burning practices

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Deleted member 116684
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it's that time of year where I spend a bunch of my time reading on this site. I think I've learned almost all I know about fire wood and chainsaw here. So let me ask a question. What do you find to be the best method of burning wood for your stove? I know there are different types of stoves and possibly more than one way to do it. I have an Osburn 2200 insert if that helps.
 
hupte

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I find the best for me is to set it on fire.:)
no one likes a smart alec!! except me, a brother smart alec. lol.

best thing for me is to cut the logs into 10' lengths load em with the grapple bucket on the skid loader into the dump trailer. bring the load(s) home, dump em. then stack em with the skidder (when i get it home). then pull the logs off the pile with the skidder and prop em up on another log to keep the saw outta the dirt. cut the logs into rounds. then push the rounds into a pile, and then when the time comes throw the rounds into the owb. if they are bigger than 20" diameter i split them (by hand if I want the exercise) with the skid loader mounted splitter.

hence only touching the wood once.
 
Stihlofadeal64

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You may want to specify a little more about what you are asking. Are you asking about kindling, building your fire, stoking, mixing wood,
adjusting the draft; burning during the night? Just so we can help. Thanks for posting.
 
Deleted member 116684
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I do the raking and cleaning when I start a fire. I'm curious about draft control and the convection blower. About whether a big load of wood burned over a period of hours is better than small hot fires. that need tending. When you burn, do you turn the draft down all the way or do you leave it open halfway? Is there some magic balance between blower speed and daft control that puts out a good amount of heat without cooling the stove down too much? Those are the things I'm curious about, at least right now....
 
Zeus103363

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I find the best for me is to set it on fire.:)


Simple, and effective.

I was thinking... Haul a load of chainsaws to the woods. Cut wood, using all 15 chainsaws at least once. Return home with a load of saws, and a little wood. Fire up the $25,000 splitter. Split to appropriate size. Post up a couple photos on the "scrounging firewood" thread of today's haul of bad arse saws followed up by a "what kinda tree is this" thread. Wait at least one year to season wood, then, proudly set the wood in the insert or fireplace. Thinking proudly of the honor God has bestowed apon us all to make firewood with blood sweat and hard earned tears and then, only then may you set on fire!
 
unclemoustache

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I've got a smoke dragon - well, it was supposed to be a fairly efficient stove (Lopi Leyden), but it sort of morphed into a smoke dragon after a year or two when the insides began to fall apart and the darn thing never really worked right anyway. Anyway, in my big drafty house, I fire it up and let her run. I crack open the ash pan door when I start it or need more air, and keep it closed for a 'somewhat' controlled burn. Empty it out when the ashes get a few inches deep.
 
Ash_403

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When you burn, do you turn the draft down all the way or do you leave it open halfway? Is there some magic balance between blower speed and daft control that puts out a good amount of heat without cooling the stove down too much? Those are the things I'm curious about, at least right now....

Ummm, Yes.

Different stoves can have even minor differences in optimum operation. If you have time (a weekend, day off, etc.) experiment with your stove with the things you mentioned. It took me about half-way through the second year of burning with my I3100 before I truly 'got it down' right. Even to this day, I still make at least minor judgment calls when burning regarding draft control. Things such as wood species, size of splits, outside temperature affecting my draft....etc.

Best of luck.
 
Ambull01

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Burn in complete cycles and before recharging scoop out the ash and drag all the coals toward the front on a new style EPA stove .

What's the benefit of burning in complete cycles? I was thinking it may be best to keep the stove at secondary burn temperatures without causing an over fire.

Simple, and effective.

I was thinking... Haul a load of chainsaws to the woods. Cut wood, using all 15 chainsaws at least once. Return home with a load of saws, and a little wood. Fire up the $25,000 splitter. Split to appropriate size. Post up a couple photos on the "scrounging firewood" thread of today's haul of bad arse saws followed up by a "what kinda tree is this" thread. Wait at least one year to season wood, then, proudly set the wood in the insert or fireplace. Thinking proudly of the honor God has bestowed apon us all to make firewood with blood sweat and hard earned tears and then, only then may you set on fire!

lol. I was wondering how/why people needed so many chainsaws. Your explanation just cleared things up.
 
Sawdust inspector

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I prefer to shove as much in get the old farm house as warm as I can. Go thru lots of wood and have the excuse to use my saws to make many stumps and run my splitter many hours in the cold. Then the wife rewards me for working so much in the cold while she stays in a nice warm house.
 
Cerran

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it's that time of year where I spend a bunch of my time reading on this site. I think I've learned almost all I know about fire wood and chainsaw here. So let me ask a question. What do you find to be the best method of burning wood for your stove? I know there are different types of stoves and possibly more than one way to do it. I have an Osburn 2200 insert if that helps.

Like has been mentioned a typical loading cycle goes as follows:

With stove having a good coal bed:

1) Rake coals out of the way and remove ash first if you are at that stage.

2) Depending on stove rake coals to front of stove or to side

3) Load a couple smaller splits on the bottom and a few larger splits on top

4) Leave door cracked on some models or fully close door and open air controls full open

5) Allow wood to fully catch, ensure door is closed and allow wood to charcoal over partly ensuring it is fully caught

6) Incrementally turn down stove to the desired heat output

This of course assumes several things: Dry wood, good coal bed, multiple size splits. There will be variances depending on the wood type you burn and various other factors.
 
Deleted member 116684
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Like has been mentioned a typical loading cycle goes as follows:

With stove having a good coal bed:

1) Rake coals out of the way and remove first if you are at that stage.

2) Depending on stove rake coals to front of stove or to side

3) Load a couple smaller splits on the bottom and a few larger splits on top

4) Leave door cracked on some models or fully close door and open air controls full open

5) Allow wood to fully catch, ensure door is closed and allow wood to charcoal over partly ensuring it is fully caught

6) Incrementally turn down stove to the desired heat output

This of course assumes several things: Dry wood, good coal bed, multiple size splits. There will be variances depending on the wood type you burn and various other factors.

Thanks for the advice. I never really think about number three so I'll try it tonight
 
CTYank

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I do the raking and cleaning when I start a fire. I'm curious about draft control and the convection blower. About whether a big load of wood burned over a period of hours is better than small hot fires. that need tending. When you burn, do you turn the draft down all the way or do you leave it open halfway? Is there some magic balance between blower speed and daft control that puts out a good amount of heat without cooling the stove down too much? Those are the things I'm curious about, at least right now....

The big load burn is a convenience factor- set it and forget it once it lights. It'll burn down slowly and the coals will hang around a while, like until breakfast.

OTOH, small fires with small loads and more air than an overnight setting can keep the stove from filling up with coals, since they will be more aggressively burned. Don't want to choke on the coals. :D

About over-cooling the stove, IME a stove with a properly insulated firebox, once up to temp, can keep things clean. I watch a thermometer on the flue just above the stovetop a foot or so. With my stove, temp of 250 F or above there, no problem.
 

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