 
Well maybe I don't know what I am talking about and am clue less on how to start a saw. (I have read the owner's manual) and am familiar with proper procedure regarding how restarts and high idle settings. I run a saw 5 days a week in the winter months and IMHO the 5xx series have some problems. If this weren't the case then they wouldn't be making slots in the top cover, (which my early saws don't have) and adding insulation that the early saws didn't have and numerous programming changes and carb changes. What cannot be fixed on the 562 is the terrible fit of the air cleaner and intake horn allowing debris in. Some will say maybe I don't know how to grind chains too. If you look in my sig., I am pretty well set up to maintain chain.

Is this good filtration?

1zfkm7c.jpg


24d2b1t.jpg


10zdcee.jpg


jg4a50.jpg


2qbsk5f.jpg


Here is the 346 which easily has 10 times the # of hours and has NEVER BEEN CLEANED!

11u9kwk.jpg



15nos8y.jpg


Before I added the Nielsen:

6p1cvm.jpg




My point is the 562XPG is a very smooth powerful saw but it has had some problems.
 
I agree that the 562xp has filter sealing issues. Now i just use RTV on it and leave it on until its time to pry off the old and re-rtv the new.


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Well maybe I don't know what I am talking about and am clue less on how to start a saw. (I have read the owner's manual) and am familiar with proper procedure regarding how restarts and high idle settings. I run a saw 5 days a week in the winter months and IMHO the 5xx series have some problems. If this weren't the case then they wouldn't be making slots in the top cover, (which my early saws don't have) and adding insulation that the early saws didn't have and numerous programming changes and carb changes. What cannot be fixed on the 562 is the terrible fit of the air cleaner and intake horn allowing debris in. Some will say maybe I don't know how to grind chains too. If you look in my sig., I am pretty well set up to maintain chain.

Is this good filtration?

1zfkm7c.jpg


24d2b1t.jpg


10zdcee.jpg


jg4a50.jpg


2qbsk5f.jpg


Here is the 346 which easily has 10 times the # of hours and has NEVER BEEN CLEANED!

11u9kwk.jpg



15nos8y.jpg


Before I added the Nielsen:

6p1cvm.jpg




My point is the 562XPG is a very smooth powerful saw but it has had some problems.
Your right, I'm glad you got my point :rare2:.
Speaking of getting points, maybe I better explain before I make a pun :), I'm talking about chains now, are you using the Oregon on the left for grinding rakers, if so do you usually leave it flat, or put a slight angle on it.
Read many of your post through the years, just as you were sharing your experience so was I ;), in no way did I mean any disrespect. I'll bow out as I'm not wanting to ruin the thread.
 
Your right, I'm glad you got my point :rare2:.
Speaking of getting points, maybe I better explain before I make a pun :), I'm talking about chains now, are you using the Oregon on the left for grinding rakers, if so do you usually leave it flat, or put a slight angle on it.
Read many of your post through the years, just as you were sharing your experience so was I ;), in no way did I mean any disrespect. I'll bow out as I'm not wanting to ruin the thread.


The grinder on the left is a Tecomec clone. It is now a test subject for converting a conventional vice over to a Silvey style. It has been replaced with a Nielsen 100B. The Nielsen has a profiled stone so the grind is the same the factory puts on it. A diamond dresser is used.

Here is the Tecomec, the geometry isn't quite right but I won't go into that right now.

16aefir.jpg


Nielsen 100B

2pqrlab.jpg
 
I agree that the 562xp has filter sealing issues. Now i just use RTV on it and leave it on until its time to pry off the old and re-rtv the new.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gotta say that would work but is not exactly convenient. I have talked at length to my dealer about this. He is going to give me a break when it blows up. BTW, I tried grease and all that did was make a mess.
 
Well im tellin ya, if you want it to seal for real. Use a small amount of RTV around it. It works well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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