Bar Maintenance - are some bars super hard?

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Mauser

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I am brand new here guys - been lurking a while, but finally decided to participate. I am not very experienced with saws, but generally a pretty experienced all-around mechanic. I am not overly knowledgeable in metalwork, although I do dabble in welding and repair.

I have always done my own chain sharpening, but never knew what needed to be done for bar maintenance until I spent time in these forums.

My first saw is a 40 year old little Homelite Super2 with a 14" bar (I bought it new). I also have a 20 year old Poulan 2900 and an Echo CS590. I did my first bar dressing on the Poulan today with good results. The bar was an aftermarket "Power Care" (Home Depot bar and chain combo) that seemed like it was in fair condition. I started with an almost new 10" Bastard file, which seemed to cut as easy and fast as I expected. I then finished it up with a brand new Chinese copy of the commercial bar dresser to make sure the rails were square, and that also cut well.

So with that success under my belt, I decided to see what I could do with the old Homelite bar. That saw had been cutting crooked and stopping half way through a log (not binding, just stopped cutting), and I recently bought a new Oregon bar and chain for it. It was pretty clear that the old bar was very sloppy with lots of chain flop side-to-side, so I was curious if I could bring it back with my new knowledge. But to my surprise, those same new files that worked so well on the Poulan 20" bar would not hardly touch the little Homelite bar! It felt like dragging an old worn-out file over glass - no cutting at all. I finally had to dress the bar with my old body grinder to do anything at all (and even after I got done, the bar still seems pretty sloppy with the old chain).

I could not believe that I had totally worn out those two new files on the first bar, but I didn't have any better explanation on why I could not get them to cut on the Homelite. So I pulled out the old original Poulan bar for that 2900 - it was pretty sloppy too. And much to my surprise, those two files cut it like butter, just like they had done with the first bar!

I have beat the snot out of that little Homelite over the years, and it has never given me a bit of trouble, but I always just assumed it was a pretty low-quality garden-grade tool for the weekend homeowner. So why does it seem to have a Teutonic bar made out of super-hard steel? Is this normal?
 
The bar may have gotten wear hardened over the years. May also be better steel.


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Welcome to A.S.!

Yes, some bars are harder than others. On basic, laminated bars the rails are induction hardened to resist wear - if you sand a little paint away from the edges you will see a blue line from this. On others, especially higher quality solid bars, they start with a harder steel. These rails are often ground instead of filed.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...Tools/Bar-Rail-Grinder-with-Grinder-Wheel.axd

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-dressing.295327/

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-dressing.315936/

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/another-way-to-dress-a-bar.250111/

Philbert
 
You say the chain is real sloppy. Are you sure you purchased the correct chain for the bar? The groove the chain rides in comes in different widths. Could be a .058 bar and an .050 chain.
 
You say the chain is real sloppy. Are you sure you purchased the correct chain for the bar? The groove the chain rides in comes in different widths. Could be a .058 bar and an .050 chain.
Probably not the case here as the little Homelite’s only came in .050. Most likely the rails have spread.

New NOS Homelite bars are still available from the Chainsawlady, a member here.
 
The OEM bar on the "Homie would be better quality than more recent box store stocked saws Price is the factor laminated bars are usually the lower divisions Sugihara, Tsumura, Total, & Cannon, are the "dogs doodahs" the Blount offerings & Stihl have cheap to good bars & the many aftermarket ones fall anywhere between the top & bottom
 
In fifty two years of chain saw operations and several thousand cords have yet to touch a bar. I have one 24'' bar that wore sloppy with 3/8'' .050 then got sloppy with with .058 and finally is using .063. That does not mean that some saws do not cut crooked. Many years ago when working at a Stihl dealer I saw bars that were a year old that looked like some one ran one side through a grinder. I would think that you have used a file to clean up your bar now it should be good to go for years. Yes bars do wear seems like hard nose bars wear faster though. Not all bars are made equal. Since you have mastered the art of sharpening you should be able to make a huge pile of chips with out much effort. My bar maintenance consists of running a chain until its gone take the bar off clean saw and bar put bar on opposite than it was with new chain. Thanks
 
In fifty two years of chain saw operations and several thousand cords have yet to touch a bar. I have one 24'' bar that wore sloppy with 3/8'' .050 then got sloppy with with .058 and finally is using .063. That does not mean that some saws do not cut crooked. Many years ago when working at a Stihl dealer I saw bars that were a year old that looked like some one ran one side through a grinder. I would think that you have used a file to clean up your bar now it should be good to go for years. Yes bars do wear seems like hard nose bars wear faster though. Not all bars are made equal. Since you have mastered the art of sharpening you should be able to make a huge pile of chips with out much effort. My bar maintenance consists of running a chain until its gone take the bar off clean saw and bar put bar on opposite than it was with new chain. Thanks


Bars wear and need maintenance, plain and simple.

I get 2-3 weeks out of a bar before I need to grind the rails.... maybe 100hrs or so. Get around 1000hrs out of a bar. That is a .404 .080" setup.

We do in the area of 400-500 cords a year.
 
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