trialanderror
ArboristSite Operative
ALLLL RIGHT.
need to heat ~8000 sq ft. 3 buildings, 4 zones. one building might need 3 zones, the 2nd zone coming from heating the floor if i pour the floor with the plumbing in it.anyways...
first some values to work with
7.48 gallons in 1 cbft of displacement
Doing some quick math.
the cl5036 is using 31 cubic ft of firebox to heat 196 gallons of water, which is 26 cbft.
nice. except we don't know what size the waterjacket is. the wj needs to hold the water, plus the firebox. call 31 and 26 60 for easy math....
hmm, the 6048's fb is, 60 cbft. interesting. now the 7260, the fb is roughly 100 cbft. heating 764 gallons.
Doing some more quick math, back to the 5036, they're heating 196 gallon with 31 cbft of firebox. So, 196/31 is ~ 6.32. using 1 cbft of firebox to heat 6.3gallons of water. the 6048 is 6.33, and the 7260 is 7.64. the bigger one theyre trying to heat more water with the same firebox displacement.
SOO, i figured of making a 6x5x4 fb, which is ~ 120 cbft. and there's 102 Cbft in 764 gallons of water. so i need ~ 222 cbft of water jacket. A 7x6.5x5 works out to 225.
Doing some more scribbling and math. I figured i'd make my firebox and wj out 3/8" thick mild steel. Probably overkill, but, if i'm going to spend my time, may as well make it thicker. If we all follow the warranty rules, your stuff always breaks just after the warranty expries.
Once again, some more math work. 4x8 is 32sqft. i need 322sq ft. so figure 10 or 11 sheets. I can get 2nd's for $250 a sheet. Figure $3000 in steel. I have loads of tin skirting to put around it and make a roof so it doesn't look all ghetto style.
$3000 in wj and fb
$200 in sprayfoam?
$1072 for each run of 100'Ft 1" pex runs (insulation and sleeve, supply and return)
$500 in copper plumping (may be off here, havn't done any plumbing measuring yet)
$200 for an aquatstat from honeywell. (which makes the boiler automatic and efficient, so what if it's not fancy push button digital,and run 2 thermostats for failsafe from boilover...)
few dollars for some fiberglass rope for a airtight door seal.
few dollars for a heavy solenoid to flip the damper.
i have loads of tiny squirrel cage fans for a damper blower.
i have loads of 20x20 heat exchangers for the buildings. Enough to setup ontop of each furnace, then have 10 setup in series in each house to have radiant heat if desired.
dad has collected x35 1" ball valves in the past, all new... plenty to do a 4zone system. and setup for add-on/repairs without dumping the system.
i've collected 4 circulation pumps from where i work.
we have 9 rolls of mig wire someone gave us, they're 60lbs rolls.
If it gets fancy, may need zoning valves, or some temp reguatlors for something.
few dollars for probably 5 temp gauges.
some other odds and ends.
Besides that, am i missing anything? math not right? i think i'm in the ball park figure.
for digging the trenches, my shovel has hoses
figure i'd have it started in april and done and installed somewhere in october. working few hours everyweeknight, then working on weekends.
i guess 1.25" pex is needed for like 300'+ runs.
and a tech i talked to at centralboiler said only bury the centralpex 6-8" deep. sounds a bit shallow IMO. i was thinking at least 24" with like 8-12" of sand packed around it. i'll be working in a low water table maybe 20Ft above any standing ponds in the area.
One question though, the boiler is going to be above one house, and below another house. In theory couldn't i put the vent in the plumbing at the highest house? or just add a long pipe on the top of the boiler itself so it's higher then any point in the system? same solution right?.
Or i guess spend $16,000 on the 7260, and still need to buy more for the system.
In my opinion, even with the time and work involved, it's worth the savings, and in the end, 1 fire instead of 5, and the hazard is outside.
need to heat ~8000 sq ft. 3 buildings, 4 zones. one building might need 3 zones, the 2nd zone coming from heating the floor if i pour the floor with the plumbing in it.anyways...
first some values to work with
7.48 gallons in 1 cbft of displacement
Doing some quick math.
the cl5036 is using 31 cubic ft of firebox to heat 196 gallons of water, which is 26 cbft.
nice. except we don't know what size the waterjacket is. the wj needs to hold the water, plus the firebox. call 31 and 26 60 for easy math....
hmm, the 6048's fb is, 60 cbft. interesting. now the 7260, the fb is roughly 100 cbft. heating 764 gallons.
Doing some more quick math, back to the 5036, they're heating 196 gallon with 31 cbft of firebox. So, 196/31 is ~ 6.32. using 1 cbft of firebox to heat 6.3gallons of water. the 6048 is 6.33, and the 7260 is 7.64. the bigger one theyre trying to heat more water with the same firebox displacement.
SOO, i figured of making a 6x5x4 fb, which is ~ 120 cbft. and there's 102 Cbft in 764 gallons of water. so i need ~ 222 cbft of water jacket. A 7x6.5x5 works out to 225.
Doing some more scribbling and math. I figured i'd make my firebox and wj out 3/8" thick mild steel. Probably overkill, but, if i'm going to spend my time, may as well make it thicker. If we all follow the warranty rules, your stuff always breaks just after the warranty expries.
Once again, some more math work. 4x8 is 32sqft. i need 322sq ft. so figure 10 or 11 sheets. I can get 2nd's for $250 a sheet. Figure $3000 in steel. I have loads of tin skirting to put around it and make a roof so it doesn't look all ghetto style.
$3000 in wj and fb
$200 in sprayfoam?
$1072 for each run of 100'Ft 1" pex runs (insulation and sleeve, supply and return)
$500 in copper plumping (may be off here, havn't done any plumbing measuring yet)
$200 for an aquatstat from honeywell. (which makes the boiler automatic and efficient, so what if it's not fancy push button digital,and run 2 thermostats for failsafe from boilover...)
few dollars for some fiberglass rope for a airtight door seal.
few dollars for a heavy solenoid to flip the damper.
i have loads of tiny squirrel cage fans for a damper blower.
i have loads of 20x20 heat exchangers for the buildings. Enough to setup ontop of each furnace, then have 10 setup in series in each house to have radiant heat if desired.
dad has collected x35 1" ball valves in the past, all new... plenty to do a 4zone system. and setup for add-on/repairs without dumping the system.
i've collected 4 circulation pumps from where i work.
we have 9 rolls of mig wire someone gave us, they're 60lbs rolls.
If it gets fancy, may need zoning valves, or some temp reguatlors for something.
few dollars for probably 5 temp gauges.
some other odds and ends.
Besides that, am i missing anything? math not right? i think i'm in the ball park figure.
for digging the trenches, my shovel has hoses
figure i'd have it started in april and done and installed somewhere in october. working few hours everyweeknight, then working on weekends.
i guess 1.25" pex is needed for like 300'+ runs.
and a tech i talked to at centralboiler said only bury the centralpex 6-8" deep. sounds a bit shallow IMO. i was thinking at least 24" with like 8-12" of sand packed around it. i'll be working in a low water table maybe 20Ft above any standing ponds in the area.
One question though, the boiler is going to be above one house, and below another house. In theory couldn't i put the vent in the plumbing at the highest house? or just add a long pipe on the top of the boiler itself so it's higher then any point in the system? same solution right?.
Or i guess spend $16,000 on the 7260, and still need to buy more for the system.
In my opinion, even with the time and work involved, it's worth the savings, and in the end, 1 fire instead of 5, and the hazard is outside.
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