Best Bar Size for MS440 Magnum

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ChucktheCanuck

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
18
Reaction score
27
Location
Keswick Ridge New Brunswick Canada
Hi. So I've been running my 440 with a 16" bar from the time I purchased it new, about 3 years or so. I run a firewood bundle business ($5.00 bundles only), and I use it constantly to process about 36 to 42 cord per year. I don't cut down trees or anything like that; I get my wood delivered in 6 cord loads of semi tree length? (16' to 20') and usually have 12 - 15 cord settin in the yard up at the shop where I do all my processing.

So as far as the chainsaw in concerned, all I do is use it to chunk up 16" blocks; I generally cut up about 1.5 cord and then start splitting and stacking. But lately (as in the last year) I've been struggling with a heck of a lot of lower back pain, particularly when using the chainsaw. I try to kneel down when cutting, but some times with smaller pieces it just seems to be a lot quicker and easier to step on the wood to hold it in place and cut it, but I have to bend over some to do this, and boyz oh boyz does the old back ever start screamin after a bit of cutting like this..... So now I'm thinking that I should just get a bigger bar so I don't have to lean over, or at least not as much, to cut when standing up. I was thinking a 24" or even a 28" bar? What think ye about such an idea?

Thanks in advance.
 
I haven't ran or been around anyone with a 440, however if a 441 is still comparable and not out class a 440 then I run a 28" on a 441 for hazard tree falling and bucking blow down at work and it handles that fine. Trouble is all the other knuckleheads that don't know how to file a chain but that's another subject. My personal saw is an ms460 and it runs 32" and 36" without issue all the time if that's any help for comparison sake. I too have back trouble so that's why I have the 32 and 36, for me the 28" seems the shortest I can sorta comfortably run at 6' 4" tall but as often as I use the 441 I'm sure the boss ain't gonna spring for a brand new 32" bar lol
 
It sounds like the 16 is perfect for your purposes. The bar should be parallel to the ground when cutting. Trying to use just the tip isn't a good idea. I do understand your health issues but elevating the pieces to be cut is a safer way to go about the cure.
 
It sounds like the 16 is perfect for your purposes. The bar should be parallel to the ground when cutting. Trying to use just the tip isn't a good idea. I do understand your health issues but elevating the pieces to be cut is a safer way to go about the cure.
Thanks for the feedback. I don't think that elevation is going to be an option. I don't have equipment to lift tree, or semi-tree length wood off of he ground for cutting. And I agree that getting down on 1 knee and cutting with the bar parallel to the ground is optimum, but sometimes it's just plain easier to cut up wood while standing, hence the idea about an extended bar..... The other thing that I've been thinking is that I've got a saw that can pull a heck of a lot more than a 16" chain so why not make use of it's inherent possibilities......
 
I haven't ran or been around anyone with a 440, however if a 441 is still comparable and not out class a 440 then I run a 28" on a 441 for hazard tree falling and bucking blow down at work and it handles that fine. Trouble is all the other knuckleheads that don't know how to file a chain but that's another subject. My personal saw is an ms460 and it runs 32" and 36" without issue all the time if that's any help for comparison sake. I too have back trouble so that's why I have the 32 and 36, for me the 28" seems the shortest I can sorta comfortably run at 6' 4" tall but as often as I use the 441 I'm sure the boss ain't gonna spring for a brand new 32" bar lol
Yeah I think the 440 and the 441 are both comparable.... I'm
I haven't ran or been around anyone with a 440, however if a 441 is still comparable and not out class a 440 then I run a 28" on a 441 for hazard tree falling and bucking blow down at work and it handles that fine. Trouble is all the other knuckleheads that don't know how to file a chain but that's another subject. My personal saw is an ms460 and it runs 32" and 36" without issue all the time if that's any help for comparison sake. I too have back trouble so that's why I have the 32 and 36, for me the 28" seems the shortest I can sorta comfortably run at 6' 4" tall but as often as I use the 441 I'm sure the boss ain't gonna spring for a brand new 32" bar lol
I never thought about my height being a factor! Duooohhh.... I used to be 5"8" when I was a young-un, so I'm probably still up around there some.....:(
 
The benefit of the 24" is that the dealer carries 24" chains in stock, but has to order the 28" or bigger.....
That's a bummer for the 28" chain, I don't think of things like that cuz I'm sorta spoiled in that sense as a cousin my dad grew up with logs for himself and makes chain...........so he makes my ol man and I a new one every once in awhile or hands us down his almost used up chains
 
Personally I don't run anything shorter then a 32" bar but I'm in the PNW this includes hardwoods and conifers, any shorter and my back hurts bumping knots well I'm walking down the log.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
The benefit of the 24" is that the dealer carries 24" chains in stock, but has to order the 28" or bigger.....

Huh?? Any dealer I have been to carries chain in bulk and can make up any chain size you want.

I just had one make up 3 skip tooth 16" 3/8" chains for my MS361. Tried it out yesterday. Wow, what difference it makes on cutting up small gage stuff (up to about 14" diameter). Amazingly more nimble with it than I was with a 20 or 24" bar.

Makes a big difference on filing too :)
 
Huh?? Any dealer I have been to carries chain in bulk and can make up any chain size you want.
Now I think I deserve a good slap upside the head, because that's a dang good point; the so-called "dealer" that I've referred to isn't really what I'd categorize as an expert in the art of logging, or experts overall in anything; I'd actually call them more of a small wannabe "big box store" if pressed to call them anything. What I should have done a long time ago is to take myself a little drive (about an hour away) to where the "real saw expert" resides. He's also the guy that sold me this saw in the first place. A small country store type Stihl dealer, saws and loggers are probably the meat and potatoes of his business, and he's been running his shop since his father passed it on to him when he decided to ease off on running the store full time .... Whereas the "dealer" only carries up to 24" chain in stock (no 24" bars though), the man probably carries all sorts of bars and chain in stock to satisfy any configuration the loggers want or need to work with..... What an idjit....:(
 
I just had one make up 3 skip tooth 16" 3/8" chains for my MS361. Tried it out yesterday. Wow, what difference it makes on cutting up small gage stuff (up to about 14" diameter). Amazingly more nimble with it than I was with a 20 or 24" bar.

Makes a big difference on filing too :)

I run a 16" bar with 3/8 pitch full chisel chain on my 036. It's very fun to use for bucking softwood. Light and nimble but with great power. I've got lighter saws with better limbing chain, but the 036 is light enough to do the job if need be. I know these guys out west run big bars on this size saw, but I like running short bars and having some extra power.
 
Couple of things, about bar length:
- what will the powerhead pull when the bar is fully buried?
- what length with the saw oil?
- what size wood are you cutting?
etc.

Your saw will pull a 24 / 25 inch (and longer) bar fine.

*But another point is how the saw balances with different length bars*. You almost have to try them side-by-side to appreciate the difference. A longer bar will also weigh more, which may be an issue with your back pain. Since you only really need a 16 inch bar, maybe you want to consider a lighter saw that will still pull that length - e.g a good 50 to 60cc saw, with a lower, total weight that you lift?

Philbert
 
Couple of things, about bar length:
- what will the powerhead pull when the bar is fully buried?
- what length with the saw oil?
- what size wood are you cutting?
etc.

Your saw will pull a 24 / 25 inch (and longer) bar fine.

*But another point is how the saw balances with different length bars*. You almost have to try them side-by-side to appreciate the difference. A longer bar will also weigh more, which may be an issue with your back pain. Since you only really need a 16 inch bar, maybe you want to consider a lighter saw that will still pull that length - e.g a good 50 to 60cc saw, with a lower, total weight that you lift?

Philbert
Thanks for the thoughts Philbert. I'm not quite ready to admit that "I really only need a 16 in bar" at all, if only for the fact that I constantly find myself standing, albeit in a back-killing bent posture, to cut up tree lengths. This repeated cutting procedure (and the associated pain) are what gave birth to the realization that I do indeed need a longer bar for this saw. And if I were to get the 25" ES Light bar and chain combo I could potentially see the overall weight of the saw go down while simultaneously increasing the reach of my bar by 8 or 9," and that would be a total score from my point of view.....
 
Thanks for the thoughts Philbert. I'm not quite ready to admit that "I really only need a 16 in bar" at all, if only for the fact that I constantly find myself standing, albeit in a back-killing bent posture, to cut up tree lengths. This repeated cutting procedure (and the associated pain) are what gave birth to the realization that I do indeed need a longer bar for this saw. And if I were to get the 25" ES Light bar and chain combo I could potentially see the overall weight of the saw go down while simultaneously increasing the reach of my bar by 8 or 9," and that would be a total score from my point of view.....
Normally a nose heavy saw feels better to me take your saw and hang it find a set up that is slightly nose heavy of helps my back.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top