8 or 9 tooth For 460, 660
- Thread starter Carlyle
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timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Assume you are talking 3/8?
8 tooth is standard stock item can be had anywhere, 9 tooth is a racing sprocket and you need to order from Madsens or Dansco directly. They are about 4-5 times the price of a stock rim.
8 tooth is standard stock item can be had anywhere, 9 tooth is a racing sprocket and you need to order from Madsens or Dansco directly. They are about 4-5 times the price of a stock rim.
HolmenTree
ArboristSite Guru
I prefer a 9t plus spur sprocket in the standard 7 spline ,I had them made by a guy in Ohio over 20 yrs ago, I can dig his name up ,if he is still in business.Over 20 yrs later the spur on my hotsaw[keyed center hub] is still in perfect condition. I got a few of Madsens rims with the pins and I think they don't do justice to the chains drive links especially on a bike hotsaw, I've seen alot of chain breakage and the pins are sometimes the culprit , also had pins work themselves out. Spur is the best.
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timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
I fear many would dissagree with spurs being best due to a lack of support to the chain on the underside and a lot more point loading, but anyway making spurs to adapt onto splne drives would involve custom and quite specialized machiening that I am sure is going to cost some $$$. The broaching required to make the internal splines is not always something a small shop will be set up to do.
I have even used the 9 and 10 tooth Dansco rims cutting firewood and after several days cutting there was no significant wear that would concern me.
Maybe the rims you tried had pins too small, seen a couple that used pins that were only about 1/8 in diamiter these I could see being hard on the drive links, the sprockets with pins in the 3/16 to 1/4 inch range mesh with the drivers much better and have greater contact area.
I have even used the 9 and 10 tooth Dansco rims cutting firewood and after several days cutting there was no significant wear that would concern me.
Maybe the rims you tried had pins too small, seen a couple that used pins that were only about 1/8 in diamiter these I could see being hard on the drive links, the sprockets with pins in the 3/16 to 1/4 inch range mesh with the drivers much better and have greater contact area.
HolmenTree
ArboristSite Guru
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The full length back and front of the chains drive links are what supports the chain on the spur sprocket[big area,pitch cannot vary]. Even Oregon etc. rim sprockets have a built in spur inside ,those surfaces support the back/front of the drivelink and the outside round surface shares some load but the danger of damaged derailed chain drive links is greatly lessened. A 3/16" pin[my pin rims are 3/16"] racing rim sprocket has a very small contact area at the drive link ,so support is almost solely on the outside rim surface.On high powered hotsaws the impacting those pins do to the drive link is a big determit.Also firewood cutting with a normal saws would too. Chip extraction from the pin area is mininumal and pitch can change with chip buildup, the spur has the best chip flow extraction and cooling even over the Oregon radial port rim. I had my standard 7 spline spur racing sprockets made by a fellow in Ohio [in his basement]around 1984, cost- $75.
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HolmenTree
ArboristSite Guru
homemade sprockets
30 yrs ago I made 11 tooth 3/8 racing sprockets with a bar tip sprocket sandwiched between 2 large washers, worked very well actually, I had a spur and rim design combo.
Factory made spur sprockets are designed to mate with the chain in perfect pitch throughout the chain's useful life.
30 yrs ago I made 11 tooth 3/8 racing sprockets with a bar tip sprocket sandwiched between 2 large washers, worked very well actually, I had a spur and rim design combo.
Factory made spur sprockets are designed to mate with the chain in perfect pitch throughout the chain's useful life.
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