We were just changing the shox on 020, one was fixing to go out.
i remember having saws that didn't have such things and the differences that can be inherent to their use.
They are nicer, only have 2 -009's without them but as i was showing guys:
You have to stay ahead of them, a worn one besides not functioning, can tear up wires, both for ground, and carb control and other goodies inside handles. Real bad i would think is if the rear one on like an 020 gave way and stress put a violation in boot that went from carb(after mixing gas and air) to cylinder; allowing a lot more air in mixture, possible burnout! Have found out the hard way (like long plastic tunnel boot on 019 etc.), ya never want straight air leaking in those booties, feeding to head.
An old mechanic gave us a good tip once to make shox last longer, when tightening bolts/nuts on body of saw; brace with other hand on the body of the saw not on handle that puts the pressure of your resistance through the shock system (like pressure from putting common barnuts on with long scwrench), he said it is not made for that type of pressure and angle! Also, when working on handle that is connected to antivib, brace your resistance in that handle. Always keeping the pressure from turn and tourque from unnecessarily going thru the shock system.
Replace shox in full sets ususally, they are cheap, and if you put 2 out of 3 on (like i did today cuz they have to order 3rd); like in rope work, only the stiffest (newest) will carry most of the load, wearing them out faster, and not giving full protection, isolation as the looser one can impact around.
Jest thought i'd mention it, as just got done explaining, and there might be more out there, kinda a finicky system compared to the ol'straight thru, grow hair on your palms high vib type saws, but a necessary one, especially in pro/constant use.
IMLHO
:alien:
i remember having saws that didn't have such things and the differences that can be inherent to their use.
They are nicer, only have 2 -009's without them but as i was showing guys:
You have to stay ahead of them, a worn one besides not functioning, can tear up wires, both for ground, and carb control and other goodies inside handles. Real bad i would think is if the rear one on like an 020 gave way and stress put a violation in boot that went from carb(after mixing gas and air) to cylinder; allowing a lot more air in mixture, possible burnout! Have found out the hard way (like long plastic tunnel boot on 019 etc.), ya never want straight air leaking in those booties, feeding to head.
An old mechanic gave us a good tip once to make shox last longer, when tightening bolts/nuts on body of saw; brace with other hand on the body of the saw not on handle that puts the pressure of your resistance through the shock system (like pressure from putting common barnuts on with long scwrench), he said it is not made for that type of pressure and angle! Also, when working on handle that is connected to antivib, brace your resistance in that handle. Always keeping the pressure from turn and tourque from unnecessarily going thru the shock system.
Replace shox in full sets ususally, they are cheap, and if you put 2 out of 3 on (like i did today cuz they have to order 3rd); like in rope work, only the stiffest (newest) will carry most of the load, wearing them out faster, and not giving full protection, isolation as the looser one can impact around.
Jest thought i'd mention it, as just got done explaining, and there might be more out there, kinda a finicky system compared to the ol'straight thru, grow hair on your palms high vib type saws, but a necessary one, especially in pro/constant use.
IMLHO
:alien:
