Burnt Leaves?!?

[Dan F]

If you can scratch the bark and the cambium layer underneath is still green, then the branch is still alive.

It sounds like the lower branches are still viable. I'd check the top branches, if they are no longer alive, then I'd probably replace the tree with something else. Most likely, it won't be worth the time or effort to try to train a new tree from a dead top, and it will never look right.

Raising it so the root flare is at or slightly above ground level will NEVER hurt a tree, as long as it is dormant or nearly so.

Good luck.


Dan

 

[jon-w9]

Alright, I will do the scratch test again to check, if the top is dying then I will replace in the spring.

As for replanting, is now OK, or should I wait another 2-4 weeks?


Edit: I did some further searching, and it looks like it is fire blight. The leaves look like it, although I didn't see the shepards crook. I don't see the cankers or white ooze the some sites say. i will probably be best removing the tree this fall, just in case it is blight and it tries to spread to the other trees.

Although I did read that Bradford pears are supposed to be blight resistan or tolerant? Whaich is true, yes or no?

 

[DadF]

Just because a species or variety is said to be resistant or tolerant doesn't mean that it can't get it . Just like having boots that are sold as being water resistant- that doesn't mean that thay are water proof. Submerge 'em in a puddle while your wearing 'em and your feet are probably gonna get wet. The same thing goes for resistant plants-they can effectively ward off the typical attacks of diseases but put them in an environment that is exactly what the attacker needs and the tree is going to have problems. Especially if the tree is under stress ie. newly planted.
I really think at this point that if the just planted tree is showing that many problems it is time to get rid of it and start over. Just don't forget the lessons learned when looking for another tree!!

 

[jon-w9]

So, it the tree has fire blight, can I dig it out and put another in it's place, or will that just reansfer the blight? What about the mulch?

Should I remove the old tree, dirt and mulch and just use the whole again? Should I spray the area to prevent transferring?

I hope to do this this weekend, so any help would be appreciated.

 

[DadF]

What are you going to put back in? If I remember right Fire blight is an air born problem not in the soil.

 

[bushman]

Originally posted by DadF
What are you going to put back in? If I remember right Fire blight is an air born problem not in the soil.

Yes, I agree that fireblight is airborn and not soil-born. I don't think it matters what it's replaced with, but I would really try for anything other than B. Pear since they are a nuissance tree and break under any kind of stress ( wind, rain, snow, ice) FYI: The streptomycin spray is applied on the new flush of growth in the spring to plants with a history of fireblight so a treatment now is moot. I like Chinese Pistache trees and I like Nyssa sylvatica aka Black Tupelo. If you must have a pear, then try Cleveland Select or Chanticleer varieties. Do you have to use a flowering tree? Good Luck!
Bushman's wife- Liz

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by bushman
FYI: The streptomycin spray is applied on the new flush of growth in the spring to plants with a history of fireblight so a treatment now is moot.

Actually, cutting back below the infection (some say 2' below black leaves but that is overkill), then spraying the rest of the tree will stop the spread of the disease, at least it does in NC.
Some say disinfecting between cuts isn't needed, but I say why not do it, it, might help stop spread. Liz was describing the preventative program, not the curative program.

My 2 cents on bradfords; they can live longer if they're pruned and supported; it has its place despite structural issues. nOt that I'd buy one, though.

 

[jon-w9]

Originally posted by bushman
Yes, I agree that fireblight is airborn and not soil-born. I don't think it matters what it's replaced with, but I would really try for anything other than B. Pear since they are a nuissance tree and break under any kind of stress ( wind, rain, snow, ice) FYI: The streptomycin spray is applied on the new flush of growth in the spring to plants with a history of fireblight so a treatment now is moot. I like Chinese Pistache trees and I like Nyssa sylvatica aka Black Tupelo. If you must have a pear, then try Cleveland Select or Chanticleer varieties. Do you have to use a flowering tree? Good Luck!
Bushman's wife- Liz

Thanks for the info. My plan is to actually take the 3rd B. pear and move it to where the troubled one is, and replace that with something else. Thank you all once again for all of your help.

 

[jon-w9]

Originally posted by bushman
FYI: The streptomycin spray is applied on the new flush of growth in the spring to plants with a history of fireblight so a treatment now is moot.

Ok, I ave moved the trees around as stated in my earlier posts. nOw next spring I would like to spray to prevent this from occuring again. This "streptomycin" spray, is this something I can get (Home depot, Lowes, etc) or something I need to have professionally applied?

 

[Stumper]

In the upside down and backward world of modern America, you can't buy streptomyacin unless you are A. a licensed Pharmacist B. a Full time ,registered, agricultural producer. C. a licensed pesticide applicator. -That is the situation in Colorado as I understand it. You can , of course waltz into the local store and purchase all sorts of highly toxic chemicals but Big Brother doesn't trust you with antibiotics.

FWIW local apple orchards have been moving away from streptomycin(which is very expensive) back to the old bordeaux mixture. There have been some recent university studies citing similar effectiveness in fireblight control.

 

[DadF]

Hmmm...I thought that bordeaux mix had been taken off the market?

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by DadF
Hmmm...I thought that bordeaux mix had been taken off the market?

Well then, you cna mix your own. But applying it prophylactically runs against PHC; better to monitor and treat symptoms than drench to avoid problems. I thought we were getting away from that.

 

[jon-w9]

I found a recipe on-line to make my own, but I do not know where to find the 2 main ingerdients. Once again, is this something available through large stores through another name, or something I have to get at some sort of specialty shop?

 

[Guy Meilleur]

monitor, diagnose then treat. Sanitation first, then shop for agri-mycin to treat. Spraying w/o symptoms is wrong with this disease. See www.treesaregood, "Plant Health Care"