Brand Type of Fair lead pulley

[Tim Gardner]

Dan, I also use the Petzl Fixe. Are you using a vt hitch? If so how does the CMI work with it. The guys at Sherrrill told me the fixe works best I but never tried the CMI. I too would like to know.

 

[Rob Murphy]

Iam using CMI's they work great.

 

[hillbilly]

I use the "fixe", but that is mainly because CMIs are hard to get
in Sweden. I am not completely happy with the "fixe" since you got to have a real fat biner to with it in along with the double fisherman's loops form the distal cord.

 

[Tim Gardner]

Thanx Dan, maybe I will try the CMI pulley.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

 

[Tim Gardner]

Mike, so that's what you ment by tying the loop to the becket. Nice! how is it working?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[hillbilly]

Mike Maas prusik coord ?

Interesting setup Mike.
Just out of curiosity, is that 8 mm prussik cord ?
It has the exact same solor coding as the one I'm using
right now, picked it up in a climber's store in Sweden, otherside of the globe

 

[Tim Gardner]

Craig, what is the "right kind of cord" to use when tying into the pulley? I am using 5,000 lb 3/16 Tech Cord.

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

hillbilly,
I got that at a rock climbing outlet, I don't remember the brand off hand. It is 8mm, I think it's rated at 3800 lbs. It's probably the same, small world, hey?
I do beleive I'm going to stop using it, I'm concerned it wouldn't take a big fall, like if a big hunk pulled you down and the hitch had to run a long distance. I got this from some distructiive pull tests I did on the cord.
Craig,
Tennex sux, reminds me of three strand rope.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I'll leave the 22k Kn rating of the Fixe for another time...

Does anyone know FOR SURE!!! that the Fize is even rated to be loaded on the becket? I've got an email into Hank Moon, the Petzl tech rep, but he's out of the office until next month.

I've found that the Kong version of the pppulley works better. The becket end is alittle onger so the climbing rope doesn't rub the cord. Also, the open ends are closer together making it a more compact unit.

Tom

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Craig,

Hold onto your eraser! I'm not even sure if there's anything wrong with using the Fixe this way. Unless someone knows for sure, we'll have to wait for Hank to get back.

One really big thing to consider is that if the pulley is rigged this way only half of the climber's weight is on the pulley. That kind of negates the 22kN aspect.

Tom

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I don't know why you are concerned about the bend radius, it's bigger than the bend around the carabiner.
Is the correct term bend radius or bend ratio?
Also, in this configuration, the pulley only takes half the 5400 lb load because there are two leads to the prussic loop, as we have discussed before.

 

[Tim Gardner]

It seems to me it would be more like 1/4 on the pulley using the method like MM's pic. The vt as a whole takes half of the load and then the two legs of the vt would be 1/4 of the climber's weight each. Just a thought, I don't know for sure.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

ANSI wants the prussic loop to be rated at what the climbing line is, 5400#s.

 

[Tim Gardner]

MM,

I use a 5,000 # cord for my vt so i think it winds up at around 10,000 #.