Anyone have any experience with this 394 top end kit?

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I'm not sure how the shop's puller is set up to work. I'm not too worried about the bearings staying in the cases as it should be easier to remove them from there as opposed to the crank..at least that has been my experience with other engines I have done.

 

[Foragefarmer]

+1 on the base gasket delete.



Mine with half a tank though it.

I got a Meteor piston for it which included a wrist pin bearing but since it wasn't supplied by Meteor. In other words it wasn't in their box. I got an OEM bearing.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Copy that.

I just ordered a Meteor piston, OEM gasket set, Walbro carb kit, and OEM wrist pin bearing from Baileys last night. I wasn't sure if Meteor included a wrist pin bearing as some suppliers state they do, and others don't.

It's kind of cool how relatively cheap saws are to rebuild. I'm used to spending $150 on a piston! Lol! And so far

 

[MGoBlue]

+1 on the base gasket delete. I got a Meteor piston for it

I stopped pulling w/ a 185, which wasn't a fun task. It got the 395 Meteor and OE seals.
Put another port in the muff and the owner will wonder what ya did to his saw!

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well, I got the saw all together tonight and was hoping to report that I got it running good...

But apparently I have done something wrong.

Pulled the saw over a few times with the kill switch off... Stupid I know. Pulled the cord about a half dozen times. Turned the switch on and it fired. Pulled again and it started and ran a few seconds and quit. Seems like it's flooding like crazy.. lots of raw fuel inside the the engine, blowing out of the decomp vents and coating the cylinder.

I did get a carb kit from Baileys. I am not sure what I did wrong but I think it is carb related. I was thinking I put the intake spacer on upside down, but remembered that the intake tract won't seat in the cradle unless it is correct.

Tomorrow I will pull the top end so I can take the carb apart again and see if I can find my problem, unless you guys can advise me on another thing I should check.

It will run if I can figure out why it is flooding so severely.

 

[MGoBlue]

Maybe unrelated... when my son rebuilt his 55, he set the carb needles to the recommended number of turns. Same thing happened, he pulled and pulled only getting 2 or 3 fires on about the 6-7th pull, then nothing. We pulled the plug and noticed everything was soaked. I leaned out both jets 1/2 turn or so and it lit off, then we were able to adjust and keep it running.

EDIT: just wanted to post that the base line set was off pretty far in this experience.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well, this saw does have stops on the jets so I can only turn them so far in each direction.

I'll give it a try though before tearing back into it.

It DOES have good spark too.

I wonder too of it's possible I shot myself in the foot pulling it over with the kill switch in the off position as well. I can't believe I did that, I know better!

 

[dsell]

It's not that big of deal to forget to flip the switch on, it didn't hurt the saw. Why would you pull the top end to take the carb apart? Maybe I'm confused on your meaning. Sounds to me like the inlet needle is not sealing for some reason. Maybe it's stuck, set incorrectly, gasket and diaphragm in the wrong order. Look at the parts break down for the carb and make sure the gaskets are in the correct order. Someone suggested a bit of baking soda on the end of a Qtip to clean the needle seat. I've never done it, but it sounds reasonable. Also, why do you still have the limiters on the carb needles? How did you clean and kit the carburetor without pulling the needles?

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Got it fellas!!!

I attempted to start the saw after I let it air out with the muffler off and spark plug removed overnight and all day today while I was at work. Popped a little bit then nothing.

So I was able to pull the carb thanks to a hole someone before me drilled in the carb compartement (or whatever you call the bottom section of plastic the airbox lid fastens to) I was able to get the left side carb mount bolt out.

I pulled the pump diaphragm to verify that I put it and the gasket in the correct order.. I did. The carb was not dirty at all the first go-round but I gave it another once-over for good measure. I went ahead and used a heated razor blade to remove the jet stops and pull the jets to make sure the jet orifices were clear.

After I did this I turned to the pump diaphragm.. It was then I noticed that the center button on the diaphragm is slotted and was supposed to cage the end of the needle lever! I haven't seen one like that yet, but this is only the second Husky carb I have had to open up. All other diaphragm carbs I have messed with have not been set up this way.. I missed it when I installed the new kit the first time.

So I got it all back together and she lives!!!

I ran it for about 10 minutes, on and off the throttle but no load. I don't have any big blocks handy to run the saw in wood at this time. But at least I was able to get a good heat cycle on that new piston. I'm sure it will need a little more fine tuning once getting the bar to wood, but I got it pretty close as-is.

Glad I was able to figure this out and get this saw rippin' again for my friend!! Unfortunately, he won't sell it to me! LOL!

Thank you all for taking the time to offer advice and pointers!

 

[decableguy2000]

Way to stay with it. When using a Husqvarna case splitter the bearings will stay in case. It's fun to have a big saw, I'm still waiting to find some wood to run 394xp in.

Jeremy

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well, I figure I should update this thread since there have have some issues..well, one actually. I have been conversing with members on a couple of other threads on this but figured I would resume the conversation here since it's about this saw in particular.

I did get it running better... But I was having all sorts of trouble getting the low end dialed in.

Now before I go much further I will disclose that I have not leak-down tested this saw. I just haven't built a saw sized leak-down tester yet. I built one for my 250r's but those components are a tad big for use on a saw..

However, I have done my share of crank bearings and seals. I examined the seals very carefully after installation to verify they didn't sustain any damage during installation.. I'm pretty confident that leaking seals is not my issue.

It should be noted that in an attempt to seal up any possible gasket leaks I went ahead and removed the top end again, deleted the base gasket and sealed using Threebond. I also Threebonded the intake spacer/cylinder gasket and carb/intake spacer gasket, being careful to not over-do it and obstruct the pulse ports. It did seem to run a bit better, but still the low speed was refusing to dial in and stay reliable.

In another thread it was suggested that I check/replace the plastic intake spacer block as it seems they are prone to developing a small crack that mostly gives trouble on the low side. I was also looking at installing a nipple in the base of the cyl and on the pump cover of the carb and converting it to an external pulse line like the 395. After finding out that I couldn't just get those fittings from my Husky dealer I decided to go ahead and order a new intake spacer block.

I also have a known good running carb on my bench I received from a member here as I think I ruined the check valve/nozzle in the existing carb when I was cleaning it prior to putting in a carb kit.

So, here is how it sits now: I have a good running used carb waiting to be installed along with a new OEM intake spacer block when that comes in.

If these don't cure it, I may be forced to install a second set of new crank seals... and build a saw sized leak-down tester!!! (especially the latter since this same friend gave me a box-o-375xp that needs a piston and I suspect crank bearings!LOL!)


As to the leak down tester: What materials do you fellows make the intake and exhaust plates out of?? With this 394, I would need 2 flat plates that will bolt up to both the intake and exhaust with 2 bolts and seal them off. Plumbing a Schrader valve and gauge into one or the other should be fairly simple once I figure out what to use for block-off plates.

 

[MGoBlue]

I use a piece of rubber inner tube and these

 

[dsell]

I used poly chrome and inner tube rubber for gaskets.

 

[decableguy2000]

I use a rubber sealing tape between the carb/spacer and between muffler/cylinder and use the Husqvarna adapter 503 84 40-02 less than 10 bucks and a craftsman mityvac inner tube can be used to seal it.

Jeremy

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well fellas, THE 394 RIPS AGAIN!! I GOT IT!!

Sorry about the caps, I'm just very excited that I was able to get the last bugs ironed out on this old war horse.

I picked up a new intake spacer block and a good used carb from a member here. 1st attempt it wouldn't run. So I pulled the carb and swapped in the new carb kit parts that were in the other carb. This new-to-me carb is an older unit, it does not have the jet stops, and has the long fuel inlet needle.

I had to do some flip-flopping of parts, but all said and done, she idles perfectly, throttles up crisp, and cuts like mad!!

This was really bothering me, more so than if it were my own saw.. Because a friend gave me the $300 to buy parts for this saw and told me to keep what was left even though I insisted I wasn't in this to make money off him. My biggest fear and the reason I was so frustrated with this was that I might have to hand him the saw back and tell him I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run right... But all is well!!

I have tried to sweet talk him into selling me the old war horse but he keeps declining... I will be returning the saw to him when I return to work monday (we are coworkers) but I'll be playing a little trick on him.. I'm going to hand him my 136 and tell him I cleaned the 394 and that is all that was left! LOL!

Thanks again to all who took the time to give me advice on this. Merry Christmas!