Bar Reconditioning

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mpyoung33

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 8, 2010
Messages
70
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9
Location
Emlenton, PA
I have a 68" bar that needs reconditioning and I can't find anywhere in Western Pa that does it. My last bar was sent to Chain Bar Repairing in Portland, Oregon. They are a great company but the shipping cost is killing me and I would like to find a repair shop a little closer to home. Any input would be appreciated.
 
How much "conditioning"? True the rails? Replace nose? Close rails? Is there anything you can do yourself? I don't think there's much to these that's unique to them, just basic mechanics and metal working - make everything straight, square, smooth and true. One can do a lot with a properly set up belt grinder, a vice, and a BFH.
 
What all does your bar need to have done to it? Lopsided rails, bent, twisted, bad nose, spread rails......? Is it solid nose or replaceable nose? Most problems are fixable with suitable standard shop equipment. I probably could do it some good, but it gets expensive to ship something that long. I get for free many easily fixable bars from local dealers who naturally want to sell new bars rather than repair old bars.
 
There's a shop just north of the where the March Western PA GTG will be that is known for chain sharpening and saw repair. I can check to see if they do bar reconditioning. What do you need to have done?
 
How much "conditioning"? True the rails? Replace nose? Close rails? Is there anything you can do yourself? I don't think there's much to these that's unique to them, just basic mechanics and metal working - make everything straight, square, smooth and true. One can do a lot with a properly set up belt grinder, a vice, and a BFH.

Ok thanks for replying. The bar is a double ender off a package saw used for cross cutting dimensional lumber specifically Spruce, Pine, and Fir. I've only owned this saw for a little over a year and I have very little experience with chainsaws. The bar doesn't look bent but the rails are worn about a 1/16" on both sides of the bar. I'm not sure if this requires hardfacing or not. The worn bar rails were making my cuts wavy instead of smooth. Hope this is enough information to point me in the right direction. Here's a video of me operating the saw for the first time. Thanks again!

YouTube - ‪L-M Equipment Verticut 2000 cross cut unit saw.AVI‬‏
 
68" BAR !!!

heck I wanna see that puppy> does it come with a helper to hold it up? I've only seen a 60 and that beast was HEAVY and bent over if you turned it on its side. That saw attached to an 084 was waaaaay HEAVY !!!

Photos please !!!

Lol....It's not that exciting. It's a package saw attached to a hydraulic carriage. I posted a video.
 
You can square the rails yourself by running them past a disc sander, I use a 10" disc in my table saw to make sure it stays square.

You can get a bar rail closer from Baileys for around $30, or just use an hammer and a shim in the groove and close them carefully.

If it requires welding up and grinding back to spec's, be prepared to open you wallet...

173653d1298552613-dscn0098-jpg


Mark
 
View attachment 173702
I can do it. I am a little closer than out west in NE Ohio. There are some good movies on you tube about it..Bob

You're pretty close about 85 miles from me. Do you have a repair shop and what would you charge for something like this? I can't really tell you how bad the bar is because I'm new to this. Here's what the bar looks like and if I put a level on both sides of the bar it is plumb.




The grooves are worn maybe a 1/16" on the inside. I can't find any black and white images of what the bar groves look like or I would post an image of it. I know I saw them on some website but I can't find them anywhere.
 
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You can square the rails yourself by running them past a disc sander, I use a 10" disc in my table saw to make sure it stays square.

You can get a bar rail closer from Baileys for around $30, or just use an hammer and a shim in the groove and close them carefully.

If it requires welding up and grinding back to spec's, be prepared to open you wallet...

Mark

The bar is about $800 and I don't trust myself messing around with it when I have no clue what I am doing. Maybe some day I will have the skills to do it on my own.
 
View attachment 173702

You're pretty close about 85 miles from me. Do you have a repair shop and what would you charge for something like this?
It prob would be easier to put some tools in my car and drive over to your shop. I have an extra sanding disc for a table saw like heimannm shows if you need it. I don't use it anymore because i bought a 12" disc sander. I have a machine/fab/weld shop and all the right tools. What gauge is your bar? prob .063 Bob

You are right off I 80 which is easy enough for me to get to.
 
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It prob would be easier to put some tools in my car and drive over to your shop. I have an extra sanding disc for a table saw like heimannm shows if you need it. I don't use it anymore because i bought a 12" disc sander. I have a machine/fab/weld shop and all the right tools. What gauge is your bar? prob .063 Bob

You are right off I 80 which is easy enough for me to get to.

.063 is correct and yeah my plant is off I-80. I don't own a good table saw but thanks for offering. I'm not even sure how the process of reconditioning a saw works. When there are grooves worn about a 1/16" do you just sand it down or does it need hardfacing? If I put a straight edge on the bar vertically there is no gap so I'm guessing the rails are worn out. I'm listening if somebody wants to educate me. Thanks!
 
There's a shop just north of the where the March Western PA GTG will be that is known for chain sharpening and saw repair. I can check to see if they do bar reconditioning. What do you need to have done?

I'm interested if you can get me a name and phone #. Thanks!
 
.063 is correct and yeah my plant is off I-80. I don't own a good table saw but thanks for offering. I'm not even sure how the process of reconditioning a saw works. When there are grooves worn about a 1/16" do you just sand it down or does it need hardfacing? If I put a straight edge on the bar vertically there is no gap so I'm guessing the rails are worn out. I'm listening if somebody wants to educate me. Thanks!

I would just sand off the rails until smooth and straight. Now if the depth of the groove needs changed thats another problem, you don't want the links hitting the bottom and the side straps with a gap under them. .063 would be the easiest to fix...Bob
Here is a great vid...
YouTube - ‪The chainsaw guy LONG SAW BAR REPAIR 10 13‬‏
 
Great video and I think it's safe to say I will never be reconditioning my own bars. I can't believe a thrown chain can do that type of damage.

The guy from Chain Bar Repairing in Oregon should be calling me today to let me know what the damage is for the bar I sent him. The bar I am currently using is just as bad so when I find out I will post details.
 
I know a machine shop thats 1 hour south of you that can do anything you would like with any piece of metal you bring him. The shop is in Saxonburg. I had him make me custom bar studs and stuff like that. He's an oldtime machinist and does small jobs that I can't get people to do anymore.
 
I know a machine shop thats 1 hour south of you that can do anything you would like with any piece of metal you bring him. The shop is in Saxonburg. I had him make me custom bar studs and stuff like that. He's an oldtime machinist and does small jobs that I can't get people to do anymore.

Yeah Saxonburg is very close to me. Do you have a name and #?
 
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