A R E A 51 Reveals...

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edisto, it's possible to do it with stick, but very hard. You have to establish an arc, deposit your filler, stop or 'draw out' the arc (lengthening the arc so it's cooler). . . Then establish another arc while the previous tack is still red hot. I've welded some pretty thin stuff with AC stick (two coffee cans together), but it was waaaay too much work.

I welded a couple of coffee cans together for a charcoal starter...guess I'll keep practicing on those until my welds stop looking like crap. I never liked the holes in the bottom of the starter anyway...
 
Yup, I run pure Argon with my TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas). . . We can go old school and call it Heli-Arc too. :D

Wet electrode change-outs are a blast! LOL

:agree2:

Heli-arc, isn't that where you don't use a filler rod and tig is where you do??

LOL:greenchainsaw:
 
I welded a couple of coffee cans together for a charcoal starter...guess I'll keep practicing on those until my welds stop looking like crap. I never liked the holes in the bottom of the starter anyway...

Save up all your pocket change and get a little MIG machine. . . Check Craiglist within a couple hundred miles of you. Use this search engine: www.searchtempest.com
 
:agree2:

If you can Edisto, everytime you reach for the beer at the store, put the cash away instead for another day and buy yourself a small MIG machine. The Lincoln's are rather easy to work on. You can hit up your local welding shops too and see if they have a small used welder that they would be willing to part with at a decent price??
 
:agree2:

If you can Edisto, everytime you reach for the beer at the store, put the cash away instead for another day and buy yourself a small MIG machine. The Lincoln's are rather easy to work on. You can hit up your local welding shops too and see if they have a small used welder that they would be willing to part with at a decent price??

I'll keep my eyes open...but lately, we haven't been reaching for beer at the store either!

I'm not going to complain, because I have a steady paycheck, but with the wife not working to stay home with the boy, there's always month left at the end of the money!
 
Rick, I'm just having a bo peep at some pics of your transfers.
What year was your saw built ?

I'll post up some pics tomorrow of the 6400 jug I have here, the transfer dividers are shaped a fair bit differently, there might be a bit more in it yet ;)
It's an '07 cylinder.

Where's the pic Slick:drool:

I'm anxious to see what those transfers look like. I wouldn't mind playing with that cylinder too:clap:
 
Sup brother?

I'll be showing the build on Nathan's fab thread.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=86733&page=33

But yeah, I thrashed through my garage stuff looking for a box of mandrels and thankfully had a 1 1/2" tube. I have a small 1/4 steel plate for the flange too. As I do the cold rolled sheet.

Rolling the stuff is going to be tricky. I need to save some pesos for some gas. It's the only thing that is holding me back. I'd charge, but I just charged 3 chisel chains from Bailey's for the 6401's 20" bar. I'm still kicking myself for doing it:buttkick:(they did throw in a file-o plate for free!!!) Furthermore, pay day isn't until Oct. 5:cry: Meanwhile, I'll prep.

I'm using Jennings formulas. After researching your thread, I tried the program you used (I can't remember the name off hand), but it's for PC only. I did try it with my Mac using parallels, but for some reason, it doesn't recognize when I hit the print button.

So I have to do this by hand. Using Jenning's 8º rule for diffusers and 14º rule for his baffles. I've figured out the tuned length. I still have more research to do. Like once the tuned length is figured out, then how to slice it up into the lead in pipe, diffuser, straight or no straight pipe, baffle, and then the outlet pipe.
 
Since it was done, I figured I'd try to improve it. Similar to the 6401. They appear large, but in fact are quite small. I'm not sure why the picture makes it look like they're monster ports.

DSCF1020.jpg


1st 2 vids are from the previous porting. It cut smooth. Saw doing all the work.

The last 2 vids plus the plunge are the new porting. It felt very very good. In fact, I'm very pleased now. Although, it made the chain very aggressive. It sounded like I was pushing, but in fact, I let the saw do all the work. It pulled up on the wood and cant and dug in really good, but I was surprised at how it chugged along. Which leads me to believe that the riders were too aggressive for this new power. I think Bill was right. That FOP produces a very aggressive rider.

When I plunged cut, it was warmed up and pulling hard. Amazing there was something left in performance with that porting. Tomorrow, I'll be cutting up a larger piece as the piece was getting smaller but I did not sharpen the chain for the new porting. I continued on with the chain from the 1st vid untouched. I'll sharpen tomorrow though. See if I can tame those riders a little with a new sharpening.

Time to learn square filing.

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Pipe next folks. I promise:cheers:
 
Cutting up a 3 rocket booster crotch
DSCF1034.jpg


Letting the saw and chain do the work until I hit the dense stuff. I had to push past the heartwood(center)?? which means my chain wasn't sharp enough. It had a fresh fop filed edge too:cry:

DSCF1033.jpg


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