shaunbagone
ArboristSite Member
about buring palletts. I have been cutting up pallets and using them to start my fire. Is this a bad idea? Or am I ok as long as I dont use them constatly. I just started using this furnace last week (its new.)
Add-On Furnace
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shaunbagone
ArboristSite Member
Another question about my new DAKA. I installed it in my garage and have the 2 8" ducts ran to my furnace in the basement. Once the duct goes in the house I used the insulated flex duct up to the furnace then went back to steel to 90's pointing up inside the plentum. I ran a intake duct stubbed into my basement wall so Im not pulling air out of the garage. The intake duct is only 6". Should I install a larger one? Or maybee 2 6" ducts? Its been going all day today and right now its about 35-40 outside and 71-74 inside. Working good but seems like it could be better. Anything wrong with using the flex ducts? Thanks in advance.
Moddoo
ArboristSite Operative
I would run 2 x 8" for your intake if possible.
The colder it gets, the more flow you will wish you had.
You get a big fire going and you want that heat in the house asap.
I have a large 1/3 hp blower on mine with an 8" x 16" opening from my cold air return ducted to the blower, and 2 x 8" rounds into the main trunk like you.
It works well for me.
The colder it gets, the more flow you will wish you had.
You get a big fire going and you want that heat in the house asap.
I have a large 1/3 hp blower on mine with an 8" x 16" opening from my cold air return ducted to the blower, and 2 x 8" rounds into the main trunk like you.
It works well for me.
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK guys I need your help. I'm have a wood stove Grizzly (I believe) from TSC hook up to a fuel oil furnance. The wood stove runs for about 30 sec then shuts off. Both stoves have blowers on them. I have the wood stove hooked into the plantum and a 6" duct going the the chimey. The problems that I'm having is that the stove runs for a short period of time then shuts off and I go through alot of wood in the winter. Do I have it hooked up wrong or do I need another thermostat because I have two blowers? Or do I eliminate one of the blowers and just use the one off the furnace? Thanks
Moddoo
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe start a new thread with some decent pics of your setup.
Somebody will be able to help with more info.
shaunbagone
ArboristSite Member
Yea, after I thought about it im taking in about half the air that im expecting it to put out. So I should assume that I should atleast have 2 8" intakes? Do you think that this will significanly help the heat output into the house?
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Flex duct is a last resort, it really reduces flow, by creating turbulence in the pipe, another thiing to keep in mind is, each 90* elbow is like adding 10' of straight pipe, so try to work with other methods for better flow.
THe DAKA installation manual describes a 10">8">6" to the cold air intake on the fan, follow their instructions, it makes quite a difference.
I removed 100' of flex duct from my system, installed rigid duct from the store, much better velocity at the registers.
aandabooks
Addicted to ArboristSite
I run 2 8" ducts into the plenum of the furnace from about 3' away. They go straight up from the Daka to the level of the plenum, turn 90 degrees and head into the plenum.
On the gas furnace, I have a secondary thermostat for the blower installed in the plenum. It is a Honeywell snapdisc control and it is set so that the blower on the furnace doesn't kick on until the plenum reaches 90 degrees. There is also a top level. I use this so that the blower on the gas furnace doesn't kick on when the air in the plenum is too cold and defeats the woodburner by sending cold air through the house.
The snap disc controller that comes on the Daka is set to turn on when the air jacket reaches 110 degrees and is not adjustable. With the temperatures only being in the 30s at night and 50s during the day here in Central Illinois, I haven't even had the blower on the gas furnace on. Just moved the temperature setting up to 150 and it won't come on.
Matt
On the gas furnace, I have a secondary thermostat for the blower installed in the plenum. It is a Honeywell snapdisc control and it is set so that the blower on the furnace doesn't kick on until the plenum reaches 90 degrees. There is also a top level. I use this so that the blower on the gas furnace doesn't kick on when the air in the plenum is too cold and defeats the woodburner by sending cold air through the house.
The snap disc controller that comes on the Daka is set to turn on when the air jacket reaches 110 degrees and is not adjustable. With the temperatures only being in the 30s at night and 50s during the day here in Central Illinois, I haven't even had the blower on the gas furnace on. Just moved the temperature setting up to 150 and it won't come on.
Matt
shaunbagone
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the advice. I thought maybee I was getting turbulance from the flex pipe. The ducts run about 6 ft. to the wall then another 15 ft. inside the basement to the plentum. There are quite a few bends along the way. If I replace the flex with rigid and add bigger intake I should see a good result. As for now im OK but I guess its just something to play with until I get the results I want. I love the garage being warm!!
aandabooks
Addicted to ArboristSite
shaunbagone,
In the Daka book it says that the units are not to be put in a garage. What did you do to yours to make it safe for garage operation? I had thought of doing it anyway just for convenience but running the pipes to the basement would be a serious problem. Now I'm looking for a small woodburner to put in the garage. Not for all the time heat but just to fire up about an hour before I want to work in the garage.
Matt
In the Daka book it says that the units are not to be put in a garage. What did you do to yours to make it safe for garage operation? I had thought of doing it anyway just for convenience but running the pipes to the basement would be a serious problem. Now I'm looking for a small woodburner to put in the garage. Not for all the time heat but just to fire up about an hour before I want to work in the garage.
Matt
shaunbagone
ArboristSite Member
aandabooks,
I called the company to ask why I couldnt put it in the garage. Daka told me many people use them in a garage and there was no problem with that. Sounded more like a liability thing to me. Also depends on what your insurance company thinks about it. I havent had my ins. guy out yet.
I called the company to ask why I couldnt put it in the garage. Daka told me many people use them in a garage and there was no problem with that. Sounded more like a liability thing to me. Also depends on what your insurance company thinks about it. I havent had my ins. guy out yet.
When you hook up the daka to your existing furnace and use the big furnace blower on the existing, do you need someone kind of a backdraft damper in the ducts going from the woodburner to the exhisting so the blower doesnt create cold air and cut out your small blowers warm air ?
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
There are a few ways to run the 8" ducts into the warm air plenum to avoid the situation you are talking about, the installation manual covers a couple of recommendations. The backdraft damper they cover in the manual is to prevent very hot air going the wrong way into your furnaces secondary and causing damage.
In my case, I installed thermostatic switch to control the large fan based on plenum temperature, it's set to come on at 135*, and turn off at 85*. That gives the nice warm air when the blower cycles on.
Regarding the large fan overpowering the small fan, you could have the ducts from the daka enter your system a little downstream from the plenum, and have them enter at an angle, not connected at 90*, it's worked for some, there's pics in this forum too.
You could always set it up in a series configuration, some of the guys here have had success with that and only run one fan then.
This thread has some pics:http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=53916
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Tell me about the backdraft dampers that are spring loaded and fit in with the 8". The are recomended on the norseman furnace. Would a damper like that be suitable ?
Sorry to hijack this thread but I am in the boat of a newly purchased Daka 521FB and in need of help installing this.
I have been searching the forums, but I think I'm over complicating the install in my head. But I do have concerns:
1. I do not have a chimney
2. Little knowledge of Furnaces - So when I read plenum, and seen the images/drawings I figured it is the immediate box above the existing furnace Right? or wrong?
3. Need some guidance - Im good with tools and Im sure I have what it takes to complete this task, just lack the knowledge
Can I get some help?
Please see attached to see some images of my basement set up near my furnace and Daka wood burner
Background on home:
Wisconsin - winter will be here soon
Just purchased - 2900 sqft
no Chimney
Two story home
I have been searching the forums, but I think I'm over complicating the install in my head. But I do have concerns:
1. I do not have a chimney
2. Little knowledge of Furnaces - So when I read plenum, and seen the images/drawings I figured it is the immediate box above the existing furnace Right? or wrong?
3. Need some guidance - Im good with tools and Im sure I have what it takes to complete this task, just lack the knowledge
Can I get some help?
Please see attached to see some images of my basement set up near my furnace and Daka wood burner
Background on home:
Wisconsin - winter will be here soon
Just purchased - 2900 sqft
no Chimney
Two story home
