9/16 Rigging Rope
- Thread starter Jeffgp26
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
If Im not mistaken, its the same rope marketed under different names.
Well there is a price difference and the WLL's are a little different. Really would like to know if one is more durable than the other.
TimberJack_7
ArboristSite Operative
I am a big fan of the Samson stable braid myself. I have their 9/16 bull line and have rigged some seriously heavy things out with it. I figured since I wasn't tied into the tree that was supporting the weight and there wasn't anything in the path of the swing that I might as well test the rope and see what it would do. It has been loaded many times with a log that weighed right at 1000lbs give or take and handled it just fine.
I want to say that if the average breaking strength is 13,300lbs for the rope, then the WLL should be 1,330lbs. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
Samson Stable Braid Rigging Line, Double Braid Bull Rope
I want to say that if the average breaking strength is 13,300lbs for the rope, then the WLL should be 1,330lbs. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
Samson Stable Braid Rigging Line, Double Braid Bull Rope
802climber
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah that is correct at 10:1
There are more factors to consider than simply tensile strength of a rigging line.
Take a look at Sherrill's Rope Chart in their catalog which compares the numbers on rigging lines, this will give you a better idea.
Also, there are different numbers out there, manufacturer specs and independent testing, etc.
That being said, I think Dynasorb is just the new version of the Polydyne. Seems like the name is most or all of the difference.
There are more factors to consider than simply tensile strength of a rigging line.
Take a look at Sherrill's Rope Chart in their catalog which compares the numbers on rigging lines, this will give you a better idea.
Also, there are different numbers out there, manufacturer specs and independent testing, etc.
That being said, I think Dynasorb is just the new version of the Polydyne. Seems like the name is most or all of the difference.
Slvrmple72
Addicted to ArboristSite
I will second Timberjacks vote for Samsons Stablebraid. Seriously impressive rigging rope!
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
You dont want to false crotch rig with stable braid. You have to use a pulley or you will wish you did.
BlackOakTreeServ
ArboristSite Guru
I think you mean Natual Crotch.....just checking
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Yeah, I have vacation on my mind.
TimberJack_7
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah I false crotch the big stuff in combo with a portawrap. Saves wear and tear on the rope and once you have it in place you can usually do a majority of the removal from one set.
Just out of curiosity, why do you say don't use a natural crotch with the stable braid?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I forget where I read it, maybe samsons website, I believe it milks the core real bad
MackenzieTree
ArboristSite Member
recently got the lowering kit which has thw 5/8 stablebraid it took some serious peices down!
TimberJack_7
ArboristSite Operative
I guess maybe I should describe my setup for lowering the heavy stuff. CMI Block, Samson stable braid bull line ranging from 1/2 inch up to 5/8. I also use a portawrap as a friction device. Since the rope is pricey, I like to get all the mileage I can out of it. Using natural crotches and taking wraps on a trunk, do tend to shorten the life of a lowering/work line.
RAG66
ArboristSite Operative
I use the Samson 9/16 with pulley & Portawrap. Never a question, but then again I go way up to the point where I can rip the top off and put it in my back pocket. Not really but most guys don't like going as high up on the small wood. I do rig out the biggest pieces I think I can afford to.
squad143
Tree Guy
I'm a huge fan of the stable braid as well.
Always run the 9/16 & 5/8 throught a block, due to the weight I'm rigging.
Smaller stuff (branches, limbs) I'll natural crotch on 1/2. The rope ends up with some friction burn after a while. Once it gets too bad, I'll just replace it. I just look at it as the cost of doing business.
I really like the "feel" of this rope. Ties easily and hold its knots well.
Always run the 9/16 & 5/8 throught a block, due to the weight I'm rigging.
Smaller stuff (branches, limbs) I'll natural crotch on 1/2. The rope ends up with some friction burn after a while. Once it gets too bad, I'll just replace it. I just look at it as the cost of doing business.
I really like the "feel" of this rope. Ties easily and hold its knots well.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I would, because one big piece natural crotched down will carmelie the rope, and at $400 for a 200 ft piece I would think its worth investing in a block
What size of block should I be looking for (tonnage) to mate with my rope? I've decided on the 9/16 rope with a 15000 lb Max load limit.
802climber
ArboristSite Operative
Natural Crotch vs. False Crotch
Something to consider is with natural crotch rigging, although it can be quicker, only the rope between the piece and the rigging point will help absorb shock.
With false crotch rigging (preferably a block), the rope from the piece, through the rigging point, and all the way down to the base of the tree will help absorb shock.
So it is worth the trouble.
Something to consider is with natural crotch rigging, although it can be quicker, only the rope between the piece and the rigging point will help absorb shock.
With false crotch rigging (preferably a block), the rope from the piece, through the rigging point, and all the way down to the base of the tree will help absorb shock.
So it is worth the trouble.
