Buying a used chainsaw ...
- Thread starter wavefreak
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Gab250
ArboristSite Operative
Here's a few things I would check when buying a used chainsaw, I'm no expert, but I'm sure other members will share their advice too.
1) Make sure the fuel mix looks and smells OK
2) Make sure the saw appears Generally clean and in good condition
3) I'd make sure that the chain is oiling properly, if not, the chain could be damaged and I'm sure it'd put more stress on components like engine bearings etc too, but a common cause of it not oiling correctly could just be blocked oil channels in the bar.
4) It'd be nice to know a bit of history about the saw and it's use
5) Check to see that the chain is sharp, a poorly sharpened chain will have put more stress on every single part of the saw, and the bar as well, and a sharp chain is a good sign that the saw has been well maintained
6) Also check that the air filter is clean, again, another sign that it has been well maintained.
Just my 2c,
Gab
1) Make sure the fuel mix looks and smells OK
2) Make sure the saw appears Generally clean and in good condition
3) I'd make sure that the chain is oiling properly, if not, the chain could be damaged and I'm sure it'd put more stress on components like engine bearings etc too, but a common cause of it not oiling correctly could just be blocked oil channels in the bar.
4) It'd be nice to know a bit of history about the saw and it's use
5) Check to see that the chain is sharp, a poorly sharpened chain will have put more stress on every single part of the saw, and the bar as well, and a sharp chain is a good sign that the saw has been well maintained
6) Also check that the air filter is clean, again, another sign that it has been well maintained.
Just my 2c,
Gab
nmurph
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2007
- Messages
- 16,162
- Reaction score
- 7,166
those are good things to do and should be done. and although they CAN give an indication of the maintenance a saw has received, they can also be quickly fixed and lead to a wrong impression of a saw.
when i am buying a "running" saw in person i do the following in addition to looking at the fuel, filter and cleanliness:
-pull the muffler and look at the condition of the piston andcylinder.
-do a compression check.
-check to see how easily the saw starts from both a cold and warm condition.
-listen to see that the saw has an even idle.
-tip the saw from side to side while it is running and listen for changes in idle.
-rev the saw and listen for the four stroke to make sure it has been being run in a correct state of tune.
-tip the saw from side to side while it is running as higher revs to see if the saw stumbles.
-if the idle rpm is correct, does the chain spin?
-look at the bar for indications that it has been run hard without proper oiling. a little bluing is no big deal, but if the whole bar looks blued it would definitely raise a caution flag to me.
when i am buying a "running" saw in person i do the following in addition to looking at the fuel, filter and cleanliness:
-pull the muffler and look at the condition of the piston andcylinder.
-do a compression check.
-check to see how easily the saw starts from both a cold and warm condition.
-listen to see that the saw has an even idle.
-tip the saw from side to side while it is running and listen for changes in idle.
-rev the saw and listen for the four stroke to make sure it has been being run in a correct state of tune.
-tip the saw from side to side while it is running as higher revs to see if the saw stumbles.
-if the idle rpm is correct, does the chain spin?
-look at the bar for indications that it has been run hard without proper oiling. a little bluing is no big deal, but if the whole bar looks blued it would definitely raise a caution flag to me.
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't buy a big saw on E-bay unless you plan on fixing one. Most of the big saws on the bay are clapped out reguardless of how they look.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Take a few things with you: Compression tester, scrench, fuel mix, and all of the tools needed to remove the muffler.
First up, Pick up the saw by the starter handle, and see if it has decent compression. Search "drop test" on here for more info.
Second, pull muffler and see if the piston is scored.
Third, remove air filter and see if there is any sawdust or foreign material inside the filter or carb throat.
If either of the last two is encountered, the saw is probably going to need some work.
I usually do the compression test on a saw I am buying after running it. If I am selling it, I do the compression test before running it.
At some point you need to pull the clutch cover, and try to wobble the output end of the crankshaft. If it has noticable play back and forth in it, you'll be into a fairly expensive repair. Usually the clutch side bearing goes first, so you can take a chance that the flywheel side one is OK without pulling the recoil starter. If the chain is banjo-string tight, pay careful attention to this area. While you are inside the bar cover, check the oiler cavity, and the oiler holes in the bar. If the saw is being advertised as "oiler not working" you need to be careful not to fix it, lest the price go up, but check to see what is going on with the oiler system anyway.
If the saw is suposed to be a runner, I have the owner start it for me, and note what they do. "Snatching" at the cord = needs new pawls and starter spool. If it is suposed to be a runner, and there is convienently no gas in it, I just happen to have brought some with me...... I always dump out P.O. gas as soon as I get home anyway. (Briggs 4-stroke engines love garbage gas.) Now run it, and see how she runs and oils. If all is well, make offer and go from there.
First up, Pick up the saw by the starter handle, and see if it has decent compression. Search "drop test" on here for more info.
Second, pull muffler and see if the piston is scored.
Third, remove air filter and see if there is any sawdust or foreign material inside the filter or carb throat.
If either of the last two is encountered, the saw is probably going to need some work.
I usually do the compression test on a saw I am buying after running it. If I am selling it, I do the compression test before running it.
At some point you need to pull the clutch cover, and try to wobble the output end of the crankshaft. If it has noticable play back and forth in it, you'll be into a fairly expensive repair. Usually the clutch side bearing goes first, so you can take a chance that the flywheel side one is OK without pulling the recoil starter. If the chain is banjo-string tight, pay careful attention to this area. While you are inside the bar cover, check the oiler cavity, and the oiler holes in the bar. If the saw is being advertised as "oiler not working" you need to be careful not to fix it, lest the price go up, but check to see what is going on with the oiler system anyway.
If the saw is suposed to be a runner, I have the owner start it for me, and note what they do. "Snatching" at the cord = needs new pawls and starter spool. If it is suposed to be a runner, and there is convienently no gas in it, I just happen to have brought some with me...... I always dump out P.O. gas as soon as I get home anyway. (Briggs 4-stroke engines love garbage gas.) Now run it, and see how she runs and oils. If all is well, make offer and go from there.
Gab250
ArboristSite Operative
They are all good ideas, I will check my chainsaw for scoring on the side of the piston too. This is probably a dumb question, but I'm not entirely sure what a "scrench" is, I think it is the wrench used to undo the sprocket cover, spark plug, and has a screwdriver on the end, but I'm not sure, if so, I normally call it a bar wrench.
Cheers, Gab
CentaurG2
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just bring a good size piece of wood to cut. You will know in 2 seconds if the saw is whipped. Look the saw over for any modifications from factory including mufflers, dogs, handlebars and chainbars. If you find one, don’t even bother to start it, just walk away.
Modern used two stroke equipment is always a gamble. I will seldom pay more than salvage value for any used two stroke in any condition. If it turns out to be frenchtoast, just pop it up onto ebay and you are out nothing more than your time. When you buy new, you do pay more but you get a warrantee and the knowledge that you know exactly where and what has happen to this piece of equipment.
When you rely on equipment to make you money, new is often much more cost effective in the long run. If you are a hobby cutter or you just want to learn to do the two stroke twiddle, equipment downtime may not trump price. Collectors of dinosaurs and their bleached bones fall way beyond my radar scope. If you are after a relic, you are on your own. Good luck and use some common sense. If something just don’t feel right, bail! Plenty more saws out in that ocean.
Modern used two stroke equipment is always a gamble. I will seldom pay more than salvage value for any used two stroke in any condition. If it turns out to be frenchtoast, just pop it up onto ebay and you are out nothing more than your time. When you buy new, you do pay more but you get a warrantee and the knowledge that you know exactly where and what has happen to this piece of equipment.
When you rely on equipment to make you money, new is often much more cost effective in the long run. If you are a hobby cutter or you just want to learn to do the two stroke twiddle, equipment downtime may not trump price. Collectors of dinosaurs and their bleached bones fall way beyond my radar scope. If you are after a relic, you are on your own. Good luck and use some common sense. If something just don’t feel right, bail! Plenty more saws out in that ocean.
alderman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Personally if I were the seller I'd be hard pressed to let some yahoo show up and start tearing my saw apart. I'd have no problem with running it or doing a compression check.
wavefreak
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah. I thought telling some guy I wanted to take parts off might be looked at a bit strange. But if I asked you do it would you? Surely you trust yourself.
Paul001
Addicted to ArboristSite
Depends on the saw. On the used saws I sell, I list the vac/pressure/compression, give the buyer 10 days, etc.
If he's buying a saw I have $200 into for $250, sorry, I'm not spending the time. Picking up a $500 saw that I have $150 into, sure. I'd have to add, if I needed to get rid of the saw, didn't know that much about it and the only way the buyer was giving me close to what I wanted was to let him "check it out"...most likely.
Fortunately, I'm not in that position.
wavefreak
Addicted to ArboristSite
You probably aren't typical. If you gave me 10 days, I wouldn't feel half has much pressure to decide right then. I've basically decided I won't buy anything on eBay or Craig's list unless it close enough where I can go see it. I'm willing to by a used saw from a dealer. We have an Elite Stihl dealer close by. Does that Elite mean anything or is it just fancy marketing?
Paul001
Addicted to ArboristSite
Has meaning to the customer and dealer.
You have to hit a set dollar amount per year. Carry the full line of equipment. Stock a min. of Parts. Sell a set percentage of Stihl bar/chain/oils/etc.
For the customer that means a dealership that should have what you are looking for. More importantly, that dealership is required to have a Gold Certified Mech. on staff.
There are also additional discounts given, etc. But those are the high points.
I give the customer 10 days warranty on the saw (personal sales). Company we handle a little differently, but we've never had a customer have a saw failure that should have been taken care of before hand, that wasn't just fixed.
wavefreak
Addicted to ArboristSite
I guess I'm conflicted about new or used. If It wasn't a budget issue I have to wonder. A 2 year warranty on a new saw is no small thing. If I get a used one, it's going to need service. One major service in two years and any savings could be shot as I currently don't do that work myself. If it take proper care of a new saw, it should last me many years. And so far, I haven't seen too many low hours 660's that would save me a ton of money.
FWIW, I need this to use with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. Weekend warrior, not full time pro.
FWIW, I need this to use with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. Weekend warrior, not full time pro.
mikefunaro
Addicted to ArboristSite
Most 394s and 395s that I see on the bay or CL have been WORKED. Very seldom do I see one here in the northeast advertised near new. And if they are near new, the price tag usually reflects it. Same thing for 660s and 066s. Saws of that class seem to get bought more by pros and less by weekend saw enthusiasts, and when pros buy saws, they buy them to use them.
You do see a fair amount of 3120s for fairly decent prices. There's one on CL up by Hartford for $800 in good shape. Still a lot of money, but for a saw that is a minimum of $1400 OTD of a dealer on a good day, pretty decent deal. I'd forget about an 880. I've seen so few and they have been $$$$$
You do see a fair amount of 3120s for fairly decent prices. There's one on CL up by Hartford for $800 in good shape. Still a lot of money, but for a saw that is a minimum of $1400 OTD of a dealer on a good day, pretty decent deal. I'd forget about an 880. I've seen so few and they have been $$$$$
mikefunaro
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe I've just been lucky but I think the seller themselves can tell you a lot, even in what they don't say. I've done a large number of CL transactions (mostly not saws) and it's not too hard to catch someone in a lie or embellishment. Ask the same question again and again in different ways, for example. If the saw looks clean, and hasn't been toasted, it's probably a pretty decent saw. A test cut confirms this. You're always taking a chance buying used, but you can reduce your risk of getting ripped. Eliminate it? I don't think so...
Paul001
Addicted to ArboristSite
I might know a customer who's about to unload 2-4 660's. All have new P/C's, seals, rebuilt carbs, etc.
I suspect he'll be selling them in the 500 range. Send me a PM and if he does put them up for sale, I"ll get you his contact information.
I suspect he'll be selling them in the 500 range. Send me a PM and if he does put them up for sale, I"ll get you his contact information.
Brmorgan
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2008
- Messages
- 3,248
- Reaction score
- 348
I also might have a line on a good-looking 066. If I do pick it up and it checks out OK I'll keep you in mind. I don't need another right now!
rwood8600
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a secondhand MS 660 and it does not idle evenly. Should I be overly worried?
