Best Penetrating Oil?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Next time you get a choke tube stuck, take your wifes blowdryer and blow a little warm air on the barrell. Wont hurt the blueing, your only trying to get it warm. My wife's old blow dryer is how I install crank bearings on saw cranks and in the cases. It doesnt take a high temp heat gun, just a little patience
 
After 24 hours of soaking it in PB it came off. I scuffed the outside of the choke tube but that was all. I'll clean up the inside if the barrel good and put some grease on the threads when I put the new X-Full tube in.
I have had better luck with anti seize than grease
 
Real good stuff.
I have never seen that large of a can of it.
I hide my little can of it from "The Drenchers" who think it works better if there is a big ol puddle under it
Not cheap but a lifetime supply for me.
 
I've heard that Blaster has outsold about all other brands for years. That includes Liquid Wrench and WD40. However, I have not seen sales figures.

Forum, I tried using Liquid Wrench to separate a spark plug from a threaded insert yesterday. That failed. The threaded insert came out of the cylinder along with the plug. Vice grips and wrench would not get do it. Any ideas on how to get them apart and then reseal the insert by itself?

OR ideally, what about driving the insert back in with the plug intact and then remove the plug with the insert remaining in place, separating it from the plug while doing so? I figure somebody else here must have run into this puppy.
 
I've heard that Blaster has outsold about all other brands for years. That includes Liquid Wrench and WD40. However, I have not seen sales figures.

Forum, I tried using Liquid Wrench to separate a spark plug from a threaded insert yesterday. That failed. The threaded insert came out of the cylinder along with the plug. Vice grips and wrench would not get do it. Any ideas on how to get them apart and then reseal the insert by itself?

OR ideally, what about driving the insert back in with the plug intact and then remove the plug with the insert remaining in place, separating it from the plug while doing so? I figure somebody else here must have run into this puppy.

Edwin -

If you can get a new insert, that's what I would go with; it won't be easy to get the old one off the plug.

Having said that, if you want to give it a try, I would mix up some 50/50 - acetone and ATF - and soak it. That will work better than Liquid Wrench. Use a wire brush and/or pick to get rid of the rust that you can get to so the 50/50 can get into the threads. I would hit it with a propane torch and get it good and hot. Once it cools off, I would reinstall the insert and see if you can remove it. If you installed it with Loctite red then it's less likely to come out again.

Scott
 
If you go to Kroil's (Kano laboratories) website they will send you 2 large cans for like $12.00 I think. I did this about 4 years ago I didn't call it too expensive.

Trial Offer Order Form - Kroil/AeroKroil
Risk Free Kano Guarantee


Try any Kano product with no risk to you. If it ever fails to meet your expectations we will immediately cancel the charge. It costs you nothing! ------ There is no risk to you! ------
Please e-mail the form below or call us at 1-800-311-3374.
Your order will be sent the next day and we guarantee your satisfaction.

FREE
Aerosol Deal




1 FREE can of AEROKROIL, the oil that creeps,
penetrating oil that loosens frozen metal parts
with any purchase - OR - substitute any
Kano aerosol, just let us know which aerosol you
prefer by selecting a substitute from the list:

Aerokroil 10 oz. aerosol can - $13.50 ea.

Aerokroil case of 12/10 oz. aerosol cans - $115.65 /cs
Aerokroil Kingsize 13 oz. aerosol can - $15.00 ea.
Aerokroil Kingsize 13 oz. case of 12/13 oz. aerosol cans - $138.15 /cs
AeroKroil Industrial Size 16.5 oz. aerosol can - $19.00 ea.
newbut2.gif

AeroKroil Industrial Size case of 12/16.5 oz. aerosol cans - $161.25 /cs
newbut2.gif

Kroil 1/2 pint (8 oz.) can - $9.50 ea.
Kroil case of 24/8 oz. cans - $168.05 /cs
Kroil 1 gal. can - $53.85
Kroil 5 gal. pail - $228.25
Kroil 15 gal. drum - $637.50
Kroil 55 gal. drum - $1,987.15

Plus transportation - UPS or Parcel Post transportation charges will be added to your order. 15/55 gallon
 
Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
 
Edwin - If you can get a new insert, that's what I would go with; it won't be easy to get the old one off the plug.

Having said that, if you want to give it a try, I would mix up some 50/50 - acetone and ATF - and soak it. That will work better than Liquid Wrench. Use a wire brush and/or pick to get rid of the rust that you can get to so the 50/50 can get into the threads. I would hit it with a propane torch and get it good and hot. Once it cools off, I would reinstall the insert and see if you can remove it. If you installed it with Loctite red then it's less likely to come out again.

Scott
Thanks a bunch, Scott. That's what I had in mind also, but I forgot about using heat from a torch. What irks me is that the guy who "fixed" this drilled out the plug hole for the insert and left shrapnel inside the jug. The drill bit also hit the piston crown. Then when the owner ran the saw, it eventually locked up the piston tight as a drum. That seems to have wrecked the compression also, so I think the whole top end is now toast.

I may try the Loctite red idea on the insert threads just to see if it works, but it's only for satisfying my curiosity and for saving a good plug. When the insert came out, I saw no trace of any adhesive on the threads.

Dang, these little Stihl MS200T saws are expensive little devils.
 
Kano Kroil is by far the best penetrating I have ever used.
I also keep some mixed up with 75% Kano Kroil and 25% Kano Penephite for the jobs that need some deep lube qualities when really rusted tight.
 
If you go to Kroil's (Kano laboratories) website they will send you 2 large cans for like $12.00 I think. I did this about 4 years ago I didn't call it too expensive.

Trial Offer Order Form - Kroil/AeroKroil
Risk Free Kano Guarantee


Try any Kano product with no risk to you. If it ever fails to meet your expectations we will immediately cancel the charge. It costs you nothing! ------ There is no risk to you! ------
Please e-mail the form below or call us at 1-800-311-3374.
Your order will be sent the next day and we guarantee your satisfaction.

FREE
Aerosol Deal




1 FREE can of AEROKROIL, the oil that creeps,
penetrating oil that loosens frozen metal parts
with any purchase - OR - substitute any
Kano aerosol, just let us know which aerosol you
prefer by selecting a substitute from the list:

Aerokroil 10 oz. aerosol can - $13.50 ea.

Aerokroil case of 12/10 oz. aerosol cans - $115.65 /cs
Aerokroil Kingsize 13 oz. aerosol can - $15.00 ea.
Aerokroil Kingsize 13 oz. case of 12/13 oz. aerosol cans - $138.15 /cs
AeroKroil Industrial Size 16.5 oz. aerosol can - $19.00 ea.
newbut2.gif

AeroKroil Industrial Size case of 12/16.5 oz. aerosol cans - $161.25 /cs
newbut2.gif

Kroil 1/2 pint (8 oz.) can - $9.50 ea.
Kroil case of 24/8 oz. cans - $168.05 /cs
Kroil 1 gal. can - $53.85
Kroil 5 gal. pail - $228.25
Kroil 15 gal. drum - $637.50
Kroil 55 gal. drum - $1,987.15

Plus transportation - UPS or Parcel Post transportation charges will be added to your order. 15/55 gallon



Just ordered the King sized can, 2 cans with Google deal $15 + $5.95 shipped.
 
We use a product called mouse milk at work, I've never seen it anywhere but aviation. It works well, and heat seems to drive it in faster
 
After 24 hours of soaking it in PB it came off. I scuffed the outside of the choke tube but that was all. I'll clean up the inside if the barrel good and put some grease on the threads when I put the new X-Full tube in.
I would also recomend some regular copper antisieze. I use the chapstick type from loctite and "work it in" = screw in-out completely a few times, after that wipe off any excess. Or I also use some molybdenium grease. Either way I would prefer something with a "permanent" staying substance that will not be easily washed out when gun cleaning. Grease alone would not be enough for me when taking into consideration the sometimes agressive gun cleaners.

I also demount on all new equipment the spark plugs and use the copper antisieze lightly on the threads to ensure "life long problem free" situation.

7
 
We use a product called mouse milk at work, I've never seen it anywhere but aviation. It works well, and heat seems to drive it in faster

Used to make “moose milk” out of water and ballistol to clean the fouling out of black power firearms. What wrenched stuff. I swear I can still smell it.
 
I would also recomend some regular copper antisieze. I use the chapstick type from loctite and "work it in" = screw in-out completely a few times, after that wipe off any excess. Or I also use some molybdenium grease. Either way I would prefer something with a "permanent" staying substance that will not be easily washed out when gun cleaning. Grease alone would not be enough for me when taking into consideration the sometimes agressive gun cleaners.

I also demount on all new equipment the spark plugs and use the copper antisieze lightly on the threads to ensure "life long problem free" situation.

7
My turkey X-full choke just arrived today. I will clean the threads and use copper antisieze. Thanks for the idea!
 
Back
Top