TwoTurboVolvos
ArboristSite Operative
Finished the muff mod...Took a test run and performed excellent...Now, I read somewhere on AS you need to adjust the high speed screw...What am I shooting for when I do this? Thanks Guys,
Ron
Ron
6401 Muff Mod done! Now WHAT?
- Thread starter TwoTurboVolvos
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Heres one. http://ilvirtualforest.nres.uiuc.edu/harvest/timstips/sawburetor.htm
Heres the other with sound wave too. http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
Heres the other with sound wave too. http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
Last edited:
manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
Go to thiis site for carb adjustments and don't forget to remove the limiter caps on your high and low carp adjusting screws. I pulled mine off and sanded the stops off then reinstalled them. They still help to keep the screws from moving. good luck.
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
TwoTurboVolvos
ArboristSite Operative
Do these pull straight off of the carb? There's only one on the high side...manual said:
Ron
manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would like to say yes, But I do not own a Makida or have I ever seen one to back up my statement. wait for someone to reply, That owns one to be sure.
It's not like I'm trying to be a Sap.
It's not like I'm trying to be a Sap.
manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
By the way great job on your muffler mod. Looks like no welding was required.
Last edited:
TwoTurboVolvos said:
It may or may not pull off, but regardless it is easy to just grind the wing off of it with a Dremel. Or, if you get impatient, to nip most of it off with a small pair of diagonal cutters and then finish with the Dremel. I went with the latter suggestion on my 7900 and it worked fine.
Also, looks like you did some good work!
TwoTurboVolvos
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the props guys...I took my time actually hand forming the piece by pounding the metal over a paint scraper handle to get the shape, then getting more curve by hammering with a screwdriver handle. Got texture using the Dremel with a sanding bit. Used stainless square drive screws to secure.
Ron
Ron
Last edited:
Sethro
Heathen
Ron,nice fabricaton
nice avatar too!
nice avatar too!
pbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice work on the muffler mod...
TwoTurboVolvos
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Fellas!
I got the stop ground off and did the carb adjustments...I think I got it as good as it's gonna get(according to Madsens).Excellent idle and very fast response to the top.
Ron
I got the stop ground off and did the carb adjustments...I think I got it as good as it's gonna get(according to Madsens).Excellent idle and very fast response to the top.
Ron
PWB
ArboristSite Guru
Someone actually selling Robertson screws south of the border???
I'm impressed! Finally catching on to another good Canadian invention south of the border!
I'm impressed! Finally catching on to another good Canadian invention south of the border!
PWB
ArboristSite Guru
Robertson screws have been around longer than phillips, and I think longer than Torx. Story goes that Henry Ford wouldn't pay the patent fees to Robertson, went with phillips instead. They'll take a lot more torque than a phillips or slot before the screwdriver slips out of the screw.
TwoTurboVolvos
ArboristSite Operative
Just finished the porting on the 6401...I did just a mild widening of the intake and exhaust and smoothed out the edges a bit. Got it started and adjusted the carb again...This baby really screams!
Ron
Ron
Hack
ArboristSite Member
Sorry to resurrect a past thread, but I have another newbie question.
What was the extent of your muffler mod?
Did you simply punch a new hole through the external casing of the muffler and put on a deflector port to face the exhaust forward?
Thankee.
What was the extent of your muffler mod?
Did you simply punch a new hole through the external casing of the muffler and put on a deflector port to face the exhaust forward?
Thankee.
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Hack said:
Can't speak for Volvo, but I go a little more indepth with them. Drilling a hole may make a slight differance, but most of the new "found power" comes from the extra noise. The real restricion is in the baffles inside the muffler. It has to go through the baffles before exiting, and we are not talking tuned pipes inside the muffler, so try to get rid of the restrictions!
Here is a thread where I did a similar looking muffler mod, and a picture of the baffle that was removed from the inside of the muffler. I didn't have a camera handy when taking them apart, but it takes some time to uncrimp the muffler. check out page 3, if you don't read the whole thing.
The 5100 muffler is similar in the way it is put together and the baffle inside. I opened that one up too, and drilled the stock outlet hole to 3/4". Stock hole was 3/8". The outlet on the 5100 is on top. I used this method because there is very little room on the sides of the 5100 muffler for an added scoop, I'm not saying that a side scoop can't be done, but i didn't feel like making a two day fabrication project out of it. lol. Besides the 5100 still really looks stock. lol.
-Steve
Freakingstang, what bar length and chain pitch/gauge are you running on your 5100s? How do you like it power-wise. Lots of softwood in these parts, and I really want to run an 18" bar - didn't know if I would be better off with a .325" chain over 3/8" on that saw with an 18" bar.
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Four Paws said:
I love it, it is the best 50cc saw I have ever used. The more I run it, the better it runs.
I run 16" on mine with 3/8" chain. I had an 058 gauge bar when I first got it (from another saw), but now I have an 050 gauge bar on it. No difference between gauges, just whatever is more common to use in your area. I had the bar buried in that oak this weekend. It pulls it extremely well. I would surely think it would pull an 18" with 3/8 in softwoods no problem. Actually It came in a box with an 18" bar and setup for 3/8" chain, but I just bought the powerhead.
Steve
Freakingstang said:
Thanks, Steve! I am excited to order it, and will definitely go with the 18" 3/8" .050" combo. The shop I got a quote from (and will end up buying from) told me $389 with an 18" bar and 2 chains. The other place told me $364.50 for the powerhead only. I thought that only $25 more for a bar and 2 chains was a pretty great deal!
