John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
From what I can see in the trenching pictures I would have gone deeper. What is the average depth of the trenches?
Air knife/air spade
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From what I can see in the trenching pictures I would have gone deeper. What is the average depth of the trenches?
kennertree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Went about 8 inches most of the time its deeper in spots though. I should have went deeper to encourage those roots to go deeper.
Looks nice though, was that your first attemt with one of those things? I have to agree that must work well/seems like a good idea, most of my customers just want the trees cut down though, I like takedowns because they are easier than pruning, maybe thats just the client base I've developed, not sure. I'm starting to plant trees this week, new venture, just bought a set of new forks for the tractor/backhoe, its part of my "replacement plantings available" ploy to suck in the richies, I think I'll like it though, hey anybody can be an "axman" right!, lol. We were even talkin about brewing our own compost tea fer awhile there, my ex got NOFA certified and all, just never happened. I think thats how you take it to the next level, do more big pruning jobs if you can get em, that way you got enough work to make a second (or whatever) climber busy makin it for you, and then your takedowns are allways there also.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I look at it the other way. If you can get the pruning work, then you can turn the customer into a revolving account. If the property is big enough, then you can come in maybe once a year. Some of my clients (I sub to) have clients that they work for several times a year. Be it shrubs, invasives control, trim, remove or plant.
The more you do the less another person will be on "your" account.
I allways go back to the "Simple Math";
300 clients
with an average gross of 1000
on a 3 year cycle
is 100,000 per year.
200 day average work-year
200,000 budgeted gross income
gets you half way through the year
If you can schedule most of those for the times your bidding is slow, then it will help even more.
I like that John, I've heard you say that before just not in as much detail, makes sense, I also like the part about when you're slow, those big prune types are usually loaded as well and just want to know that thier trees are well taken care of. The main reason I dont like pruning so much is its just me, so its slow, and I get real anal about it so its even worse, I never make much at it. When I worked for this other guy there used to be three or four good guys aloft at a time, thats how you do it if ya can. For me just having another guy doing close to as much as me and doing it right would be an amazing help, ya got me thinking about my other thread with the help actually, thanks John, MDS.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
The "trick" is to bid it so you can do it well and on time. If it is one you can do on a cycle, then set it up so that one or two trees are done on any given visit. You do not have to get it all done that day.
Maybe you can concentrate on "hazard deadwood" over high use areas and tip thinning to reduce leverage loads.
One problem with getting into high income areas is that some think that those people will have a huge amount of disposable income. In reality that is a small percentage of the population, like you and me those people live within their means, or are just as much in debt.
Proposing a cycle that is manageable will help you maintain the relationship.
Work in some high-vis work with the low vis, this way you don't get all that they can see done at once, causing them to think it is done.
Quite often I'll propose not doing entire trees on a given visit, because it will be easier to transfer from one section of tree A to get something in tree B. Then go from tree A to tree C on the next visit.
Tag team's are nice, when everyone is on the same page. Find someone who is better then you to work with you on a bigger winter project. This will help you push yourself.
On the other hand it can generate so much more debris, that you get buried. I had a client 2 hours north of me. He chose to not use me any more, because it would take him 3 days to catch up on the clean-up.
Lastly, what will you have to pass on if you are a removal tech? I heard it put very well on the myXM the other day, some people can spend 10 years building themselves a great job, while another guy can start the same thing and build a business he can retire from.
If you have a client base that you can sell to as you turn the company over to whomever buys it, you will be better off as you phase out.
SpecialForces
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello if you need help building an air spade email me @ [email protected]
the spades that i have been building are about 90% as efficient as the trademarked version thats $1200 i have use them many times side by side.
Aaron Dillon
maloufstree
ArboristSite Operative
Had some time today to try out the air knife on a tree at my house. I'm real impressed with it. I did some radial trenching and between the trenches shot some holes in there for vertical mulching. Here are a few pics.
Excuse my ignorance and please bare with me. This aspect of tree work is new to me, but after the radial trenching then what your saying is back fill with compost?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Correct, I will use a sandy loam to fill in. Lots of organics, sometimes some humic soil added in.
maloufstree
ArboristSite Operative
Do you backfill yo yhe level the soil originally was? Mulch on top?
Backfill so the original grade is the same (know it may settle just a little). Then mulch the whole thing.
The trenches will be softer as you walk over the area.
I do not use sand around here. Sand+clay=cement.
The trenches will be softer as you walk over the area.
I do not use sand around here. Sand+clay=cement.
logantree
ArboristSite Lurker
Does anyone in the southwest VA area have an Air-Spade? I might need someone to do some work for me. If you're interested in doing it send me a PM.
Thanks
Thanks
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