630 super 2, air leak?

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What's up with that plug wire? I hate to see electrical tape on a high tension lead. No amount of tape will contain a spark that will jump 1/8" air gap. Might not be your current problem but then again it may be. I would surely look into it. BTW your piston look great.....low hour saw for sure.
 
Looking for marks and indicators in the piston and through the ring.
Looking at that I might suggest the ring has not long been replaced- the scores top of piston from crown to ring groove stop and do not show on the ring.
The photo earlier of the front cylinder wall through the plug hole looks to show possible transfer and or slight grooves- from a lean condition.
So maybe, the saw was leaking, previous owner caught it playing up, re ringed it and sold it on.
Ok that makes sense but why would someone go through the effort of putting in a new ring just to sell it off? Is there something I'm missing? It seems to me like that would be pointless and basically giving away an otherwise perfectly good saw, I paid 400CAD
 
What's up with that plug wire? I hate to see electrical tape on a high tension lead. No amount of tape will contain a spark that will jump 1/8" air gap. Might not be your current problem but then again it may be. I would surely look into it. BTW your piston look great.....low hour saw for sure.
Im definitely getting a new wire but right now I need to cut firewood. That being said tge saws down now but I did find a bunch of crud in the carb. I'm going to get new air and fuel filters with the carb kit
 

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I've cleaned the carb and found no surprises. Will do with the rest of the saw too. I need to get this wood cut. Hopefully my parts arrive soon
 

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Feel like this is an operating table
 

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Found that the diaphragm is separating. I have some hylomar m non setting joining compound, i used just a fairys tinkle to try and get me through. This isn't something I'd normally do but I see no risk in doing so and if I an get 30 minutes of cutting I might get most of this wood chucked up
 

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Looking for marks and indicators in the piston and through the ring.
Looking at that I might suggest the ring has not long been replaced- the scores top of piston from crown to ring groove stop and do not show on the ring.
The photo earlier of the front cylinder wall through the plug hole looks to show possible transfer and or slight grooves- from a lean condition.
So maybe, the saw was leaking, previous owner caught it playing up, re ringed it and sold it on.
You have me thinking now, I had some suspicion that I wasn't getting the full story and a few things seemed off even to my inexpensive eye. Without me saying, might these pictures suggest anything to you?
 

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You have me thinking now, I had some suspicion that I wasn't getting the full story and a few things seemed off even to my inexpensive eye. Without me saying, might these pictures suggest anything to you?

Not quite sure what your "inexpensive" eye is trying to show?
I do not currently own a Super 2 variant- just the Super.
Apart from having a few dings in the muffler and missing the inner deflector on the outlet- at a cursory glance I see not too much astray?

image0.jpegimage1.jpeg
 
So if we go back to the beginnings and make a long story short-

If +0.5 = 1.5 CCW from lightly seated on the H also mean +1.0 = 2.0 CCW from lightly seated?

If so you are running richer than "safe" and it could be adding to your issues.
That and the HT wire Cantdog pointed out and then replace the restricted spark plug with an unrestricted WS7F if you want to stay BOSCH and the factory fitment for these.

Put your cleaned and fatory kitted carb back together- pressure test it in a jar of water- assemble it on the saw and have it pressure and vac tested as a complete unit- so the intake block is part of the equation.
 
Auto correct. Inexperienced. Thanks for your continued jelp and these references. It looked to me like somehow smashed a different muffler to fit and the throttle linkage just looked wrong to me. BTW I do have the inner deflector but it didn't look factory to me.

Sorry for the late reply
 
So if we go back to the beginnings and make a long story short-

If +0.5 = 1.5 CCW from lightly seated on the H also mean +1.0 = 2.0 CCW from lightly seated?

If so you are running richer than "safe" and it could be adding to your issues.
That and the HT wire Cantdog pointed out and then replace the restricted spark plug with an unrestricted WS7F if you want to stay BOSCH and the factory fitment for these.

Put your cleaned and fatory kitted carb back together- pressure test it in a jar of water- assemble it on the saw and have it pressure and vac tested as a complete unit- so the intake block is part of the equation.
This will be my course of action once everything arrives. I wasn't sure that was much of a difference on the rich side but that's how it tuned. I followed the instructions exactly in the manual. That doesn't mean that everything is correct though but it was working

What can a too rich condition do other than score the cylinder and piston? They looked free of carbon when I would heck until now

Also I got it to fire later after cleaning tge carburetor. It had saw dust in the somehow. Anyways it fired up, I held wot and once she opened up something happened and she just died out.

I think I'm just going to rebuild the whole thing. I've had enough problems and I just want a properly functioning saw
 
Auto correct. Inexperienced. Thanks for your continued jelp and these references. It looked to me like somehow smashed a different muffler to fit and the throttle linkage just looked wrong to me. BTW I do have the inner deflector but it didn't look factory to me.

Sorry for the late reply


The throttle linkages can look a little strange to newcomers to the style and are quite baffling if popped off and you are trying to figure out the correct orientation- but yours is all good.
The muffler bend- unknown how or why it got in there- could be heated and pushed out from the inside via the exhaust port if you really wanted to- but at the moment is causing no real issue.
The inner deflector is factory and helps deflect hot gasses away from the plastic brake flag- which and and will melt flags in half in a fairly short run time if bucking serious sized logs.

Holes in, incorrectly fitting, top and bottom halves not clipped together, misaligned rubber gasket between air horn and filter base are the main reasons for sawdust entering the carb internals.
Can be from the fuel tank- but usually that involves a missing/damaged fuel filter, or split in the bottom of the fuel line.

Running way rich will not score the piston and cylinder as such, but over fuel everything to the point of the saw not running well- often older saws are found way out of spec in an effort to mask an air leak. Read about four stroking and burble that cleans up in the cut- at 2+ out on the H at full throttle in a non leaking saw should be way past the burble unloaded and not clean up in the cut- over fueling to the point of having a wet oily muffler.
 
The throttle linkages can look a little strange to newcomers to the style and are quite baffling if popped off and you are trying to figure out the correct orientation- but yours is all good.
The muffler bend- unknown how or why it got in there- could be heated and pushed out from the inside via the exhaust port if you really wanted to- but at the moment is causing no real issue.
The inner deflector is factory and helps deflect hot gasses away from the plastic brake flag- which and and will melt flags in half in a fairly short run time if bucking serious sized logs.

Holes in, incorrectly fitting, top and bottom halves not clipped together, misaligned rubber gasket between air horn and filter base are the main reasons for sawdust entering the carb internals.
Can be from the fuel tank- but usually that involves a missing/damaged fuel filter, or split in the bottom of the fuel line.

Running way rich will not score the piston and cylinder as such, but over fuel everything to the point of the saw not running well- often older saws are found way out of spec in an effort to mask an air leak. Read about four stroking and burble that cleans up in the cut- at 2+ out on the H at full throttle in a non leaking saw should be way past the burble unloaded and not clean up in the cut- over fueling to the point of having a wet oily muffler.
Thanks again for all your help and insight. I understand the idea of 4 stroking and cleaning up in a cut but either due to inexperience or a mechanical issue I never really felt i hit that point. I was also starting to believe I was giving it too much gas but wasn't sure. Tuning it took a long time too and just didn't feel consistent when I'd make an adjustment

I picked up a tilotson kit, new HT wire, new ngk plug,, new fuel filter and I'll also be making a new kill switch wire as this one had a small cut in the insulation. And tge exhaust gasket I had to make is bothering me so a new one too while I'm at it and flush tge tank thoroughly. Tge fuel line is already new but will be Flushed

The shop I went to is highly recommended and saw nothing else wrong even though I was waving money in his face. I did get an extra chain and sprocket though


And I got most of that dent out of the muffler. Will update In a couple hours when she's like new again
 

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Long/short

Carb is 100% spotless, brand new. Tilotson kit, assembled with the greatest care

Air filter spotless, new fuel filter. New NGK plug. New plug wire, new ground wire New sprocke, needle besring is good, well greased. New chain. Bar is as new. Coil gap .013. Fresh gas Comp 140psi

Oil mix

I'm running 32. She wants to open up. Following the manual precisely she wants to be within spec on the H and L jets but just can't breathe wot. She's smoking some but idles fine and won't choke out in a cut

I dont want to start an oil thread so I'm asking here. That's the only thing that isn't right according to the manual. I'm going to try 50 tomorrow but just wanted an opinion from anyone still watching

Pics for reference, she's cleaner than the air in JPL
 

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Use whatever oil you like, mix whatever ratio you deem safe and somewhere within say 25:1 and 50:1 TUNE the saw to run on THAT mix and call it good.
I've been reading up too much on oil...

She's running rich, I just realized I closed both the cylinder cover ports by mistake. Seems I mess up and learn something every time I pick her up. She's been a patient teacher

I appreciate you sticking around brother, your advice is well noted. She'll open up tomorrow.

And I got a borescope heheh. It looks like morning still lake on the cylinder walls
 
I've been reading up too much on oil...

She's running rich, I just realized I closed both the cylinder cover ports by mistake. Seems I mess up and learn something every time I pick her up. She's been a patient teacher

I appreciate you sticking around brother, your advice is well noted. She'll open up tomorrow.

And I got a borescope heheh. It looks like morning still lake on the cylinder walls


Borescope is not really needed.
The air your saw breathes comes from around the flywheel and up into the airbox- not from the two ports in the top cover- they are more to do with temperature control.
 
Borescope is not really needed.
The air your saw breathes comes from around the flywheel and up into the airbox- not from the two ports in the top cover- they are more to do with temperature control.
I don't mean to argue but I see no other way for air to get in besides around the the plug boot, maybe our saws are different? Either way, it doesn't matter. At a little over 3/4 on the H jet she opens right up, bit of 4 stroking, in he cut she's sings right along, with the 20" bar cutting the entire length she just sinks down under her own weight, no bogging. Just the slightest bit of smoke when I open the throttle

Guess I was just scared of tuning below 1 turn but that's where it wants to be I guess
 

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